General Separate starter switch in order to conserve the original switch?

[e42b]

Hi folks,

sometimes, really seldom (1 out of 100 times about), my starter lock refuses to toggle the starter. Once back and forth does the job regularly.
But, i'm conscious about the fact that there is a problem coming up. So, i did some research on changing the starter switch which led me to the decision to try to keep the part in place working as long as possible.

My question: Did anyone of you install a separate starter switch before?
(I'm conscious about the fact that this a very German question.)

All meanings, experiences, sorts of knowhow are welcome.

Healthiness to all of you

 

[portland_bill]

This is possible, but will be fiddly.
You'll need to identify the feed to the ignition switch, and the wire that goes out to the starter, or to the ECU to request the starter.
Feed to the separate switch needs to be from the ignition switch, not the feed to it, as the starter switch needs to be live only when the ignition is on.

Then just take the wires to a push switch.
Here's one: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/push...6E6669673D3026&searchHistory={"enabled":true}
Or a selection here:https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/searc...e&mid=0&pf=&pt=&adv=false&isc=false&sid=false

I appreciate you are not in the UK, but something similar should be available in Europe. Those who race or rally cars will have such things, so there will be a source.

Do you have a lot of keys on the same bunch, all hanging from the ignition switch? This can be a cause of switch wear, with the weight pulling down all the time. Ideally, only ignition key and fob should be there.

 

[e42b]

This is possible, but will be fiddly.
You'll need to identify the feed to the ignition switch, and the wire that goes out to the starter, or to the ECU to request the starter.
Feed to the separate switch needs to be from the ignition switch, not the feed to it, as the starter switch needs to be live only when the ignition is on.

Then just take the wires to a push switch.
something similar should be available in Europe. Those who race or rally cars will have such things, so there will be a source.

Do you have a lot of keys on the same bunch, all hanging from the ignition switch? This can be a cause of switch wear, with the weight pulling down all the time. Ideally, only ignition key and fob should be there.

Thank you very much for your input. The key bunch weight is something i didn't consider before.
The hints to racing are helpful to.
Concerning the wiring i can say that i'm not the worst one in eleckatricketing. (Gave a worn out Mercedes Diesel OM 615 another 200,000 km by building in a 24V equipment from a lorry after about half a million before as a cab.)
I consider finding out the wires at the fuse box can be a task for a warm, not to sunny Saturday afternoon.
My experiences are a bit outdated, though, and i know that i have to consider that the hardwired computer which is running my van's motor is always on the run to detect a lie which gives it the opportunity to recommend me to the friendly garages around.

Since i know from experience that a 16A relais is good enough to switch the amps for an (old) beetle magnetic starter switch i wonder whether an ordinary 16A switch will do, giving me the opportunity to leave out the relais. (In German cars, i never saw the wire gauge to be a problem. The latter became a problem with the first Italian cars i met, even on an Alfa. This problem is new to me.)
Does anyone have an idea how many amps the solenoid switch of a modern diesel starter will draw when the oil is cold, the battery is longing for being loaded, the sun is four hours away from rising, and the wiring is designed by FIAT?

Anyway, your input is very helpful. Thank you very much for that.

(Yes, i confess that i'm a lazybone. My van has to go whenever i decide to want it to go. It needs some care which i'm willing to give preferably on warm days in an easy-going working environment rather than at four o'clock in the morning with -10 degrees somewhere on a country road with no net on the phone.)

 

[portland_bill]

16a seems a lot more than you need.
You did not say what age of Doblo, but I guess this is after 2000 so is likely to be CanBus so only tiny currents to the switches.

You are not trying to take a full battery feed to the starter, and the place to tap into the wiring will be at the switch, not the fusebox.

When the ignition switch is turned to 'start', it sends a small current to the computer to ask for the starter. That signal can come from anywhere, the computer will not know. All you are needing to do is place a new switch in the line, to replace the one on the column.

So you need a wiring diagram, to determine which wire does that job, and also to determine which is the ignition feed out from the ignition switch. Then your switch goes between those wires.

Another thought, the ignition switch is in two parts. The mechanical part, that unlocks the steering, and an electrical switch on the end. Often the electrical part is replaceable, but this will usually need the whole lock removing from the column, which has bolts with heads that have been sheared off. If a replacement is not available from Fiat, one might be available from a breaker yard. Don't use the whole switch, or the key will not match the immobiliser.