shelf

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shelf

charlieboy

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picked up some 6x9's yday.

want to mount them so they are not visible. is it the wrong idea to mount them staright onto the bottom of my shelf?

if tis, which i think it is lol, how do i go about turnin my existing shelf into a "stealth" style shelf?

cheers charlie
 
i made the mistake of screwing my first ever 6x9's yo underneath of parcel shelf :eek:

the hole still need to be there to allow the sound to go through, the orignal shelf would need strengthaning, thats easily done, i just framed mine out (just put would in between the grooves), and on the 2 flat sections where the speakers are most likely to sit i cut a piece of mdf to fit, marked out the holes and cut the both out in one go

the shelf will need recovering to hide the holes for the speakers

complete new shelf could be the best option and easiest too, but it you want to keep te original look of the uno shelf then do something along the lines of what i put up above
 
Screw a lump of plywood to the underneath of the shelf - theres 2 parallel metal bars crying to be screwed to ;) :D

Cut out the size hole you need for the speakers. Install the speakers normally (IE on top).

Then get some acoustic transparent carpet and cover the top layer of the shelf with it. The uno's shelf has recessed areas so if you cover it over tightly so its flat, the speakers should hide in the recess holes and you'll have a flat shelf that hides the speakers.

Thats how i've done mine, just need to cover the shelf!
The underneath - with crossovers:
7848Image_102_.jpg

The top with speakers in the recess. Just needs covering
7848Image_104_.jpg


Note: My underneath is a bit excessive strengthening, but then those QB69's weigh a tonne :D
 
Last edited:
charlieboys93UNO said:
if i mount them as normal, and the cover with acoustic carpet (without strengthening) is my shelf likely to bend/dip and eventually give way? :confused:

depends on the weight of the cone. But the current shelf is flimsy and not too good for installing speakers in anyway. It may not break, but for the best sound reprocussion, speakers need a solid foundation...

Even a block underneath like gaz said may suffice... All depends on the weight :)
 
thnks guys my next project for halfterm :p

how much does the acoustic transparancy carpet cost a roll n how big is the roll?

luke the MDF strnghtening on the bottom would look better sprayed with black primer IMO i intend on sprayin mine black when i do mine

cheers charlie
 
charlieboys93UNO said:
thnks guys my next project for halfterm :p

how much does the acoustic transparancy carpet cost a roll n how big is the roll?

luke the MDF strnghtening on the bottom would look better sprayed with black primer IMO i intend on sprayin mine black when i do mine

cheers charlie

its plywood ;) And i know it does but my shelf is always down even when you open the boot so i couldnt be bothered to trim it as noone will ever see that part...

Not sure on the price and size, as it varies. All i can advise is to shop around.
 
auto acoustics sell the roll by the metre www.autoacoustics.com

make sure you get acoustic carpet though cause lots of places ell beass box carpet which aint no good :( will sound like the speakers a farting if you cover them with this :eek:

'frauds will sell it but as usual its expensive
 
yup, 'budget' is the word. specially being a student :( but picking up some fusion FES-692's for the money i work 8hrs for is perfect plus quality is good enough for me and will keep me and my wallet smiling!!

when i cover my shelf with the acoustic carpet do i use contact adheisive and then stretch the ATC across the shelf as tight as i can!?

cheers charlie
 
charlieboys93UNO said:
yup, 'budget' is the word. specially being a student :( but picking up some fusion FES-692's for the money i work 8hrs for is perfect plus quality is good enough for me and will keep me and my wallet smiling!!

when i cover my shelf with the acoustic carpet do i use contact adheisive and then stretch the ATC across the shelf as tight as i can!?

cheers charlie

Yea that'll pretty much do the trick :)
 
the real iceman said:
come on now. for the price of 6X9s u cud buy a set of components of better quality

You can also buy good 6x9s... Or Have both ;) 6x9s, 7x10 etc have a different cone structure and size to most components, which means they often fill the audio gap between the subs and the components range. The midbass range is alot wider than most seem to see, and just cos a pair of components say they're 50hz to 50khz for example, doesnt mean that they hit those notes particularly well.

6x9s are the budget way of trying to bridge all audio frequencies the cheap way (as gaz has said). You could use dedicated mid-bass drivers togther with an equaliser to sort out the acoustic range, but on a budget it aint worth it. Im sure you can agree with that.
 
gaz_wrexham said:
:yeahthat: :p

i always assumed comps where for the high notes :eek: - shows how much i know :eek:

generally they are as the components are commonly only around 10cm to 13cm - which only deals with about 1/2 to 2/3 of the midbass range. The tweeters are for the high notes, the larger cones for the mid bass. You can get the larger 16cm ones, but you might as well get some 6x9s and use them :D
 
but the cone shape is simply contradictive. circles are ridgid, they can push air with amazing force. speaker comapnies engineer their cones to give most rigidity, kicker made square cone force punchier bass. sony tried a not so successful hexagonal cone, then you get the 6x9 which is just physically not ridgid. the only way to make them ridgid is by bulking up the material, thus making the cone heavier.

In other words, you could hit a wider range of frequencies with 6x9's but you will be doing it badly.

6x9's are also mounted in an inconvienient place. high range frequencies are extremely directional and will be sound best pointing at your ear, so why point your best quality speakers at the rear window??

coming back to the "budget" this is exactly the reason why nova drivers own them.
 
when wiring my 6x9's into the back of my HU are there set places for the wires eg. front speakers at top or anything like that?

also what would be the easiest way to get my HU out or will the wiring be able to be done with theHU still in place?

cheers charlie
 
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