Hi All, I've got a 2005 Punto 1.3 Multijet. I find it extremely hard to start. The normal diesel engine stuff applies; turn the key, wait for the glow plug lights to go off (which in itself could be the problem; it only stays on for approximately 3 sec) and try to start the vehicle. The engine cranks fine, but it takes forever to start. (Sometime ten minutes of turning the engine over). I've spent a small or not so small fortune to replace the glow plugs, injectors and fuel pump, but still the problem persist. It also seems to lack a bit of power. Is there anyone with the same problem and have an answer to my problem or any suggestions? Pleeeeease:bang:
Technical Punto 1.3 Multijet Hard Starting
- Thread starter gandregg
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Punto 1.3 Multijet Hard Starting
Could be air intake? Or has the timing been touched before you had the problem
I haven't been driving it too long. I drove it for about a month before I had the work done. The vehicle has been in the workshop for three months now. They've given up trying. They've done the diesel pump. I have to assume they've also checked the timing. You are referring to the diesel pump timing? If you say air intake - any suggestion on where to start? Thanks for the help so far.
- Joined
- May 11, 2010
- Messages
- 22
- Points
- 5
Some more info on the problem please..
The car turns over, but does not fire at all? not the slightest cough or splutter? no evidence of firing up until it actually starts?
Or is it firing up but not staying running?
Also, does it struggle to start every time you go to it, or just occasionaly?
The car turns over, but does not fire at all? not the slightest cough or splutter? no evidence of firing up until it actually starts?
Or is it firing up but not staying running?
Also, does it struggle to start every time you go to it, or just occasionaly?
Last edited:
When you switch it of and immediately on again it is fine. Wait for the minutes and it could be a problem. It basically is hard to start every time. The only thing that differs is the length of time it take to start. Thanks for the help.
- Joined
- May 11, 2010
- Messages
- 22
- Points
- 5
Ok, had a similar fault on a Honda a few years back. Not sure if it will be the same thing but it could be something to check.
My fault was a dry soldered joint on the fuel injection relay. It ment that sometimes the relay would not click on when I turned the key, so while the car would turn over fine, no fuel would be fed into the cylinders and it would make no attempt to fire whatsoever. Sometimes it was ok straight away, sometimes it took 15 mins to start.
If your car has a similar relay controlled injection system, I would suggest checking this unit. For me, all I needed to do was remove the unit, open the lid, find the dry soldered joint, re-solder it and pop it all back together.
Actually easy to fix, but was very difficult to diagnose in the first place.
On my Honda the diagnosis was confirmed by listening for the realy click after the turning the ignition on to position II - if I turned the key to pos II, paused and waited 2 seconds and heard the click of the relay - I new it would start straight away. If there was no click, I knew it wasn't going to fire!
Doubt you will have exactly the same fault - but it does sound very similar. ie. no fuel is being sent to the engine at all. Since you have replaced the pump you must have fuel supply from the tank, it sounds like something further up the line is stopping the fuel.
James
My fault was a dry soldered joint on the fuel injection relay. It ment that sometimes the relay would not click on when I turned the key, so while the car would turn over fine, no fuel would be fed into the cylinders and it would make no attempt to fire whatsoever. Sometimes it was ok straight away, sometimes it took 15 mins to start.
If your car has a similar relay controlled injection system, I would suggest checking this unit. For me, all I needed to do was remove the unit, open the lid, find the dry soldered joint, re-solder it and pop it all back together.
Actually easy to fix, but was very difficult to diagnose in the first place.
On my Honda the diagnosis was confirmed by listening for the realy click after the turning the ignition on to position II - if I turned the key to pos II, paused and waited 2 seconds and heard the click of the relay - I new it would start straight away. If there was no click, I knew it wasn't going to fire!
Doubt you will have exactly the same fault - but it does sound very similar. ie. no fuel is being sent to the engine at all. Since you have replaced the pump you must have fuel supply from the tank, it sounds like something further up the line is stopping the fuel.
James
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2009
- Messages
- 19,975
- Points
- 3,976
Also check the fuel cutout stop relay is working and "of course" the fuel filter is new or at least low miles.
Hi Everyone, thanks for all the suggestions and advice.
James, I've checked the relays on the injectors. They have a double click about 15 seconds apart. From that I have to assume that the injection system is working fine.
Stumacd, yes the fuel filter was replaced.
Remember I said the problem was two fold; hard starting and performance. I decided that me and the workshop has spent enough time on the hard starting. (They've had the vehicle about three months) Maybe if I can sort out the performance, the hard starting will sort itself out.
I got the vehicle back from the workshop yesterday and took it for a 100km + drive, really concentrating on the symptoms. Here it is:
If you press the accelerator gently (slowly. I would almost call it coaxing) the performance is fine, but when you want to accelerate too fast it's almost if it jokes. Now I'm thinking too much fuel or not enough air. (Bredstizc)
I think I might be onto something. I'm trying a few things. Will keep you posted.
Thanks.
James, I've checked the relays on the injectors. They have a double click about 15 seconds apart. From that I have to assume that the injection system is working fine.
Stumacd, yes the fuel filter was replaced.
Remember I said the problem was two fold; hard starting and performance. I decided that me and the workshop has spent enough time on the hard starting. (They've had the vehicle about three months) Maybe if I can sort out the performance, the hard starting will sort itself out.
I got the vehicle back from the workshop yesterday and took it for a 100km + drive, really concentrating on the symptoms. Here it is:
If you press the accelerator gently (slowly. I would almost call it coaxing) the performance is fine, but when you want to accelerate too fast it's almost if it jokes. Now I'm thinking too much fuel or not enough air. (Bredstizc)
I think I might be onto something. I'm trying a few things. Will keep you posted.
Thanks.
I’m fairly confident to say my Punto’s problem is solved.
On the RHS of the intake manifold under the fuel rail there is a sensor (not sure what it is for, but assume it measures air temperature). I removed the sensor and cleaned it out with carburettor cleaner. It was glogged up with soot and greasy gunk. I went one step further and removed the whole intake manifold and cleaned it out with petrol (gasoline). Be very careful. The manifold is plastic and it seems brittle. I don't think this was quite necessary, but I didn't want to take any chances. (Same tipe of soot and gunk were present in the manifold)
On the LHS behind and below the fuel rail there is a silver valve. I believe it is an Exhaust Recirculation Valve. While the manifold was removed it was quite easy to get to this valve. I also used carburettor cleaner to clean this.
At this point my starting problem was gone, but I still had the performance issue.
I unplugged the air flow meter. I'm not sure what the MAP sensor is that everyone refers to. (I'm in Africa; we call it an airflow meter, but I think we might be referring to the same thing). Then it went like a rocket once you get it passed 3000rpm. I took off the sensor on the air pipe before it goes into the air filter box. Again the trusting Carburettor cleaner and an air compressor to clean it out. I had it reset on Friday. So far so good. I think my problem is gone.
Thanks to everyone that replied and had suggestions.
Andre
On the RHS of the intake manifold under the fuel rail there is a sensor (not sure what it is for, but assume it measures air temperature). I removed the sensor and cleaned it out with carburettor cleaner. It was glogged up with soot and greasy gunk. I went one step further and removed the whole intake manifold and cleaned it out with petrol (gasoline). Be very careful. The manifold is plastic and it seems brittle. I don't think this was quite necessary, but I didn't want to take any chances. (Same tipe of soot and gunk were present in the manifold)
On the LHS behind and below the fuel rail there is a silver valve. I believe it is an Exhaust Recirculation Valve. While the manifold was removed it was quite easy to get to this valve. I also used carburettor cleaner to clean this.
At this point my starting problem was gone, but I still had the performance issue.
I unplugged the air flow meter. I'm not sure what the MAP sensor is that everyone refers to. (I'm in Africa; we call it an airflow meter, but I think we might be referring to the same thing). Then it went like a rocket once you get it passed 3000rpm. I took off the sensor on the air pipe before it goes into the air filter box. Again the trusting Carburettor cleaner and an air compressor to clean it out. I had it reset on Friday. So far so good. I think my problem is gone.
Thanks to everyone that replied and had suggestions.
Andre
Last edited: