Technical Stop / Start Unavailable Engine Check

Currently reading:
Technical Stop / Start Unavailable Engine Check

JayneMcG

New member
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
5
Points
1
Hi, bought a 64 reg Fiat 500 4 months ago. Had problem with power steering becoming heavy after two months so garage checked and fitted new alternator in December. Now today, audible 'beep' sounded and then display shows 'Engine Check Stop / Start Unavailable' at which point the car goes into 'crawl' mode and won't go above 5 mph. Turned off the engine, restarted it but after 3 to 4 minutes it all happened again. Garage checked diagnostics and it told them something about an inlet manifold issue. They reset it, I drive away but it happened again. Any ideas please? Is this a battery problem?
 
There sounds to be more than one issue going on, I would suggest a new battery and earth strap going to the engine as a start as I suspect the steering issue is this even though it's not present now.
The limp mode and warning light is a far more serious issue it indicates that the computer thinks engine damage possible hence limp mode, it can be triggered by a simple sensor fault cam or crank sensor say ?
Have someone with correct fiat software to see what's up?
When or has the timing belt been replaced?
Ignore the stop start warning
No a new battery won't fix this issue but maybe a politic replacement
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the suggestions. Am in the South Manchester Area. Garage checked inlet manifold ; couldn't find issue and reset diagnostics. Now seems to be driving alright. To John 202020, not sure if timing belt has ever been replaced but what do you mean by 'politic replacement' please?
Really appreciate everyone's quick reply!
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Am in the South Manchester Area. Garage checked inlet manifold ; couldn't find issue and reset diagnostics. Now seems to be driving alright. To John 202020, not sure if timing belt has ever been replaced but what do you mean by 'politic replacement' please?
Really appreciate everyone's quick reply!

Hi "if" the battery is the original then its way past its best and even if its been replaced could easily be 3+ years old, therefore it may be a good idea to replace it if its in any doubt of condition? Modern cars are extremely sensitive to poor battery performance, so if its in very poor condition it may flag power steering(which is electrically powered) problems? As too could be a failed earth strap leading to low charging and lack of electrical power?( sometimes wrongly diagnosed as alternator failure?, its not broken just can't charge due to a lack of a good earth to the body/battery)
The earth strap under the battery tray to the engine is a known failure weakness( it may look OK but isn't) ?

Its ESSENTIAL that the timing belt has been replaced now at 7 years old, if it cannot be confirmed that its been done in the last few years then it must be assumed that its not been replaced, and should be, if it snaps say good bye to the engine.
 
Last edited:
Any idea what diagnosis software the garage used? MES is the fiat specific software and the one we all use on here! Glad your car is driving well however your problem “may” arise again if it does ..... the software is available on the official MES website it costs €50 yes euros! Then you just need a set of the official cables to run on your laptop.. then you can save yourself ££!!

A year ago if you had said MES to me I would have said EH! ?? now I can diagnose in my sleep!
On a serious note ... if you want to look after your car it’s worth it! We are all here to help .......
 
'Morning Typecastboy, hope you and yours are keeping well?

I'm really only intimately familiar with the FIRE engines and I'm puzzled by the referral to the "dreaded inlet manifold"? Can I trouble you to explain about this to me? Thanks.

Prot refering the the thread he posted a few weeks ago where he a had a lot of trouble removing one from.the car due to poor access to the nuts

Edit this one

https://www.fiatforum.com/500/484136-ideas-get-nut-undone.html
 
Last edited:
Just a wee "heads up" on the subject of solutions when tackling damaged hex heads. Some time ago, when I bought "Hooligan" - my very powerful pneumatic impact wrench - I realized that I needed to buy a decent set of deep impact sockets because my standard bright chrome ones were unlikely to withstand the forces.

I came across "Lock On" sockets which I'd never before heard of and as there wasn't much of a price difference between them and just standard single hex ones I decided to go with the Lock On ones - not really believing they would actually make all that much difference when it really came down to it. At the end of the day I bought Bergen Xi-On branded ones as I've got some Bergen stuff already and it seems to be good.

The big feature of all these Lock On types is that they have grooves milled into the inside of every second face. Here's a close up of one of the Bergens:

P1090586.JPG

P1090588.JPG

The idea is that, as long as there is a vestige of a flat left on the hex you are trying to drive, it will dig in and raise an edge it can bite into. I really was very sceptical about this but it really does work. Here's a video which pretty much demonstrates what I've experienced with mine (although he bought the Sealey branded product. Same thing different brand name) If this subject really interests you do watch the video right through (it's a bit long winded at the start as he rather goes "off on one" about an adaptable socket before getting on to the Lock On sockets):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJMTD_OR3RQ
When used on undamaged fixings they don't seem to leave any marks on the hexs, just work like a normal single hex socket.
 
I remember when my Wife’s 500 battery gave up the ghost. We had driven for about 1/2 hour before so you would think the battery would be charged, but when we got back in the car after a quick stop the car wouldn’t start. The Battery was completely gone and couldn’t hold a charge. We jump started the car, but even turning the steering wheel caused it to conk out. They use electric powered steering not hydraulic power so the extra demand on the failing battery was too much.

Nothing was wrong with the alternator and once a new battery was fitted everything worked as normal.

So many things rely on the Battery in modern cars that when it goes it can cause strange things to happen.

I’m not saying it’s definitely your battery, but it is 6 years old now. Go somewhere like Halfords and ask them to do a free battery check to see if it’s part of the problem.
 
From my own personal experience the quality of your battery is important (to me anyway)
I bought a brand new Halfords battery (stop/start) it was ok ish for about six months then my SS started being flakey .. I struggled on for another Six months but when my SS completely disappeared I went to Halfords for a battery test ... it was normal “a good battery” they said after a few more months & some reading up I bought a varta agm SS battery and I’ve not had a problem since! SS works every time except when heater on full or window de mister on!
 
Thanks all for your comments (Especially John 202020 and Baglady1990) and yes, it has just happened again after driving well for a few days..... Don't know what diagnostics software the local garage used.
Can you advise the correct link for the MES software please?
I've also sent a message to the FailsworthFiatSpares site (Thanks Al D)
Note : We don't use the start/stop function normally ; we disable it using the button on the dashboard. Could that be causing an issue?
Thanks again everyone!
 
Thanks all for your comments (Especially John 202020 and Baglady1990) and yes, it has just happened again after driving well for a few days..... Don't know what diagnostics software the local garage used.
Can you advise the correct link for the MES software please?
I've also sent a message to the FailsworthFiatSpares site (Thanks Al D)
Note : We don't use the start/stop function normally ; we disable it using the button on the dashboard. Could that be causing an issue?
Thanks again everyone!



this is the official page you will just need the registered version & a set of cables to run from your laptop to car the port on the car is under the little tray just to the right below steering wheel (it gently pulls off) https://www.multiecuscan.net/
 
this is the official page you will just need the registered version & a set of cables to run from your laptop to car the port on the car is under the little tray just to the right below steering wheel (it gently pulls off) https://www.multiecuscan.net/



do you know if they checked the engine earth strap? its such an important little thing! and it it fails.... the car basically wont run or it buggers stuff up! 10 mins to swap one out too!
 
Thanks. Don't think the earth strap has been changed so I'll get that done. Also, my brother came over yesterday afternoon (lives close by, stayed socially distanced) and plugged in his diagnostics box and it came up with the attached fault P0101.20210214_150510.jpg. Mass or Volume Air Flow A
Circuit Range / Performance.
Once again, really appreciate everyone's comments/assistance!!
 
Thanks. Don't think the earth strap has been changed so I'll get that done. Also, my brother came over yesterday afternoon (lives close by, stayed socially distanced) and plugged in his diagnostics box and it came up with the attached fault P0101.View attachment 215631. Mass or Volume Air Flow A
Circuit Range / Performance.
Once again, really appreciate everyone's comments/assistance!!
Oh dear it's another code reader that is not speaking fiat.

Listen to baglady get MES it will give you the full code and tell you what that code indicates.

That code on generic code readers has come up on the forum several times recently leading people way down the wrong path.

Best wishes

Jack
 
Back
Top