Technical Replacing diff seals on ducato 250 2.3 jtd, wheelhubnut torque?

[Bison be]

Hi all,

I´m about to change the diff seals on my 2014 ducator 250.
It´s the second time actually. I did something wrong the first time and now they´re still leaking.
First time i only undid the bottom pivot pin on the controlarm and took the driveshaft out without removing it from the wheel hub. That all went ok, and replacing the seal went fine, but i struggled to get the hub back in the lower control arm. Causing the driveshaft to move in and out of the diff several times. I believe this may have damaged the seal or there´s maybe damage on the shaft that i missed cause i didn´t inspect it thouroughly that caused it.
Planning to remove the driveshaft from the hub this time to inspect it more closely and make install easier.
Can anyone tell me what torque is required for the wheelhubnut on the driveshaft after reinstalling, because i can´t find a defiinitive answer. Some say 500Nm, others 450 or even 300Nm. It´s not the maxi version.
Any other tips to make this more easy?
Or a good brand of seal? I used stark brand from autodoc the first time.

Thx

 

[Kahcorp]

This may help.

 

[Bison be]

This may help.

Thx, helps a lot. Good thing i didn't torque it to 500Nm then.

Took out both driveshafts and both have wear at the seals and the bearing on the right one was also starting to get a little play. So ordered 2 new seals and 2 driveshafts. Ordered a different type for the right side as the first type was not easy to get in.
Is it best to add some sealant like loctite flange sealant when installing them or is it better to use a little oil to make them slide in easier?

 

[Jakeroyd]

I've seen on YouTube drive shafts being removed from the diff end by unbolting the lower ball joint from the lower arm.
So if I remember correctly without undoing the driveshaft outer nut.
Then swing out the whole hub.
I guess stabiliser links , brake hoses , anti roll bar fixings etc. must also be removed to permit the hub to move outwards.
The vehicle was on axle stands with both sides stripped down.

 

[Bison be]

I've seen on YouTube drive shafts being removed from the diff end by unbolting the lower ball joint from the lower arm.
So if I remember correctly without undoing the driveshaft outer nut.
Then swing out the whole hub.
I guess stabiliser links , brake hoses , anti roll bar fixings etc. must also be removed to permit the hub to move outwards.
The vehicle was on axle stands with both sides stripped down.

I´ve seen the same videos i think. Did it like this the first time. This time i removed the driveshafts completely and replaced them. Both had wear and the right side also had play in the intermediate bearing. It´s a lot easier to install when the driveshaft is disconnected from the wheelhub. I also disconnected the lower ball joint, anti rollbar and track rod end. Especially this last one makes it much easier to move the hub.
So far no leaks.

 

[Bison be]

Aaaaaand, it's leaking on the driversside again. I used a "stark" brand from autodoc. Anyone have any experiance with those? Are they often out of spec or something?
Passenger side is a corteco brand and dry.

 

[jackwhoo]

just get a known good brand of oil seal like....corteco
Stark is autodoc own branding...could be from anyway cheaply made

 

[Bison be]

just get a known good brand of oil seal like....corteco
Stark is autodoc own branding...could be from anyway cheaply made

I Found a UK website that had the parts listed both oem and "Fast" brand. Is Fast a good brand?
Can´t find the correct one from corteco but this Fast one should be the right one.
Not looking forward to replacing it for the 3rd time, but at least i´ve had some practice now
Worst thing is the left side one wasn´t leaking at first but it said if i´m doing 1 side (rightside) i might as well do both so i don´t have to bother with it anymore....

 

[Jakeroyd]

It must be profoundly maddening to get a leak after all that work.
When you replace the seal and then reassemble the driveshaft be very careful not to nick the seal lip in any way with the shaft.
Some shaft oil seals have guards on to reduce this( like a hard annulus on the outside face) some do not.
I engineered olseals for Landrover for some years.
On the assembly line this was a source of leaks and rectification.

 

[jackwhoo]

Fast do not make the parts , they buy them in cheap and brand them fast.
Find the correct fiat part number and google it.
You may end up getting the seal from Fiat at least From Fiat it will be a good brand.

 

[Bison be]

Ordered an oem mopar one, 3rd time's the charm I hope