Technical Stilo Tappets.

[Argonought]

:hm:Reusing oil is not a good idea as it picks up contaminants from the lubrication system chuck it away and put fresh oil in everytime it aint worth it for £25

Doesn't make a lot of sense to me

You'd through away the oil you've only just put in and paid £40 for (say) but then replace for some cheap oil at £25

As long as you're careful (best when outside of engine is clean) then re-using oil you've only just put in is perfectly feasible.

Although is still better to avoid doing if you can

 

[ROWENA]

selenia oil £25 for 5 litres from "a friend" to reuse oil you would have to put it through a 10 micron filter to ensure it's clean but the filter will cost more than the oil

 

[Argonought]

....to reuse oil you would have to put it through a 10 micron filter to ensure it's clean but the filter will cost more than the oil

Perhaps you'd like to explain

If you take the care I've outlined then unless you're thinking of sprinkling some sand or other rubbish into it then exactly how is it going to get dirty in a matter of days

 

[ROWENA]

:hm:Reusing oil is not a good idea as it picks up contaminants from the lubrication system chuck it away and put fresh oil in everytime it aint worth it for £25

pretty self explanitory Argo there is ALWAYS some debris and combustion deposits in the lube system even after flushing I repair aero engines (both jet and piston) which are serviced regularly and to say they are dirty is an understatment the most common fault we get are destroyed bearings caused by lube starvation (crap in the oilways and pipework) hope this explains my coments better

 

[Argonought]

pretty self explanitory Argo there is ALWAYS some debris and combustion deposits in the lube system even after flushing I repair aero engines (both jet and piston) which are serviced regularly and to say they are dirty is an understatment the most common fault we get are destroyed bearings caused by lube starvation (crap in the oilways and pipework) hope this explains my coments better

I guess in the aero industry you would be considered a little mad using anything but fresh oil but speaking for myself (remember I could easily be looking at £50 for a fresh fill of Castrol Edge 0W-30 ) I wouldn't hesitate to re-use the same oil if I'd only put it in say a week ago (but perhaps not if say older than 6 months :chin.

What comes out should be the same as what goes back in after all

Cleanliness would be important of course (as already said) especially when removing drain plug although, there again, if the plug & washer were only replaced a week ago then you'd expect it to still be clean

 

[PNL]

selenia oil £25 for 5 litres from "a friend"

Then I would suggest he is not a friend my little welsh buddy cos thats the same price i pay for it at my dealer ..I would agree with the comment you have made though about not reuseing the oil ..

 

[12[X]]

oil in the sump would be contaminated (from fine particles erm grit to, possibly, metal shavings etc.) this is why it changes colour and is never put on engine parts without being filtered (also, heavier bits might pull at the bottom of the sump). I don't see any issues reusing the oil if you filer it (even using a cheap setup with the old oil filter to do the filtering) or put it in directly into the sump (have a look at our American friends.. tube into the dipstick pipe and pour it in.. this way car’s oil filter is used but, personally, would never pour contaminated oil from top of the engine (so it could deposit all the nice things as it filters down to the sump.. as there is a chance of destroying an engine.. even if saving £50.. and i could really really use the £50 squid ..). Sowwe, my 2 cents..

 

[Argonought]

Some debris might reside in the sump I suppose (which resisted removal on the last flush) but no oil will hit any bearings or narrow oil ways without first being filtered. Whatever the views, the question is largely academic anyway.

What's the likelihood of carrying out a fresh oil change followed by dropping the sump (it's never happened to me)

Back to the OP's problem then I'd say it's more likely checks need be made at the top end in which the case the oil stays in the sump. Now in my view, this is the time real contamination can take place (obviously you should take care not to drop dirt in the oil ways) and yet how many of us just rebuild the engine and give little thought to the oil.

That's the one time I'd feel happier with a fresh change!

 

[PNL]

I think the problem has very probably arisen in the first place through a poor service history..you never know what your buying with a second hand vehicle ..any old oil could have been used and that could very well be the crux of the problem in the first place..some people are very ignorant of the fact that regular servicing using the correct oil and filters etc is a very important part of running a car and will prolong and extend the life of the engine if done correctly..to late now for the poster but one I am sure he will now take on board and stick to in the future..

 

[Pebblo]

The car was bought from new and had full fiat service histroy apart from the last two as they knew the car was going to be given to me then.

The only reason I didn't have it serviced since I had it is I've only just done 8k since I've had it so thorugh it would of been ok for the year. I'll be changing the oil every 4 to 6 months I think with something decent (most likely Edge or Mobil 1 stuff).

I went to a couple of places today, both asked if oil light stays on etc. Was told to try Hyrodolic Lifter cleaner, try that for a week and then if its still doing it, to come back and they'll strip it down.

Personally I dont think it's going to work but supose I might aswell give it a blast. Supose this means I should do the oil change aswell before I put the stuff in.

Peb

 

[Argonought]

Supose this means I should do the oil change aswell before I put the stuff in.

No; leave the oil change until the problem is resolved.

That way you start with fresh oil. You don't need to go overboard with oil changes. A good fully synthetic should easily last 12 mths or 12k miles; it's the cheap mineral oils and the like which need changing every 6 mths or so (which kinda defeats buying cheap)

 

[12[X]]

valve lifter may help good luck dude

which leads me to my question/s (it's been a while ) in the case of my little long suffering 1.8 valve lifter didn't help (think the tappets are just leaking pressure i.e. are too far gone). Sfar as i though on 1.8 it is a matter of cam --> follower --> tappet --> valve; but that naive view isn't correct.. is it just cam --> tappet --> valve? (why were people talking about re-shimming? There are no shims?)

Now i do know it's next to impossible to get the valves out with head in (although some tools claim capable of doing so?) but assume that tappets are easily removed with head on? Magnetic tool would do?

Oil channels are unlikely to ever be blocked (never used anything but fully synthetic) although oil can cook and cake (as was the case with the gas recirculation valve on top of the cam cover..?) so.. the only way i could think of testing is just a small tube and blow test eheh would there normally be back pressure? What is the path of cam oil channels (elearn was no joy there) am thinking of pumping some solvent down to clear them out (but am somewhat worried where it is going to end up?) cool that’s all

 

[Pebblo]

Right I've got one more question, my oil sump is totally full. Its at the very top mark on the dipstick.

Now I've got this lifter fluid to put in, is it going to cause problem like when it was overfilled with oil or should I remove some from the sump first?

Only asking as I'm very cautious with overfilling the oil again, I know its only a tiny amount but thought it worth asking.

Cheers
Peb

 

[12[X]]

never overfill you would need to drain off as much as you are about to put in..
also, drain when cold add when hot (as it would say on the can)

 

[Argonought]

This thread went way off topic and has just been cleaned in case anyone wonders where posts have gone.