Northern Auto Tech - ECU and Blue & Me Repairs

Technical Seicento 2002 stuttering

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Technical Seicento 2002 stuttering

Seamus, the world is full of high pressure after-market fuel pumps that can be made to fit any car. All you have to do is cut the fuel line to fit it, mount it 'somewhere' and then wire it in ..

Back in 1990 I bought an electric fuel pump to replace the defective manual fuel pump on my 3500cc Rover. That electric pump cost £70 back then ..

This pump fits your car?:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Seic...h=item465088c757:g:HI4AAOSwU-pXthmG#vi-ilComp

The original is best. It fits.
 
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Oh, I see .. different manufacturer of the same pump. Yes, go ahead. The pump is part of the body. The only difference is that some may not include the sender - in which case you have to transfer it over from the old pump.

It's like tyres... Bridgestone, Goodyear, Pirelli etc .. will all fit your car.
 
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Your car is mpi , multi point injection , or you have one injector for each cylinder.
You MUST get a pump for the mpi system which operates at 3bar pressure,
a pump for the single point system is 1bar pressure and will not work!

Your system does not have a fuel return as it turns out.
 
Type seciento fuel pump into eBay there is a second hand one for mpi for £28 delivered , that sounds pretty cheap to me.
If it's duff send it back.
Or by a new Bosch one for about £90
 
It is one injector per cylinder.

It does have return to tank but it is a separate connection on the outer top of the tank. It has a connection at both ends. I think the other is a breather back to the fill pipe.
 
Whatever ... look on Ebay - you'll recognise your fuel pump (the manufacturer/make doesn't matter). Use the 'check compatible vehicles' link to make sure it is the correct one.

You've seemingly solved the problem, Seamus
 
It is almost certainly NOT the fuel pump.

The scan readings all look OK, except the red ones.

Leave the scan attached while warming up and look for what changes when it starts misfiring.

I'd still be crank sensor minded, as they are heat sensitive.

D
 
rallycinq said:
It is almost certainly NOT the fuel pump.

The scan readings all look OK, except the red ones.

Leave the scan attached while warming up and look for what changes when it starts misfiring.

I'd still be crank sensor minded, as they are heat sensitive.

D
Click to expand...
When I started this I was looking for a heat related issue as that made more sense, but at that time I knew zilch about petrol MPI systems.

I followed the fuel pump route as I was persuaded there and it is foolish to ignore those with experience. In spite of my negative feelings it seems that the pump was at fault. Before it was running intermittently and I thought it was an on demand pump, but now it runs continuously.

So far I cannot get the problem to re-appear. But I heed your advice and if it recurs that will be the place to investigate, so thank you for that.

This car has been and endless saga of problems for the last 6 months and has now developed a further one.

The steering wheel now has about 2 1/2" play measured on the rim and now have to investigate that. It has developed quite quickly which is odd. Suspect something loose on the track ends. Think the n/s wheel is not moving as soon as the other - will have to crawl underneath.
 
Seamus2012 said:
The steering wheel now has about 2 1/2" play measured on the rim and now have to investigate that. It has developed quite quickly which is odd. Suspect something loose on the track ends. Think the n/s wheel is not moving as soon as the other - will have to crawl underneath.
Click to expand...

Mr Akermann comes into play here, not the guitar player from Prog band 'Focus', but the man who worked out steering angles.

Definitely needs looked at very urgently though.

D
 
Too right - not going anywhere except behind a snail.

Had a good look today and it is not the steering ball joints. Took one cover off the rack and felt the other and it does not seem to be the coupling joints, so that only leaves the rack & pinion and bearing. If I waggle the steering vigorously there is a cracking type noise. The steering u/js seem consistent.

Never had a problem with rack & pinion before. Always preferred them to any other type.

Maybe I will replace the whole rack. Looks like 2 bolts holding it in place. 2 steering ball joints and the column connection. How easy is it to release the steering column from the rack.
 
Check the inner ball joints on the rack under the rubber gaiter.

Buy a manual it will answer many of you questions and help a huge amount with photographs of what you need.
 
No, not them.

2" play on steering wheel. Nothing on the rack moves until the play is taken up. I am going to replace the rack. Simplest and cheapest way.
 
Just to update this problem on the steering.

Got a mobile mechanic to finish this off and fit a s/h steering rack.

He agreed with me that it was the rack and on taking it out it is most likely the bearing that mates on to the steering column.

Hopefully I can now sell this car before it presents any more problems.

Thanks for all the help various members here have given me.
 
Seamus2012 said:
Just to update this problem on the steering.

Got a mobile mechanic to finish this off and fit a s/h steering rack.

He agreed with me that it was the rack and on taking it out it is most likely the bearing that mates on to the steering column.

Hopefully I can now sell this car before it presents any more problems.

Thanks for all the help various members here have given me.
Click to expand...
You think you have fixed the problems and now you just want to sell it. Not even curious to find out if you like driving it?
 
Had it a number of years and never really liked it. It was mostly for my Wife.

I am now thinking of going electric.
 
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