Technical  Strut mount mitigation & replacement

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Technical  Strut mount mitigation & replacement

lycopersicum

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Hello everyone,

My front right wheel (passenger side) has started making clunking noises every 20 degrees or so when steering, including when dry steering. The van still handles fine. The local mechanic has no availability but he had a quick look and says it's the strut mount seizing and causing the coil to move jerkily.

He says it's safe to drive back to my usual mechanic. If he were going to be doing the job he would push to change the whole strut on both sides, shock and coil and all, because of the labour involved.

Question 1: I don't like unnecessary expenses. Thoughts on replacing just the mounts? They cost the same as 2 hours of labour here vs. 5+ hours-equivalent for the whole strut.

Question 2: I thought of trying to spray some lubricant and grease onto the mount and coil either from the glove box of from the wheel well, is that possible and would it mitigate the issue until I can get it fixed?
 
Model
2.3
Year
2013
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Hello everyone,

My front right wheel (passenger side) has started making clunking noises every 20 degrees or so when steering, including when dry steering. The van still handles fine. The local mechanic has no availability but he had a quick look and says it's the strut mount seizing and causing the coil to move jerkily.

He says it's safe to drive back to my usual mechanic. If he were going to be doing the job he would push to change the whole strut on both sides, shock and coil and all, because of the labour involved.

Question 1: I don't like unnecessary expenses. Thoughts on replacing just the mounts? They cost the same as 2 hours of labour here vs. 5+ hours-equivalent for the whole strut.

Question 2: I thought of trying to spray some lubricant and grease onto the mount and coil either from the glove box of from the wheel well, is that possible and would it mitigate the issue until I can get it fixed?
Strut mounts are a common issue on many vehicles, if no other problems with struts then I would tend to just do just the mounts.
If you can get oil into bearing area of mounts it may help for a short while, not WD40 as to thin, more like engine oil from a proper oil can.
Note if mount left siezed it will probably cause spring to break etc.
 
I did this job last year myself on my 2013 Ducato MultiJet 130:




I would say the job was probably more on the difficult side being a bit finicky in removing the strut. Over here in NZ parts are rather expensive. I had the strut mounts brought over from Canada as they were much cheaper when using Dodge Pro Master part # off eBay. They were identical fit too. The struts alone, I paid $80 NZD at a suspension and shock shop to safely mount both strut mounts after testing each strut. The shop said the struts are still in perfect condition. So while for convenience it may be faster to replace with an entire new strut assembly, you are going to pay for it as they're not cheap brand new.

No spraying lube or adding grease won't fix the problem. What happens (YouTube video) shows that the holders for the ball bearings disintegrates in the strut mount, quite often the steel balls fall out, and you get that grinding noise when turning the steering wheel.
 
No spraying lube or adding grease won't fix the problem. What happens (YouTube video) shows that the holders for the ball bearings disintegrates in the strut mount, quite often the steel balls fall out, and you get that grinding noise when turning the steering wheel.
When fitting new top strut mounts, or changing shock absorbers or springs etc. I always try to get a little extra grease around the bearings in the top mounts of any vehicle I am working on as they are often a bit mean with lubrication from new.
I fortunately have a hydraulic spring compressor to make the job easier.
I only suggested the lubrication as a stop gap until new parts fitted to ease the movement, not as a cure/fix obviously, otherwise there is a danger of the coil spring breaking due to not being able to rotate with the mounting.;)
 
Thanks to both, I have an appointment the coming week with a mechanic who's open to changing only what needs changing, and I'll push to keep the original struts if possible as I've been bitten by cheap aftermarket parts before.
 
Got it done last week, they changed only the bearing. I took the old bearing apart and found it completely dry, no sign of any sort of lubricant in there.

Pins, race and retainer ring all in one piece but seized with rusty metal chips that look like they have spalled from the upper race.

IMG_3325.jpeg
IMG_3327.jpeg
 
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Got it done last week, they changed only the bearing. I took the old bearing apart and found it completely dry, no sign of any sort of lubricant in there.

Pins, race and retainer ring all in one piece but seized with rusty metal chips that look like they have spalled from the upper race.

View attachment 482062View attachment 482063
You can see why I put a dollop of extra grease in them when I fit those mounts.:)
 
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