a rusty wheelarch will fail if its considered dangerous ie sharp edges! a bit of a dog rough, scabby arch wont fail, the uno turbo had 4 wheel arch spats, and its the metal clips that first promote corrosion, thats why i didnt re-use mine. you should of filled the ut with spares whilst there, or here (im in manchester) where abouts did you buy it from (salford he he ) Ant!
General Reasons why I SHOULD buy a mk2 unoT
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General Reasons why I SHOULD buy a mk2 unoT
I must have misread, I thought he meant the inner rear arches or turrets, my bad 
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oh god NO. if the inner archs were atall even questionable I would have RAN away.
they were repaired (pretty well) with neat metal plates on both sides, and the underside all sprayed up, the outer side of the new metal plates still needs protected.
no its the outer arches.out of courosty today I cleaned the car down and pulled off the plastic rear arch spats. passenger side looks alright, a bit of blistering where that metal clip is and a worse bit just above it. but the drivers side is all pretty soft underneath the plastic about half th way round.
I took some pics, but was too dark to get any close ups.pictures are appauling as it was almost dark, but you can get the jist, passenger side nothing much to note other than door (easy replaced), drivers side you can see infront of the wheel there is a large scab (2-4" diameter and soft as you like) thats gonna show no matter whether I do a metal plate welded in, or filler :thumbdown:
you can just see it on the drivers side wing, infront of the wheel, the scab.
you've also gotta remember I'm a complete perfectionist, I'll fuss about anything. and those of you that have met me at meets and that will know I will bang on about the smallest thing (boot lights not working in particular LOL).
they were repaired (pretty well) with neat metal plates on both sides, and the underside all sprayed up, the outer side of the new metal plates still needs protected.
no its the outer arches.out of courosty today I cleaned the car down and pulled off the plastic rear arch spats. passenger side looks alright, a bit of blistering where that metal clip is and a worse bit just above it. but the drivers side is all pretty soft underneath the plastic about half th way round.
I took some pics, but was too dark to get any close ups.pictures are appauling as it was almost dark, but you can get the jist, passenger side nothing much to note other than door (easy replaced), drivers side you can see infront of the wheel there is a large scab (2-4" diameter and soft as you like) thats gonna show no matter whether I do a metal plate welded in, or filler :thumbdown:
you can just see it on the drivers side wing, infront of the wheel, the scab.
you've also gotta remember I'm a complete perfectionist, I'll fuss about anything. and those of you that have met me at meets and that will know I will bang on about the smallest thing (boot lights not working in particular LOL).
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for 700 quid mate it doesnt look bad
i think it looks pretty good mate! but then again, mine always looked fine before i pulled it apart lolonly thing id do, is take the red stripe off and the white thing on the bottom of the doors cos i never remember them being fitted as standard on a UT and they look pretty nasty lol
Dunc
close ups of corrosion? for some reason the first of the mk2's G&H reg suffered more rust, i could see that someone had sprayed a tiny amount of waxoil (not nearly enough)over my inner rear wheelarches, wherever fiat did it who knows? thats one of the first things you should do, make sure she is watertight and dry then inject all inner sills and areas that are prone to rust, as the damp is coming Ant!
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trying to get some better pics loaded up, got pics of all the rust patchs that are worth mentioning (everything except door bottoms)
passenger side rear 3/4 panel, this is pretty solid underneath the plastic, just this one blister, but its solid, can be tarted up.
roof rear rail, again, just blistering this is on the drivers side (the bad side).
this is th worst of it, the drivers side rear 3/4 under the plastic is almost all soft an flakey, with a big gapping hole (well it will be if I breath on it) where that blister mark is (wheel arch clip area ).
boot, next to the passenger side light, that crack is in the outer layer of metal, the inner layer is solid/ I'm dreading whats actually underneath the bumper.
drivers side A pillar, solid, just surface blistering from a badly fitted windscreen (now sorted)
passenger side rear window hinge, its again just surface rust, and could be plated over if its bad then the black stuff will mask it.
WTF a bleed valve? is it not? anyway, I fiddled with it then went for a drive and found it was back down to 0.65/0.7 bar at max, which is better (was boosting upto 0.95 bar!!! in 5th).
reckon this is affecting its idle as well, and the fact its running rich as hell all the time.
don't know why all the photos below are blurred! was a bright day, at widest apertre and iso400 shoulda broken out the tripod
ok heres some extiorers after I cleaned it up a bit...
seats are mint.
dash and clocks is mint and all works pretty spot on
passenger side rear 3/4 panel, this is pretty solid underneath the plastic, just this one blister, but its solid, can be tarted up.
roof rear rail, again, just blistering this is on the drivers side (the bad side).
this is th worst of it, the drivers side rear 3/4 under the plastic is almost all soft an flakey, with a big gapping hole (well it will be if I breath on it) where that blister mark is (wheel arch clip area
).
boot, next to the passenger side light, that crack is in the outer layer of metal, the inner layer is solid/ I'm dreading whats actually underneath the bumper.
drivers side A pillar, solid, just surface blistering from a badly fitted windscreen (now sorted)
passenger side rear window hinge, its again just surface rust, and could be plated over if its bad then the black stuff will mask it.
WTF a bleed valve? is it not? anyway, I fiddled with it then went for a drive and found it was back down to 0.65/0.7 bar at max, which is better (was boosting upto 0.95 bar!!! in 5th).
reckon this is affecting its idle as well, and the fact its running rich as hell all the time.
don't know why all the photos below are blurred! was a bright day, at widest apertre and iso400
shoulda broken out the tripod ok heres some extiorers after I cleaned it up a bit...
seats are mint.
dash and clocks is mint and all works pretty spot on
looks like you need one of these, notice how its trimmed down to just replace the rust, as when you get the repair panel, £18 you get a lot you dont need, i used a nibbler or an airsaw to trim it down, as for the rest of the rust it looks like it needs to be sorted before they turn to holes, have you had it on a jack and poked about underneath, floor to sill, inner rear arches etc Ant!
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repair panel? OH,I think I'll have a pair of them to go please!! :yum: where from, and how big do they come?
I got the car to a garage before payment (the MOT garage) and inspected underneat. it was near mint, just exhaust hangers had the usual surface corrosion.
there IS a split in the floor pan starting to fester under the drivers seat, but I can sort that pretty easily, its just a bit of crusty surface flakes, no where near as bad as anything on the rest of the car.
all the towing eyes seem solid, and the front, left and right rails that the body.engine sits on look and feel solid, not even blemished, so I don't think its ever had an accident.
ANT could you pM me or just tell me where I can get the repair panels from. thanks
I got the car to a garage before payment (the MOT garage) and inspected underneat. it was near mint, just exhaust hangers had the usual surface corrosion.
there IS a split in the floor pan starting to fester under the drivers seat, but I can sort that pretty easily, its just a bit of crusty surface flakes, no where near as bad as anything on the rest of the car.
all the towing eyes seem solid, and the front, left and right rails that the body.engine sits on look and feel solid, not even blemished, so I don't think its ever had an accident.
ANT could you pM me or just tell me where I can get the repair panels from. thanks
trying to remember where i got them? probably from my local bodyshop suppliers (supertune, brown brothers, abc panels, hadrian, etc, type in google there out there, even if your back panel behind the bumper is fooked they are under £30 and easy to fit, remove the door apeture seals and the plastic trim held by 5 or 6 screws ( when you open the doors the long plastic trim that holds the carpet down on the top of the sill) and check there, thats a hot spot from floor to sill, have you a hobby mig you can use? Ant!
That's a fair bit of rust on there Faster4, though I've seen much worse!
As Ant! says, the first thing you need to do is give it a really good going over to look for rust, especially the floor pan and structural points. If those have holed you're looking at an expensive job to get the shell MOT'able again, plus the chances are the rot will come back.
If it's structurally sound you need to decide what you want out of the car. Do you want a fun car that looks nice from a distance but shabby close up, or an immaculate Uno that you can take to shows and cruises? If you want a fast and fun car and aren't too worried as to what it looks like then grind out the rust with a drill and wire brush, patch it up with rustkiller, zinc primer, some filler and then spray some cans of spray paint to just make it look a bit tidier.
But if you want to make it look really nice then it's going to get expensive. From what you've shown in the photos, if you had those rusty areas repaired by a pro bodyshop you'll be looking at £100's to sort it. By the time they've cut out rust, bought and welded in new panels, prepped and prepared the areas plus sprayed them you'll be talking about a lot of hours in labour. That's where the costs start mounting up.
When you get to this kind of situation you'll find it is MUCH cheaper to simply re-shell into a better shell to begin with. Not only that but with a clean shell you've a better chance of resisting any further rust in the future. It's not that difficult either - if all goes to plan you can carry out a re-shell in a weekend.
Remember as well that Ants! UT and his mk2 Golf look immaculate because he is a pro bodywork specialist and he has the skills and also access to equipment most people don't have. Believe me, a tub a filler, fibreglass and half a dozen rattle cans will not make a pro job that will last!
Either way, I wish you luck with your UT and being an 'H' plate it's quite an early mk2. Fingers crossed the floor pan is sound and you can go about tidying up. It already looks nice in the photos (apart from the white stripe thingy!) so hopefully a bit of tidying will keep another UT terrorising the streets where they belong
As Ant! says, the first thing you need to do is give it a really good going over to look for rust, especially the floor pan and structural points. If those have holed you're looking at an expensive job to get the shell MOT'able again, plus the chances are the rot will come back.
If it's structurally sound you need to decide what you want out of the car. Do you want a fun car that looks nice from a distance but shabby close up, or an immaculate Uno that you can take to shows and cruises? If you want a fast and fun car and aren't too worried as to what it looks like then grind out the rust with a drill and wire brush, patch it up with rustkiller, zinc primer, some filler and then spray some cans of spray paint to just make it look a bit tidier.
But if you want to make it look really nice then it's going to get expensive. From what you've shown in the photos, if you had those rusty areas repaired by a pro bodyshop you'll be looking at £100's to sort it. By the time they've cut out rust, bought and welded in new panels, prepped and prepared the areas plus sprayed them you'll be talking about a lot of hours in labour. That's where the costs start mounting up.
When you get to this kind of situation you'll find it is MUCH cheaper to simply re-shell into a better shell to begin with. Not only that but with a clean shell you've a better chance of resisting any further rust in the future. It's not that difficult either - if all goes to plan you can carry out a re-shell in a weekend.
Remember as well that Ants! UT and his mk2 Golf look immaculate because he is a pro bodywork specialist and he has the skills and also access to equipment most people don't have. Believe me, a tub a filler, fibreglass and half a dozen rattle cans will not make a pro job that will last!
Either way, I wish you luck with your UT and being an 'H' plate it's quite an early mk2. Fingers crossed the floor pan is sound and you can go about tidying up. It already looks nice in the photos (apart from the white stripe thingy!) so hopefully a bit of tidying will keep another UT terrorising the streets where they belong
This place does loads of Uno body panels at good prices:
http://bap.dominohosting.biz/bap/bapdb01.nsf/$$ViewTemplate%20for%20MakeModel!OpenForm&RestrictToCategory=FIAT%20UNO%20(01/90-95)
If that link doesn't work try the home page and look in the Fiat Uno body panels sections:
http://www.beeversautopanels.co.uk/
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spot on!! thanks for that link!!!!
I can just about weld bits and bobs, but no where near th standard thats required to weld a wing on by myself, rear panel I think I'll take a new one of them, and not sure whether to get a brand new door, door bottom or find a used one? (seems theres not many uno's at scrappies nowadays , one guy I spoke to had't seen an uno in any shape or form in 5years!!).
a wing repair panel would be ideal for the (better) passenger side, but the driver s side has blisters all round th window and that (could be sanded down, but they will probably come back).
I can just about weld bits and bobs, but no where near th standard thats required to weld a wing on by myself, rear panel I think I'll take a new one of them, and not sure whether to get a brand new door, door bottom or find a used one? (seems theres not many uno's at scrappies nowadays
, one guy I spoke to had't seen an uno in any shape or form in 5years!!).a wing repair panel would be ideal for the (better) passenger side, but the driver s side has blisters all round th window and that (could be sanded down, but they will probably come back).
That is a fair amount of rust. To stop rust coming back get the angle grinder with a wire crimp cup and takes off all the rust and paint around the affected area. Please ensure you wear goggles, thick leather gloves etc, these things are leathal.
You really need to cut rust out to make it go away, with the plastic covers you can probably hide a rear wheel arch patch behind the plastics, stuff on A/B pillers get some black plastic to cover over once you've ground the weld beads down. I tend to use Zirconium Fibre discs to grind the beads down.
Good luck and keep us posted on progress!
You really need to cut rust out to make it go away, with the plastic covers you can probably hide a rear wheel arch patch behind the plastics, stuff on A/B pillers get some black plastic to cover over once you've ground the weld beads down. I tend to use Zirconium Fibre discs to grind the beads down.
Good luck and keep us posted on progress!
