Technical Special Instrument bulb for optical wiring

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Technical Special Instrument bulb for optical wiring

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Sorry to ask again.

Is there anywhere I can get the special bulb for the instruments. The bulb with the special focus lense.

I want to try to get the original lights going again before I put led lights in each holder (like I did with my 84-70s)

It is an Osram 12v 5w special focus bulb
 
Sorry to ask again.

Is there anywhere I can get the special bulb for the instruments. The bulb with the special focus lense.

I want to try to get the original lights going again before I put led lights in each holder (like I did with my 84-70s)

It is an Osram 12v 5w special focus bulb

Fiat did still do them but they aren't cheap. Same with a motor factor I asked, though they also did standard bulbs for pennies. So I fitted a standard bulb, which though a bit dimmer still works. Apparently you can also fit a white LED in place of the bulb, which being brighter should compensate for not having the magnifying lense of the original bulb. Rawill, try fitting a standard bulb and see if that's sufficient as it will be a lot cheaper and easier to get hold of (y)
 
What should I do to get rid of rattles and squeaks when I put my dash back in.

Turn the stereo up ;)

Seriously!

Unos are reknowned for their squeaks and rattles, especially mk1's, I guess it's all part of their 'character'. Little short of rubber mounting everything there's not a lot you can do as a lot of the squeaks and rattles come from the design of the interior plastic, much of which is quite brittle and hard.

AlexGS is the man to ask as he has taken measures to sound proof his turbo successfully. My Unos? I like them just the way they are and I have a nice stereo system installed to deal with most non serious noises that develop ;)
 
Use as much blue tack as it takes on the mating plastic surfaces, to deaden the sound transmitted by poor fitting trim etc, it really does do the trick, just don't go overboard with the blue tack otherwise you will end up, with it oozing out everywhere and get people thinking there's a new interior trend out - diy blue piping :p:doh:
 
Hello rawill,

First off - special bulb - ask Repco to look in their supplier's catalogue from Philips Lighting, I think it might just be in there.

If not, I suggest a visit to Jaycar Electronics (know them? I don't know if there's a branch close to you, try www.jaycar.co.nz) for a white LED, the brightest they have (18000mcd?), and about a 420 ohm resistor to wire up in series (i.e. between the blue wire and the long leg of the LED. The short leg goes to ground (black wire). Being diodes, LEDs will only work when wired one way around. As for the resistor value to use, 370 should work, but best to be on the safe side, I have burnt out so many white LEDs - maybe buy a spare or two and a 560 ohm resistor as well... the higher the resistance, the (slightly) dimmer the LED, but the longer it will last.

The light from an LED is very directional, so there is absolutely no need for a 'magnifying glass' beam concentrator, and today's LEDs give a light approaching white (rather than bluish-white of 'white' LEDs a few years ago). LEDs are quite useless for replacing standard bulbs in most instrument panels, because they put all the light out the end and none out the sides. But fibre optics is one time when that characteristic works to your advantage - also, the whiteness of the switch legends makes them look pleasingly 'bright'.

Now, stopping dashboard squeaks. A technique used in more expensive cars is self-adhesive felt - similar idea to the blue tack but obviously black and furry so might stand out less. Actually, there is a bit of felt in the Uno as standard - on the ends of the dash roll. I discovered self-adhesive felt at Spotlight (a homeware and arts-and-crafts shop, again, hope there's a branch near you) - and Made in Italy, no less! Cheap-as, few dollars a sheet, looks exactly like the original (though, the original fades to brown in the sun).

Basically, you cut a little strip and put it along the edge of plastic items where they touch, or a square where a screw goes through, like where the instrument cluster base screws to the dashboard top. Another example - the hooks for the dashboard corners - replace the worn-out foam with a little square of felt. Works wonders.

Quicker than putting in bits of felt, and sometimes the only solution that will fit (switch pods, airvents), is to coat all touching surfaces with silicone grease - OR, I discovered recently, rubber grease is a cheaper substitute that works just as well and doesn't seem to harm plastic (it shouldn't, because it's designed not to harm plastic 'rubber' seals). Get a tube of rubber grease from an engineering shop (e.g. Blackwood Paykels - for some reason, the auto parts stores don't seem to sell it, though Supercheap has tiny overpriced sachets). A large tube should set you back about $15.

Really nice to avoid that 'creak' every time you throw a switch. :) Steering column covers are another hotspot for creaks. There are so many things that deserve attention on the Uno.

I went for a long drive in my Alfa 164 today and for all my replacement felt and rubber grease, I was rewarded with a totally rattle-and-squeak-free drive. It was surreal, as quiet as a new car, maybe quieter (almost every car has some slight buzz or tick-tock noise). So I'm claiming victory on this one :p

Just not in my Uno... It was a lot better, but never perfect. Something that made a big difference in the Uno was putting a load of fibre-reinforced filler (bog) around the metal mounting sleeve for the stereo (mine's never coming out again...) That eliminates any movement (loud rattles) and reduces the flex in the plastic console - and solves the problem of cracks in the support frame, too. I find the heater-console jumps up and down vigorously in the Uno, so making it more solid and mounting it on felt helps a lot.

I found the doors of the Uno were a constant source of rattles and were not well soundproofed. There's lots of room for improvement, anyway...

-Alex
 
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Re: Soundproofing

a lot of the squeaks and rattles come from the design of the interior plastic, much of which is quite brittle and hard.

This is completely true... the plastic is a cheaper grade than in certain other cars (I'll resist naming names, but basically nothing in the same class or age as the Uno, and usually German or Japanese ;))

I think when the Uno was designed, quality of the plastics (touch and feel) was not the important science it is today - the priority was on creating a cool design that looked funky and worked well. I also wonder whether the plastics might dry out and become squeakier with age. The heater console and instrument panel base/switch pods, for example. The dash top (not the roll, but the shelf surface) is actually quite good quality ABS, like the door bins. There are good bits, so it's just a matter of treating the bad bits.

The Uno has on its side a nice smooth and quiet engine in most versions, especially the FIRE which I think is a little gem of smoothness. A bit more soundproofing and it can be a quiet car engine-wise. My Alfa 164 is a different story... its huge V6 tugs on the body structure and creates a vocal racket that's very hard to silence. I just finished setting the valve clearances on both banks (two days) - a job that's hardly ever needed on an Uno - I think I could have stripped and rebuilt a FIRE engine in that time.

-Alex
 
try www.jaycar.co.nz) for a white LED, the brightest they have (18000mcd?), and about a 420 ohm resistor to wire up in series

The light from an LED is very directional, so there is absolutely no need for a 'magnifying glass' beam concentrator, and today's LEDs give a light approaching white -Alex

Led will be the way to go again, but hopefully with one - Repco were no help, but I might have come across an original some time in the future.

A computer/electronics friend says he has seen the bulb and has seen them in a catalogue.

Re squeaks and rattles: Hardly any in the car when I drove to the upholsterers to drop off the bolster. No good with no dash in and no indicators though - It was rush hour in Invercargill!!

Went looking for a spare ECU for my 93 9000griffin as well - no luck so far.
 
LED instrument lights again.

18000 mcd - Put a 470 ohm resistor on it.
It has only a very dim light when it comes out of the optical fibres.

I did not realize this lead was on as soon as the key is turned on.
I thought it would only come on when the lights were turned on.

That is how I wired up my other Uno - I never used the original lead.

I am wondering about multi leds again to brighten up the lights.

Got my dash back in with a new bolster - looks good.
Very few squeaks!!
 
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18000 mcd - Put a 470 ohm resistor on it.
It has only a very dim light when it comes out of the optical fibres.

Is it bright before it goes through the optical fibres? It should be uncomfortably bright to look at, like an Energizer keyring single-LED torch (if you have one of those, test to see what light you get through the optical fibres from that). If your LED isn't bright enough, use a lower value resistor. 470 was a safe guess but perhaps I was wrong and it needs to be half that?


I did not realize this lead was on as soon as the key is turned on.
I thought it would only come on when the lights were turned on.

Yes - light is on all the time, useful at night to find the headlight switch I guess, but it's fairly obvious now why the original bulb always burns out :)

Once you are getting on well with LEDs, I think it is nice to have an LED over the ignition key - you can mount it into the steering column cover so it shines on the keyhole. The ground wire can go to the driver's door switch (nearby). This works especially well when you have a timed delay module added to the driver's door switch, so the interior light (and the keyhole LED) stay on for ten seconds after closing the door. I bought the timed delay modules from a trade supplier named 'Extreme Automotive' (tools, electrical items), but you could also ask Repco or an automotive electrician.

I also put LEDs in the glovebox but those kept burning out. Basically, when you put LEDs in parallel, the rules for the resistor value change! It's best to give each LED its own resistor.

-Alex
 
I got some small, sidelight sized, bayonet halogen bulbs off ebay 6-21w (but dont go mad on watts or it`ll melt the light box), they use them on motorbikes (you can also get orange!) & they were cheap, £2-3.

Some have offset pins, but 2 minutes with a file sorts that out...

(y)
 
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Is it bright before it goes through the optical fibres? It should be uncomfortably bright to look at, like an Energizer keyring single-LED torch

Yes it is very bright - and the lights are good enough at night

470 was a safe guess but perhaps I was wrong and it needs to be half that?

You were right about 470 - the electronics guy said no lower or it be smoke.


Yes - light is on all the time, useful at night to find the headlight switch I guess, but it's fairly obvious now why the original bulb always burns out :)

Yes - I think I will find a new supply lead.

Once you are getting on well with LEDs, I think it is nice to have an LED over the ignition key - you can mount it into the steering column cover so it shines on the keyhole.

Good idea

I tried multi quotes but it didn't work!
 
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