Technical Sceicento rear brakes

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Technical Sceicento rear brakes

rogerowen

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Feb 16, 2013
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Lymington, Hampshire
Rebuilding O/S rear brakes incl new back plate, shoes, cylinder and all the fittings. Old ones just fell to bits (totally rusty). Can anyone point me to a diagramme to show how the fitting kit works?
 
You have a guide fitted to the other wheel! Don't take them both apart at once.
Thanks, Other side has no fittings either! Found a picture to show me where the pins and pin clips go. Shoes seem to have an adjustable sprung socket that fits on a rod on the back plate. I'm guessing that you hammer this around so the shoe contacts the slave cylinder and the linings are in enough to get the dtum back on. Must be self adjusting?:eek:
 
No hammering!

I've no idea what this socket you're talking about might be. The bar thingy is likely to be the handbrake elbow.

Disconnect the handbrake before you start. Attempting this without a manual (or an intact assembly, or photos) is lunacy.

attachment.php


And a diagram from the Seicento Technical Manual -- which you really, really, ought to download,



The strange thing wrapped round the slave cylinder is a FIAT special tool to stop the pistons falling out (you can use a tie wrap), the prier thingies are another special tool for putting the springs back.
 
they are self adjusting but remove any wear ridge on the drums round file time

apply copper slip to the pivot of the hand brake actuator it needs to be free to spin
 
No hammering!

I've no idea what this socket you're talking about might be. The bar thingy is likely to be the handbrake elbow.

Disconnect the handbrake before you start. Attempting this without a manual (or an intact assembly, or photos) is lunacy.

attachment.php


And a diagram from the Seicento Technical Manual -- which you really, really, ought to download,



The strange thing wrapped round the slave cylinder is a FIAT special tool to stop the pistons falling out (you can use a tie wrap), the prier thingies are another special tool for putting the springs back.
They are the silver discs on the shoes - When I first offered up the shoes they were miles away from the cylinder - so they obviously run in a slot and need to be shifted somehow - hammer (light) was the only way I could see of moving them. Maybe rather than a slot it's a bigger hole as you seem to be able th shift it up and down as well - which is good because one shoe was too low at the cylinder.:eek:
 
They are the self-adjusters. They fit over the pins on the backplate and as the shoes wear they slide to hold the shoes out near the drum. The push from the cylinder is strong enough to push them and cause them to slide when necessary, but the return springs cannot overcome them, so they stay near to but not rubbing the drum. A simple system, that works adequately.

As said, download the manual. Be prepared to swear a lot as they are a tight fit around the flange.
 
OK, I've completed rebuilding O/S rear brake;
New back plate, slave cylinder, hydraulic pipe, shoes, hold-down pins, springs, and handbrake lever arm. Assembled on bench without too much problem - but I can't get the handrake cable near enough to connect it (about 1/2 an inch short) with the drum on.

If I take the drum off and connect the hanbrake cable to the lever - I cannot get the drum back on as the lever is now pushing the shoes out to far.

Drum ridge has been filed down, and I can't believe the cable has shrunk.

I don't believe there is any cable adjustment?

Only thing I can think of is that either the new handbrake actuating lever slots are not deep enough due to poor manufacturing measurements or the brake shoe ends need to ground down (for the same reason).

It's going to be a right pain dissmanteling everything again to make modifications.

Anyone had the same problem???:bang::bang::bang::bang:
 
There's cable adjustment in the same way as you adjust the handbrake. You didn't download the manual, did you?

Anyway, follow the cable back to where it forms a V where it meets the rod that connects to the handbrake lever. The adjustment is by a simple lock and locknut on that threaded lever. Slacken it right off, handbrake off, fit the drums, re-adjust to 3 clicks at the lever, job done.

The guide here could be improved, BWTH.

Don't faff about with anything inside the drum whatsoever.
 
Thanks, as you say - job done. I bought a manual off ebay on CD - it's complete pants! I've downloaded the manuals on the forum, but my computer didn't like them - found out I needed a program to unscramble them. Now got this program - so when I get a moment I'll get to the manual. Thanks for all the advice!!:):)
 
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