Kev_marea
New member
Hey,
I have done My 2004 subframe replacement, I need the torque settings for
Subframe upper mounting to body (behind suspension strut) x2 M12
Subframe to rack-and-pinion steering gear x2 M12
Subframe to body outer x2 M12
Subframe to body inner x2 M12
Already got:
Lower Arm rear to subframe 110Nm x2
Lower Arm front to subframe 90Nm x2
Lower Arm balljoint pinch bolt 32Nm
Anti-roll bar mounting bolts 35Nm about 8 of them
And I'll have all the rest in the book aswell but the book does not give a guide to the subframe removal so no torque settings are give for the 8 subframe bolts.
If you are interested.. I found subframes in scrappies are very badly rusted, well the cars are all 10+ years old now, and price was £50 - 55 eventhough rusty.
The best scrappies in Cardiff, (K&L and Bill Way), would price at £40 but still rusty subframes. Anyway, I struck gold in Bill Way's yard, right at the back in the far left corner was a white Italian registered Punto, with an almost immacualte subframe. There's less rain and salt in Italy. I took it off myself in the yard for £40. Took it home and cleaned it all then wire brushed the flaky paint off, then wire brushed/grinded what little rust there was. Painted with a tin of basic red primer 500ml £7 Halfords. Would have been better to use a zinc oxide or a red oxide primer but I couldn't find any.
Painted with Hammerite Stone Chip / Black 600ml £7.40 (delivered) ebay
put the bolts in the holes when painting.
Also removed and painted the little brackets on the subframe "upper legs" which clip a wire into them probably the ABS wire.
Two new Lower Arms ebay £26 delivered
My Tips
I found best way to remove the lower ball joint was to use jack to support the wheel hub, then hammer a cold chisel or flatblade screwdriver into the balljoint pinch clamp to widen it a bit. Then use a long, strong metal tube about 2 feet long. Rest the metal tube on the little bit of the lower arm near the balljoint that sticks out a little bit. Then hit it with a lump hammer downwards and the balljoint comes out. If you use a separator tool, I find they damage the balljoint rubber so you have to use a new Lower arm. There is a small type of seperator tool that is a better design (does not damage the rubber) but you would have to make a cap for the balljoint so the tool does not slip off when you tighten it.
Reassembly of Lower arm:
Put in the lower arm and rear arm to subframe bolt,
Put a little oil on both sides of the front bush mount rubber on lower arm
clean the balljoint clamp hole with a rag up and down.
If you find -as I did- that the hub clamp is too far out to line up with the balljoint pin then likely that the driveshaft has come out from the engine a bit, so just wiggle and push the driveshaft back into the engine. and hey presto it lines up !
Simultaneously, by hand, push the balljoint pin up into the clamp and the front rubber up into the front of subframe.
push bolt through hole to hold ball joint pin in place, doing this by hand means you won't damage the ball joint rubber.
Finish off with trolley jack under the front bush mounting, and gently raise the bush till the hole is lined up for the bolt.
Simple
Just so you are aware I will not reply for 2 weeks, (going away hols)
I have done My 2004 subframe replacement, I need the torque settings for
Subframe upper mounting to body (behind suspension strut) x2 M12
Subframe to rack-and-pinion steering gear x2 M12
Subframe to body outer x2 M12
Subframe to body inner x2 M12
Already got:
Lower Arm rear to subframe 110Nm x2
Lower Arm front to subframe 90Nm x2
Lower Arm balljoint pinch bolt 32Nm
Anti-roll bar mounting bolts 35Nm about 8 of them
And I'll have all the rest in the book aswell but the book does not give a guide to the subframe removal so no torque settings are give for the 8 subframe bolts.
If you are interested.. I found subframes in scrappies are very badly rusted, well the cars are all 10+ years old now, and price was £50 - 55 eventhough rusty.
The best scrappies in Cardiff, (K&L and Bill Way), would price at £40 but still rusty subframes. Anyway, I struck gold in Bill Way's yard, right at the back in the far left corner was a white Italian registered Punto, with an almost immacualte subframe. There's less rain and salt in Italy. I took it off myself in the yard for £40. Took it home and cleaned it all then wire brushed the flaky paint off, then wire brushed/grinded what little rust there was. Painted with a tin of basic red primer 500ml £7 Halfords. Would have been better to use a zinc oxide or a red oxide primer but I couldn't find any.
Painted with Hammerite Stone Chip / Black 600ml £7.40 (delivered) ebay
put the bolts in the holes when painting.
Also removed and painted the little brackets on the subframe "upper legs" which clip a wire into them probably the ABS wire.
Two new Lower Arms ebay £26 delivered
My Tips
I found best way to remove the lower ball joint was to use jack to support the wheel hub, then hammer a cold chisel or flatblade screwdriver into the balljoint pinch clamp to widen it a bit. Then use a long, strong metal tube about 2 feet long. Rest the metal tube on the little bit of the lower arm near the balljoint that sticks out a little bit. Then hit it with a lump hammer downwards and the balljoint comes out. If you use a separator tool, I find they damage the balljoint rubber so you have to use a new Lower arm. There is a small type of seperator tool that is a better design (does not damage the rubber) but you would have to make a cap for the balljoint so the tool does not slip off when you tighten it.
Reassembly of Lower arm:
Put in the lower arm and rear arm to subframe bolt,
Put a little oil on both sides of the front bush mount rubber on lower arm
clean the balljoint clamp hole with a rag up and down.
If you find -as I did- that the hub clamp is too far out to line up with the balljoint pin then likely that the driveshaft has come out from the engine a bit, so just wiggle and push the driveshaft back into the engine. and hey presto it lines up !
Simultaneously, by hand, push the balljoint pin up into the clamp and the front rubber up into the front of subframe.
push bolt through hole to hold ball joint pin in place, doing this by hand means you won't damage the ball joint rubber.
Finish off with trolley jack under the front bush mounting, and gently raise the bush till the hole is lined up for the bolt.
Simple
Just so you are aware I will not reply for 2 weeks, (going away hols)
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