General Stilo 20,000 mile service.

[Shadeyman]

Had a problem with the car which delayed completing my service.
But all is good again now thanks to the Fiat Forum(big thanks to hanzs)
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/273655-double-map-failure.html

So today I plan to change the gearbox oil and if I have time swop the dials for these new white ones the missus likes.

Question:
I found what looks like two plugs on the side of the gearbox/diff below the battery. Are these the plugs Davren is refering to in this post/thread below? If so do I have to remove the battery to gain access to the filler plug which I believe is on the top of the gearbox?

1.76 Ltr. from empty.

There's a combined filler and level plug on the side of the gearbox, so if you fill it with the car on it's wheels and on level ground, oil will overflow out of the filler hole when it has the correct amount.

You can download a Stilo handbook from the forum downloads section if you don't have one.

https://www.fiatforum.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=5
.

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/124679-stilo-1-9-jtd-gearbox-oil-grade.html

 

[Morty Mort]

The 1.6 box drain plug is the absoulte lowest possible hex bolt on the box. It faces rearwards, some degrees down. Size 8 or 10, can' remember exactly. It sits tight, so if you don't have a ratchet, use a rubber mallet on a hex key to loosen it. The filler is on the middle of the box, facing directly forwards. Size 12, just as the sump drain plug. Use a garden hose and funnel to fill up.

 

[Shadeyman]

The 1.6 box drain plug is the absoulte lowest possible hex bolt on the box. It faces rearwards, some degrees down. Size 8 or 10, can' remember exactly. It sits tight, so if you don't have a ratchet, use a rubber mallet on a hex key to loosen it. The filler is on the middle of the box, facing directly forwards. Size 12, just as the sump drain plug. Use a garden hose and funnel to fill up.

Attached is, I think, the gearbox case(PN - 71736834) for my JTD. I thought item 2 in the diagram was the filler plug and the 2 on the side were drain and level plugs?

 

[Morty Mort]

Attached is, I think, the gearbox case(PN - 71736834) for my JTD. I thought item 2 in the diagram was the filler plug and the 2 on the side were drain and level plugs?

Strange...

Try to click your way to the case for the 1.6: 46524935.

Item 6 is the filler plug (12 mm) and item 7 is the drain plug (8 or 10 mm). The drain plug should be mounted far down to allow it to completely empty old oil. It wouldn't make sense if the sump's drain plug was on the side either, letting loads of old oil stay in the bottom when trying to drain it.

 

[Shadeyman]

Strange...

Try to click your way to the case for the 1.6: 46524935.

Item 6 is the filler plug (12 mm) and item 7 is the drain plug (8 or 10 mm). The drain plug should be mounted far down to allow it to completely empty old oil. It wouldn't make sense if the sump's drain plug was on the side either, letting loads of old oil stay in the bottom when trying to drain it.

Drain and filler plugs are both on the side but the drain plug is very low down.

 

[Morty Mort]

Drain and filler plugs are both on the side but the drain plug is very low down.

Before you open up the drain plug, make sure you can open the filler plug. Not very fun to be stranded with an empty gearbox. It's quite difficult to flip the car upside down to refill it.

 

[Yellow Peril]

And the other thing to be wary of is that some FIAT gearboxes have another plug low down which is actually access to the fifth gear shaft (or something) and you don't want to undo that!

Sorry to be a bit vague, but I had this on a Punto some years back - took out what I tought was the drain plug, but only got half a tea cup of oil from it...

 

[Shadeyman]

I hope to have time the afternoon to change the gearbox oil so I'll let you all know how things go.

The drain and fill level plugs are easy to get to if the car is on ramps, I just make sure all 4 wheels are back on level ground when I fill her up.

Access to the top filler plug is easy enough using a short length of hosepipe, I thought I may need to remove the battery but its not necessary.

 

[Shadeyman]

Someone please tell me how to remove the needles from the clocks so I can remove the black dials?

 

[Yellow Peril]

Someone please tell me how to remove the needles from the clocks so I can remove the black dials?

This guide seems to address it...

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo-guides/96473-fitting-new-dials-cluster.html

 

[Shadeyman]

Well everything went to plan untill I pulled the last needle off.

The metal centre pin came out with the needle ...

I stripped the mechanism to see if I could repair it.

It is possible, unfortunately I over did it a bit.

By pulling out the metal pin the centre shaft of the small plastic gear attached to the pin increases in size as the flared pin is pulled through it.
This causes the plastic shaft to seize up in its opening.

My solution was to increase the size of the opening slightly so the shaft was free to move again after I had re-inserted the metal pin into the plastic gear.

It worked, ALMOST, I increased the size of the hole too much so the shaft was too loose in the hole I made and the small gears slipped sometimes giving faulse readings.

If I had taken a bit more care increasing the the size of the hole the shaft went through the repair would have worked.

I've attached some photo's so anyone with the same problem has a chance of fixing it.

Fortunately a breakers around the corner from me has a JTD in, I'll be collecting the clocks from it in the morning.

 

[Shadeyman]

Well after doing the service and curing a leaking vac pipe I've decided to leave the my Diesel Express Tuning Box off and have the car remmaped to run on Bio. If your interested in the tuning box its advertised in the classifieds.
https://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=23269

Not sure what gains I'll get, if any, but I'm hoping for better MPG, at 90p a litre the remap should pay for itself.

 

[Shadeyman]

Fitted the white dials to the new clocks yesterday and they look lot better than I was expecting.

I've just ordered another set for a friend, he wants them fitted to his car too. However, due to the hassles I had removing the red needles he wants to purchase another set of clocks and fit them to that instead of messing up his original clocks. If anyone has any foresale PM me or leave me a comment on my wanted add in the Classifields.
https://www.fiatforum.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=23282

 

[Shadeyman]

I forgot to mention, the new clocks I brought had an "oil presure sensor" error stored.
First I did a proxy-alignment proceedure to register the new ones then I accessed the clocks ECU and clear the error code.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

I forgot to mention, the new clocks I brought had an "oil presure sensor" error stored.
First I did a proxy-alignment proceedure to register the new ones then I accessed the clocks ECU and clear the error code.

So when you done the proxy alignment that automatically corrected the mileage on the clocks to what the car had done?

 

[Shadeyman]

So when you done the proxy alignment that automatically corrected the mileage on the clocks to what the car had done?

Yes, it must have done because the new clocks had 9 miles more on them than the original ones did.

 

[Shadeyman]

Here's a few photo's of the Gearbox Oil change I did, may help someone as it shows the positions of the Drain plug, Level plug and filler plug.

 

[Morty Mort]

Completely different from the 1.6. Does it have something to do with the clutch differences?

 

[Shadeyman]

So when you done the proxy alignment that automatically corrected the mileage on the clocks to what the car had done?

UPDATE.

My proxi-alignment failed and I didn't notice untill today when I tried to do it again. So I have no idea if it reset the mileage. Fortunately there was only 9 miles difference between the clusters.

Sorry.

 

[jeremees]

Well everything went to plan untill I pulled the last needle off.

The metal centre pin came out with the needle ...

I stripped the mechanism to see if I could repair it.

It is possible, unfortunately I over did it a bit.

By pulling out the metal pin the centre shaft of the small plastic gear attached to the pin increases in size as the flared pin is pulled through it.
This causes the plastic shaft to seize up in its opening.

My solution was to increase the size of the opening slightly so the shaft was free to move again after I had re-inserted the metal pin into the plastic gear.

It worked, ALMOST, I increased the size of the hole too much so the shaft was too loose in the hole I made and the small gears slipped sometimes giving faulse readings.

If I had taken a bit more care increasing the the size of the hole the shaft went through the repair would have worked.

I've attached some photo's so anyone with the same problem has a chance of fixing it.

Fortunately a breakers around the corner from me has a JTD in, I'll be collecting the clocks from it in the morning.

Hello! My cluster was completely silent, and nothing was working. So I had to open cluster to solder it and I pulled out those pins on thermo and fuel gauges. Soldering worked and now cluster is working, except motors heat and fuelgauge.

Can I fix those white meterthings without spare parts? Do I need to increase the size of the opening, like you tried or do you have any better ideas? Did you use drill to get hole bigger?