General STILO 1.6, where is C11 earth?

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General STILO 1.6, where is C11 earth?

lazzar

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If the C10 earth is the one by the fusebox, up and right from the battery (looking from the front of the car), where is C11 earth?
Should be on the oposite side, but I just cant find it?

Could anyone send a picture (not from the eLearn CD please)?

Thanks.
 
Access from underneath, very near the windscreen washer reservoir
earth point C11.JPG

earth points engine bay.JPG
 
Thanks very very much!!!!

I will try to access it this afternoon and do a bit of cleaning and stuff...

Thank you once again!
 
Once again, I am trully and completely amazed by the ability of FIAT's engineers to make things complicated.

It is just there as you said so, Decks - it took me good ten minutes to find it, but I didn't have enough time to totally dismantle everyting to gain access to C11. Definitelly during the upcoming weekend...

Cheers
 
To save unnecessary work, do a voltage drop test across it. Set your multimeter to volts, turn on the item you are having problems with (you don't say why you want to check C11) if you can to put some power through there to earth and check the voltage between the tag of C11 and a good earth. Be sure to be on the tag and not on the mount bolt. The voltage should be as near to zero as possible of course. If you can check voltage drop from the component earth line to a good earth on the engine then that's even better

Anything above 0.2v and there's a problem

battery earth volts 6.JPG
Here's testing a main battery earth voltage drop test. This is 0.02v so that's fine now
 
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The problem is rather old:
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/182451-stilo-1-6-rpm-going-too-low.html

Still having troubles with it...

What's even more strange is that my revs aren't falling bellow 700 no matter how high I put them and for how long when the car is standing still - not moving. If I'm riding in neutral and press the gas pedal to put the revs up high, after releasing it, the revs fall sometimes to shut the engine down.

The number of el. consumers is still a fact that is making the "phenomenon" more obvious...
 
Is your engine temp gauge staying steady at N? Sometimes a stuck open engine thermostat will result in engine overcooling after a fast run which take sit out of closed loop feedback and a loss of tickover results

Are you able to read your lambda sensor voltage outputs on the move as running data? If the sensor overcools then it no longer outputs a signal

Does it only happen when running on LPG?

Your engine should hold a steady tickover no matter what electrical load you put on it
 
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"Is your engine temp gauge staying steady at N? Sometimes a stuck open engine thermostat will result in engine overcooling after a fast run which take sit out of closed loop feedback and a loss of tickover results"

Really can't say... Engine temperature was never a thing to watch during Examiner hook-ups, not that I recall. Maybe, I will give it a try during next few days...
Could be if the algorithm for ECU is that in case of a fast drop down of temperature a slow jump it does something extra. Driving on LPG makes the temperatures higher...
The gauge on the board is like glued to the middle of teh scale when the engine warms up.

"Are you able to read your lambda sensor voltage outputs on the move as running data? If the sensor overcools then it no longer outputs a signal
"


I Yes I am, I have LPG Kit diagnostic and along with oter stuff lambda sensor voltage - it cuts up and down just nice. When the foot is on clutch, during cut-offs it is zero, but when driving, it is nice.
The whole car is acting great except for that snall detail...


"Does it only happen when running on LPG?"

No it doesn't, only it's a bit more obvious on LPG. To make it just as obvious on gasoline, I turn on more electrical consumers.

...

An interesting thing is that a whole car is a bit shakey in beetwen 750-1000 rpm, just before idleing (both on gasoline and LPG - no difference; it was so even before adding LPG kit...). The revs don't go up and down, it just shakes a bit (like it is scared to start idleing...).
Below 750, at around 720 which a standard (for mine) rpm when idleing, one can hardly feel it, but it is noticable (have changed both plugs and coils - all of them - no effect on the shaking thing). Above 1000 revs, well it is hard to notice because the sounds are different, everything is different, but the shaking is the same and maybe even less than at 720 rpm.
I thought that maybe some air is getting inside after the throttle body valve, but simply couldn't find where. Maybe you could point me where specailly to look. Since his shakig thing was something I recall even before installing the LPG kit, it (propably) couldn't be the place where LPG injectors are introduced into the motor.
What I also wanted to check was te earthing of the schirm on senors K43 i K47. From my experience, bad schirming can explaine a lot of "unexplained" things. For that, I have to find C40B earth which is nowhere!!!!! I tried to find it this afternoon but it was nowhere... Maybe Mr. Giovanni decided to put in somwhere where one has to dismantle half of the stuff to gain access to it...
Or it was just blind me...
What I found was only one earth on the engine, just underneath the ECU and one the ECU.

I read lot of post describing my biggest problem, but no actual solvings (except from the ECU change...):
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/132207-engine-shuts-down-when-foot-clutch.html
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/197708-stilo-cutting-out-when-pressing-clutch.html
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto/98731-punto-keeps-cutting-out-when-clutch-pushed.html

... Have checked that I30 and I31 - The Brakes and Clutch pedal sensors... They look OK. One thing that worries me is that two types of I31 have changed after mine STILO was made in XII/2001, one type in II/2002 and other in V/2002.
 
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The gauge on the board is like glued to the middle of the scale when the engine warms up.
That's perfect then so it's probably not engine temperature that's causing any problems. I would check the air gap on your rpm sensor, if it's a little too wide then, like your spark plugs, the sensor misses the information of where the piston is which can cause low rpm problems

I presume your lambda sensor goes to zero just after the engine dies and not just before?

CIMG2159.JPG
Earth point C40 A/B is the one directly underneath the throttle body connector
 
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...I would check the air gap on your rpm sensor, if it's a little too wide then, like your spark plugs, the sensor misses the information of where the piston is which can cause low rpm problems
I have thought about rpm sensor at one moment, but I believe more things would go wrong if the problem involved rpm sensor... But I'll check it one of these days...

I presume your lambda sensor goes to zero just after the engine dies and not just before?
It goes to zero after I press the clutch and while motor is in fuel clutch off. Maybe it is a bit lazy after fuel cut off, just a bit before idling.
But no problem is present when car is still...

Earth point C40 A/B is the one directly underneath the throttle body connector
I thought so, checked later last night at eLearn and concluded there was nothing else that could it...

Thanks very much Decks, your enthusiasm keeps my hope of actually solving this problem alive.
 
I agree the rpm sensor tends to give symptoms of a non start or unreliable start but poor earth shielding there would make it liable to electrical noise and a too large air gap would make it miss the piston position and have unreliable engine rpm information

If it doesn't know engine rpm or piston position then the ECU stops ignition and fuel
 
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