Technical Rear brake pads?

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Technical Rear brake pads?

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My 66 plate Turismo is in for service and MoT today. Garage have just rung me to say the service is done but the pads are 2mm and really the discs need doing. They are hoping that the MoT tester will still pass it with an advisory so I can then do them myself.

I've just gone onto carparts4less and Eurocarparts websites. They have front and rear discs and front pads, but neither seem to have rear pads? Are they the same as the front?
 
Hi,

I think rears are a smaller diameter disc/rotor so pads are not the same. You probably also need ones with wear sensors albeit mine came with them on the rear and I just cut them off as none fitted on rear of the sport.

Very strange thing we noticed though both with front and rear set up and it appears the design of the brakes mating discs to pads is quite a difference looking at the wear pattern.

My car was picked up as an advisory for brake pads low but when we stripped them down to fit new discs and pads there was actually plenty of thickness on the pads but the wear on the disc had created a deep groove that covered over the edge of the pad and made the thickness look thinner.

That said your car should have wera sensors so if not giving a warning then I don't see why the MoT should fail and hopefully just get an advisory.

Look closely at the edge of the disc and see if there is a step on the edge as it maybe worth a change too. Nothing was particulary expensive and we actually changed the rear hub bearings too.

I like the coated discs we got as it keeps the discs looking shiny new on the inner and outer areas that usually all rust up. Obviously the pads wear the coating off where they ccontact but as that shines up everytime the car is used looking through the wheels everything always looks like new.

Farrah
 
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Thanks for that. They did say that the discs really need doing too. Cars only done 15k, didn't expect to have to change manufacturer fitted discs just yet.

Nobody seems to sell the pads, even on eBay the compatibility checker says not suitable. Mine's the 165BHP one, not sure if it makes any difference to the 140BHP ones.
 
Just a thought, but what diameter are the rear discs? It's just possible that some of the parts are the same as the front setup on one of the 'cooking' models.

Personally I wouldn't sweat over the wear indicators; if you can find a dimensionally identical set that's lacking this 'feature', they'll still work fine. Most of the time, some other part of the brake system usually fails before the pad with the sensor in it, and regular maintenance will easily pick up a worn pad if done properly.

I wouldn't sweat over the compatibility checker either. Whenever ECP has a choice of parts, half the time the compatibility checker gives you the wrong ones anyway.

I like the coated discs we got as it keeps the discs looking shiny new on the inner and outer areas that usually all rust up. Obviously the pads wear the coating off where they ccontact but as that shines up everytime the car is used looking through the wheels everything always looks like new.

yeahthat.gif


The Pagid discs from Euro have a similar coating. Much easier than having to degrease off the usual muck some of them come packed with.

Cars only done 15k, didn't expect to have to change manufacturer fitted discs just yet.

Depends so much on use; I've seen 60k+ from pads on a carefully driven road car, and also seen a newly fitted set worn out after a single trackday. Hint: dedicated ecodrivers generally don't buy 165BHP small hatchbacks. With modern friction materials, time is a factor also; there's a high iron content in the pads (and obviously the discs), so corrosion plays a part too - though you rarely notice this, as the pads & discs are swept clean each time you drive the car.
 
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The reason they called me today was that when servicing it they said about 2mm on pads and discs really needed doing too.

They were giving me the opportunity to take it away and do them before the MoT. I said let’s take a chance that they just come up as an advisory.

Got a call back this afternoon saying it’s past the MoT without any mention of the brakes.

I still need to sort out the squeak coming from the rear so I will most likely take the pads out and grease them up anyway.

Saves me some cash if they don’t really need doing yet.
 
The reason they called me today was that when servicing it they said about 2mm on pads and discs really needed doing too.

They were giving me the opportunity to take it away and do them before the MoT. I said let’s take a chance that they just come up as an advisory.

Got a call back this afternoon saying it’s past the MoT without any mention of the brakes.

I still need to sort out the squeak coming from the rear so I will most likely take the pads out and grease them up anyway.

Saves me some cash if they don’t really need doing yet.

Hi, That is good news and always a relief to get a pass on an MoT.

However.......'squeak' or is it a 'squeal'..............squeaks are usually suspension bush issues and squeals more usual around brakes


The total cost of mine which was new rotors/discs front/rear, new pads front rear and complete new bearings and rear hub assemblies was just over £100 in parts.

It was a job well worth doing as just one front brake pad was found much more worn than any other in comparison and this was down to the slave side of the caliper being stiff in one of the sliding joints. These were all parted and cleaned up and rubber greased as it is just a metal shaft sliding inside a rubber tube.

Pictures show the front coated disc and the contact area of the pad to disc. The shiny silver edge around the circumference would by now be all rusted had it not been a coated disc.

Farrah
 

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Yes, the caliper pins will be bone dry.

I stripped my Panda 4x4's brakes down soon after buying it new as the brakes groaned and squeaked from the off.
Turned out there wasn't even a trace of brake grease anywhere.

When I had my Abarth from new the rear hummed a bit in reverse, it had to go back for a dodgy decal on the side so I asked them to strip and grease them while it was in.

The service manager looked at me oddly, so I bet him if there's a dab of grease front or back, I'd pay for the job.
He never took the bet!
 
With 2mm they obviously still need doing soon.

They are I believe very similar to the discs and pads on the rear of my punto. You will need to wind the caliper back in which you can buy a tool for, they are fairly easy to sort out yourself.

I have done a video on the rear discs and pads for my punto they are very similar but there may be some little difference but it’s probably a good reference, I’m sure that someone has done rear discs and pads on YouTube for a 500 Turismo
 
I’m doing mine tomorrow, 11,000 miles and squealing at low speed. Techs at work tell me the pads seize in the carriers.

I don't know if all the cars use the same callipers as mine were a Lucas design and I do see cars advertised with Brembo.

That said Simon is quite correct if dealing with the Lucas design as the top and bottom ears of the pads just slide in stainless steel carriers. There were no 'pins' in mine albeit I did see these being removed on the youtube video but again the callipers being shown were not the same as mine.

The pads were removed by first taking off part of the calliper with just the two bolts screwing into the slide guides. There were no pins as the pads don't just slide out.

The lower stainless steel guides were contaminated with quite hard deposits that had to be scraped and cleaned and this is no doubt what can cause the pads to stick.

I see some brake pad kits come with these new guides and they just simply clip in but being stainless they cleaned up perfectly.

Yes on the rears you need a wind in tool but not on the fronts and don't forget to release the brake filler cap before pushing back pistons. I borrowed one off our local garage


If the same as mine the rears were a pain as removing one of the allen head bolts to remove the slave part of the calliper was not easy and again the youtube video said it was a 14mm hexhead bolt which would have been fine but the correct process if the allen heads is fitted instead is to remove the whole hub just to get the tool into the allen head bolt.:bang: Of course this is only needed to be done if changing the disc/rotors at the same time and not required to be done if just changing pads.

This is the links when I was struggling I got help on from the forum

https://www.fiatforum.com/500/481521-prince-darkness-fiat.html


https://www.fiatforum.com/500/481535-renewing-rear-hub-bearings-speed-sensor.html


Farrah
 

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The pins are there in your photo same design as 90% of sliding callipers bout sure why you said there aren't any pins?

I think he means the different design of calipers where you have a metal pin that goes through a hole in the back of the brake pads securing them into the Caliper but it still lets the pads move in and out. I remember my old SAAB had brakes like this and it’s the standard design for performance brakes like brembo.
 
I think he means the different design of calipers where you have a metal pin that goes through a hole in the back of the brake pads securing them into the Caliper but it still lets the pads move in and out. I remember my old SAAB had brakes like this and it’s the standard design for performance brakes like brembo.


Absolutely correct Andy:p........'she' did refer to the usual pins that are slid into hold the pads in place. The you tube video I watched had these long retention pins on the calliper to retain/remove the pads without having to part the calliper. Although it was showing a 500 it was nothing like mine and it was jackwhoo who sent me the Abarth video which was same as mine. When I refer to the moving parts on the sliding callipers I usually say pistons or sliders rather than pins.

Farrah
 
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