Re: Rear resilient bushes - replacement? *update*
Okay replaced these over the weekend on the rear of the Uno.
Firstly, it fixed the problem I was experiencing (creaking & knocking at the rear on uneven & cambered roads).
The job itself is reasonably easy, dependent on how seized up some of the bolts may be.
You'll need the usual tools (spanners, sockets, etc). But you'll also need a special tool (a two legged puller). Screwfix in the UK do these at a reasonable price.
The job (preperation).
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1. Undo the shock bolt in the boot, so that when you jack the car up the shock will slip out of the hole.
2. Get the car up on axle stands at the rear, so that both wheels are not on the ground.
3. Remove both wheels.
4. As the rear trailing arm should be slack, twist and remove the rear springs.
The job (removing the bush).
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5. Get a jack to support under the resilient bush pivot.
6. Undo the bolt that goes through the arm-bush-subframe of the car. (This bolt is likely to be seized, and I'd recommend a replacement fresh nut & bolt).
7. With the nut removed, and the part supported. Tap the bolt out of the parts.
8. Lower the jack, and push the arm down out of the subrame retainer.
9. You'll now be able to see the bush fully. From the side you'll see a the round edge, with the centre alloy bolt hole.
10. Using the puller as a pusher, twist the alloy bolt hole out of the bush. It will be worn and corroded, and although tight it should come out (that and lots of rust too).
11 Once the alloys bolt hole is removed, get a flat blade screwdriver and lever the bush out of the arm.
12. Clean the open hole up, put some brake fluid, or similar lubricant on the new bush, and push in with your fingers. (It will just sit in the hole, but you won be able to push it all the way in).
13. With a rubber headed mallet, hammer the bush home. You may find it still won't go all the way in, with just a couple of millimeters to go. Use a flat blade and lever the inside edge of the bush/arm inwards and this should do the trick.
14. Jack arm back up to the subframe retainer, and line up the holes, so you can replace the supporting pivot bolt. Tighten fully.
The other side (part explanation)
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15. Now get round to the otherside. This is slightly different, as a brake line is in the way of the bolt removal. You'll need to undo the pivot bolt and nut fully, but you won't be able to remove and replace the bolt. To do this follow these instructions:
16. Support the arm with a jack again.
17. Underneath the car, there are four supporting bolts for the subframe retainer bracket - undo and remove these.
18. Lower the jack, and the arm will come down with it.
19. Working with the brake line bracket (welded to the subframe retainer bracket), remove the clip on the front side of the brake line bracket, then carefully bend the bracket in order to make room to remove the arm pivot bolt.
20. Follow the above instructions on how to remove the bush, and replace. But remember to unbend the brake bracket once complete, and to re-clip the line back up.
You'll need to refit the car back to together. When you refit the rear shocks to the top mounts, you'll find it easer to remove the top mount altogether, and then attach to the shock, then push down and re-attach to the car.
I'd recommend replacing the top mounts at the same time, they're not expensive, and will almost likely be worn, as they tend wear prematurely, with the shock busting through the rubber bush on the mount.
Conclusion.
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From a car which was rough, and noisy at the back, so smooth and very quiet, I can only recommend this. The bushes are only £8 each. And, although the job is a bit of a pig - with the possibility of seized bolts - it's still a 100% improvement on my car. And even if you're only getting the occasional rattle, it may be worth doing on your own Uno. As the original bush become hardened, and cracked over time, so the extra "give" will allow for a ride which is better composed and quieter.
