Technical Timing on the 965cc

Currently reading:
Technical Timing on the 965cc

Joined
Jan 11, 2008
Messages
1,167
Points
330
Location
shropshire
General question on ignition timing on this engine,

How the hell do you do it, or check it? you cant rotate the dizzy, there is no vac on the dizzy for advance and retard.

The only thing I seem like I can check is the points gap (which I have)

Does any one have any experience with this pushrod block.
 
Isn't the block pretty much the same as the 903cc one? On my 900 panda it has the shaft driven distributer with splines inside so you loosen the nut that clamps dizzy in then you lift the dizzy out, rotate as required then slide it back in and tighten the clamp
 
Greetings, tis most easy to adjust timing on these. No vacuum advance just mechanical advance inside the dizzy.

As already mentioned you rotate the dizzy itself in the block. Just slightly loosen the nut which clamps it on the block. Don't need to remove it, just enough to allow movement. Ideally loosen it enough that it is possible to rotate by hand but also that it stays in that position when you take your hand off as it's less likely for the timing to change when you tighten it.

So anyway the dizzy is loose now, and then you'll need to get a timing light as you won't be able to set it right without that. Point the light into the inspection hole in the top of the gearbox bell housing and adjust until the marker on the flywheel is roughly in line with the centre mark on the gearbox. I think this equates to 5° advance which should be set at idle (the engine will need to be warm to be set properly as otherwise you'll set it wrong for lower engine speeds). Check also that it increases this angle when you rev so you know the advance is working properly.

If you're setting this up from scratch:

remove the dizzy completely then put the engine to TDC (check the marker on the flywheel is visible within the window on the bell housing) and point the rotor arm so it fires at the number 1 spark plug; you can check on the dizzy cap but basically it points at the plastic block which the points attach to (where the slot is on the dizzy cap). Put the dizzy back into the block and secure making sure the rotor arm doesn't turn.
That will get the engine set to 0 degree advance so you'll have to do some tweaking from here to get it to fire up.
It's easier if you have someone turn the engine over while you fine tune that but you can turn the key and rotate the dizzy if you have the door open :devil:the wonders of small cars!

Once it's fired up and running let it stabilise for a few seconds and then start to retard the ignition (engine will decrease in speed) until it starts to run rough a bit and go back a bit to make sure it runs smooth. Let the engine warm up in that position (should be a safe ignition timing to do this with) and then re-set the timing as described above when the engine is at normal operating conditions.

Hope that helps!
Si
 
Last edited:
this is how the haynes manual would be if it was written by people with no life like me...far too many hours spent under a panda bonnet. :eek:

That is the trouble though, the mk1 is so rare and the information around is so sketchy can be very difficult to work out how to do things. Mostly the 903 engine stuff is right, but not always and that helps to put doubt in judgements. :rolleyes:

Let me know if you need any more help Sam; maybe I'll write a manual for the car at some point (including work-arounds for the difficult to get bits) :slayer:

Also I am with you on your carburettor woe's...that twin choke thing is a disaster with age. Shame as it's great when it works / was new :eek:
 
Yeah even though it's fairly simple mechanics a Haynes manual can make things sound twice as difficult. Ideally we need more guides creating for a wider range of jobs. Hint hint to anybody with time on their hands :)
 
Back
Top