General Reasons why I SHOULD buy a mk2 unoT

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General Reasons why I SHOULD buy a mk2 unoT

faster4_tec

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Please god someone stop me from buying one :D

my punto's g'box is about to implode and its suspension ain't much better, hoping to get rid before it does ;)


seen a few on fleabay, its the met green mk2 in manchester and its MINE!! its had some welding, fresh stuff on th sill tops, and some 2yrs+ welding on the turrets, which are starting to look a bit iffy again.


just a few quick q's.

how many mpg's would I expect (worst and best) from a good std mk2.
how tough are the g'box's on the mk2's? same as mk1?
common engine problems? heard about the airflow sensor (MASS) the wires in hem tend to go? easy replacement, or proverbial rocking horse poop?
can they be relied on as a daily runner?
what are they like on the motorway :confused: mpg's, revs @ 80.

I'm up for overhauling engines/suspension/body stabilsation. but serious body welding/gearbox overhauls/electronics aren't in my grasp.
 
any idea what they go for now? I was hoping it would be under the £800 mark for not the tidiest runner but with a test.


also any way of putting a mk1 grill/lights onto a mk2? just really like the mk1's looks but a good mk1 seems to be double the value of a good mk2!

also is value still dropping, or are they picking up again now?
 
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Please god someone stop me from buying one :D

my punto's g'box is about to implode and its suspension ain't much better, hoping to get rid before it does ;)


seen a few on fleabay, its the met green mk2 in manchester and its MINE!! its had some welding, fresh stuff on th sill tops, and some 2yrs+ welding on the turrets, which are starting to look a bit iffy again.

Just buy it ;)

I'm no expert on the UT's (you need AlexGS, Jai, DuncUT, LouieB, Oldskoolmk1Turbo, Biz etc. to answer in more detail. I'll answer what I can though.

just a few quick q's.

how many mpg's would I expect (worst and best) from a good std mk2.

All depends on how you drive and how standard (or not) the car is! Thrash it and I think you can go down into the low 20's. Drive it off boost and 40+mpg is not out of the question.

how tough are the g'box's on the mk2's? same as mk1?

Mk2 gearboxes are tougher than mk1's as they are based on the Tipo gearbox. Mk1 gearbox was based on the 1500 Strada box. There's also two types of mk1 gearbox - top change or bottom change. The earliest cars use the bottom change gearbox.

common engine problems?

Surprisingly few and pretty much the same as normal engine problems. Turbo oil seals can go leading to smoking exhaust and headgaskets can go with obvious results. Oil leaks from the cam carrier and, well, I can't think of that much else.

heard about the airflow sensor (MASS) the wires in hem tend to go? easy replacement, or proverbial rocking horse poop?

Don't know. You need to speak to one of the turbo boys.

can they be relied on as a daily runner?

Yes, UT's can be surprisingly reliable but some parts are starting to get very hard to find. They will wear out if you drive them (obviously!) so you might have trouble buying some spares over the counter when wear and tear items need replacing.

what are they like on the motorway :confused: mpg's, revs @ 80.

Depends on how heavy your right foot is ;)

Put it this way, my mk1 45S does 3500rpm at 80mph so a turbo is not far away from that. They do well at high'ish cruising speed because being light and powerful you won't need much boost at that kind of cruising speed. I'd say no less than 35mpg and more likely into the 40's if you keep it off boost. Kick the boost in all the time and expect fuel consumption to rise rapidly.

I'm up for overhauling engines/suspension/body stabilsation. but serious body welding/gearbox overhauls/electronics aren't in my grasp.

That's the biggest problem now as UT's are old cars and not the best in terms of rust resistance. I'd say 9 out of 10 will have had welding done at some point with only those that have done miniscule mileages or been garaged most of their lives resisting rust better. You WILL have to expect rust on any UT unless you find a museum piece.

Electrical problems are surprisingly few. Most are attributed to corroded earths or tired electric windows/ central locking. The engine ECU rarely gives problems unless the wiring connectors are dodgy.

any idea what they go for now? I was hoping it would be under the £800 mark for not the tidiest runner but with a test.

Prices vary wildly. A complete buy scruffy UT without an MOT is going for around £400 - £500 now. The days of £100 parts cars are all but extinct.

Mk1's go for more than mk2's, and £750 should get you an MOT'd mk2 runner in tidy condition but needing work. A mk1 UT might have an MOT at that price but could well need a lot more work/ money spent on it. For a good conditioned tidy mk1 with long MOT expect to be paying around £1000 as mk1oldskoolturbo says. Immaculate cars can go for a lot more than that.

also any way of putting a mk1 grill/lights onto a mk2? just really like the mk1's looks but a good mk1 seems to be double the value of a good mk2!

Yes it is possible. You need the mk1 bonnet, slam panel with headlight bowls, wings, mk1 turbo bumper plus mk1 indicators and headlights. You can also fit the mk1 turbo plastic tailgate to a mk2 by relocating the hinges and fitting mk1 rear lights.

Your other option is to find a clean mk1 shell and transplant all the UT parts into it though you'll end up with a mk1 UT with an identity crisis!

However, mk2 turbo values are only likely to follow mk1's so it might be better to try and keep it standard? Don't forget that the mk1 has a totally different interior/ dashboard to the mk2 so you'd end up with a bit of a bitsa if you just changed the front end.

also is value still dropping, or are they picking up again now?

They've been picking up for the past few years and mk1 prices are starting to go through the roof... If you are going to get one now is the time as prices are only likely to continue rising. To give you an example 3 door base model (non turbo) mk1's have been going for £200+ on Ebay whereas they were going for £50 only a couple of years ago. More likely being bought by rusty turbo owners looking to re-shell ;)
 
80mph is about 4000rpm on a mk1, as for advice all the above, and what i always say to potential owners, be prepared for a massive amount of work mixed with screaming fits at the inevitable breakdowns, bits falling off, bits going wrong, the impossibility of aquiring replacements, new, secondhand or recon. the price gouging when you do find them, and overall what can on certain days be the most miserable ownership experience in the world....

this however is to be tempered with the undeniable fact that what you will own is small, light, nimble, relatively powerful, explosively accelarative and quick. cold dry mornings will become your favourite time to drive, b-roads will tempt you to press on, and the car will feel like a glove around you.

in short, offer her total commitment, and she'll reward you like no modern electronically controlled moster powered warm hatch ever could
 
I would say £800 for a Mk2 with MOT/ some TAX in less than mint condition with evidence of welding like the sills and floor, rear arches mentioned but it certainly shouldn't need any significant work to get that sort of money. If in doubt pay for an MOT to check that the car is roadworthy. It needs to have all trim and undamaged and no evidence of body rust to get more than that. The Mk1 cars are the ones to buy and much more desirable than a Mk2 in my opinion. Uno Turbos aren't particularly rare cars and some owners seriously overvalue their rot boxes and are selling nothing but tatty heaps so don't overpay.

Known problems - anything electrical, check windows work, standard suspension is crap, make sure it doesn't smoke at all from cold, when warm, on boost, coming off boost, if it does it'll need some sort of engine or turbo work. Check all along the sills where they meet the floor pan, check the rear arches esp for rot, give it a poke on any rot, if you can see it, it's probably worse than it looks, check no obviously rust around front arches, can rust around sunroof, bottom of doors, check under sill covers if possible since they can hide rotten sills, Make sure it achieves boost and holds it, can't remember exactly but the turbo should probably boost up from 2500rpm onwards. Look for a service history they should have had an oil change every 3000 miles. Preferrably buy a clean car, unmodified or one which has been obviously well maintained rather than bought thrashed and flogged on, spend a bit more and you'll get a much better car which will give you fewer headaches. Good luck.
 
dont really know what to add to whats been said.

AFM's do give up and are known for it on the mk2's. getting hold of them is getting harder, and actually repairing them is near impossible as they are a sealed unit and u cant get into them to rewire them.

rust is ur main problem, electrical probs can be an issue, but ive not really ever come accross them.

boxes are strong, the clutches not so. depending on how the cars been driven will determin how good the clutch is!

prices are going up, which to me is a good thing, and prices for spares are getting higher, which again, is good to me, as i have loads of spares and parts lol :d

Dunc
 
spot on thanks guys!!!

well I've asked the seller half a page of questions, which I assume he's trying to reply to me with (pictures). I'm not gonna bid too much for it as I don't want to end up with a rotbox that I can't get half the value of it back again.

the guy seems to have/have had quite a few UT's so hopefully he's selling one thats in good nick that he no longer has a use for, rather than one thats beyond fesability and he's getting rid (probably likely unfortunatly).



I CAN do basic body restoration and rust stabilsation, but I can't start tearing off the entire rear 3/4 panel, fab a new one, weld back on, respray/protect the whole thing, that WOULD be beyond me.

so if I kill a g'box the tipo 1.4 box would fit? and as for clutchs I've read duncs thread and heard his problems trying to get aftermarket ones to fit. TBH I'm not going for mega power, just std and drive it regular :)
 
the late top change mk1 gearboxs are based on tipo and are just as strong as the mk2 box. the early bottom change mk1 boxes are weak. my red mk1 had standard clutch and never slipped and it took years of abuse, i only had to replace it because the thrust bearing snapped
 
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Well i have a completly standard MK2 UT

Has been absolulty flawless since the day i brough it!

MPG = Ive got 61 miles from £10 (Round town on-off boost and open A-ROADS)

Motorway cruising, just that.......a cruise, you can toe it in ANY GEAR AT ANY REVS and they just pick up and go like a scalded dog!

Ive gone from 40mph to 120mph in 5th in not much time! lol

As for general running issues, ive had none.
I put in fuel and go! (And oil because of the oil cooler pipes, lol)

Ive lauched it hard @ 3,500RPM (Maximum torque) with the clutch half-engaged and the handbrake holding it and got well under 7sec's to 60 with the slightest bit of clutch slip! :slayer:

The only real problem is with these cars it the ****ing ****(s) that had it before you and what they've done to it, that applys to any car really but make it a pain in the arse when you own it!
 
thats the only problem, prevous owners.

but TBH I've come to accept that anything other than new, handdelivered from the factory by fairies will not have been abused.

there are still quite a few more uT's about that I thought, but seems a lot have been chavved. this one I'm looking at seems to be owned by a uT knutt :cool: (the one with the minty black hormann kit'd mk1). anyway, this one looks factory other than a silver boost pipe on top of the manifold.


Another reason for me buying something the complete opposite of what I wanted (wanted an econical surf van from de deusheland :cool: and a small motorbike for day to day running about, and what I'm going for now is a resonably quick thirsty old rust bucket :rolleyes: :eek:
hell maybe the fact it DOES drink so much will make me walk around more and use my pushbike

saving the planet AND saving an uT? sounds like some kind of deal to me :yum:
 
meh. Just get one and regret it later :p You only live once (y)

If you look after it, it will look after you. None of my Uno Turbos had engine problems. They were all superb and have no blatently obvious common engine problems. The only real problems with Uno are rot and rust. Get a good shell and your laughing.
 
only real problems with Uno are rot and rust. Get a good shell and your laughing.

(y)
Fantasticly put mate!

Like Lobster (Turbo collective Founder) said to me "Never mess with a well sorted UT!" :devil:

Im on my 2nd MK2 Turbo (3rd Turbo in total) with no regrets.
 
My MK2 UT is modified to the max (183kw @1.2bar) and is also used as our daily drive and that little car just hardly ever gives problems. That enjines are really strong, but you have to take care of it.

Yeah!!! Just the rust that's a little problem.
 
ah got me worried now.

no idea what standard boost is (maybe 8-10psi?) could it be hiked to ~ 13/14psi with much gain/problems. heard that 0.85bar can be attained with the std ickle t2 garrett item, and TBH I'm unlikly to change it, already got 2working turbos at home and a duffer that was going to be mixed with a working one for hybrid fun wiht another car, but it never happend :rolleyes:
 
ah got me worried now.

no idea what standard boost is (maybe 8-10psi?) could it be hiked to ~ 13/14psi with much gain/problems. heard that 0.85bar can be attained with the std ickle t2 garrett item, and TBH I'm unlikly to change it, already got 2working turbos at home and a duffer that was going to be mixed with a working one for hybrid fun wiht another car, but it never happend :rolleyes:

I think standard boost is 0.5 bar. Can be wound up to 1.0 bar with the standard turbo charger, though to go any higher you need a hybrid or bigger turbo.

The turbo boys will confirm as I'm not that au fait with the turbo engine :eek:
 
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