General Project Peterborough

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General Project Peterborough

Well the preliminary results are in.

Cause of death is head gasket failure on number one cylinder but due to shameful neglect.

I'm glad I didn't kill the engine but the bodge that did so incredibly doltish it makes the pigeon poo welded exhaust held on with black silicone look like a Brunellian feat of engineering.

More later.
 
So the head gasket was the issue but I've concluded that neglect was the primary cause.

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From the scratches left on the block face and head the gasket was changed possibly over a thousand miles ago, but when this task was carried out number eight stretch bolt must have sheered off either when removing the head or after the new gasket was in place. This bolt was drilled out and the damage to the treads repaired with car body filler.

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I feared the black silicone would return and it did. It was used to hold the block and gearbox together as one of the mounting bolt holes had little to no thread. Still the other two engine mounting bolts and three starter motor bolts appeared to be fine. :rolleyes:

Every single exhaust manifold nut was a quarter turn more than finger loose with only three proper washers, one wrong one and the other four had none at all. :bang:

The lower radiator hose was held on with welding wire...

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...lucky the gasket went when it did because it would have rusted away made contact with the exhaust manifold and burned itself to pieces.

Right I've had enough slating previous bodges. Time to try and put some of them right. But first...

Removing the head off a Panda 4x4

This is not a definitive guide but how I did it. ;)

Okay remove the airbox...

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...disconnect (and in my case because it was covered in crap remove) the battery.

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Next unscrew the front grille, unplug the fan and water level sensor, disconnect the radiator hoses, undo the nut and two bolts holding the fan in place and the two nuts holding the radiator top mounts in place. Carefully lift the radiator out and stick a hose pipe in one end to flush any crap out of the core.

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Remove fuel lines, fuel pump and the distributor so you can get to the top hose on remove that as well.

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Disconnect the accelerator and choke cables before carefully undoing the long 10mm bolts that hold the carb' in place.

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Next undo the four 10mm bolts that hold the cam' cover in place. Remove that and starting in the middle remove the 10mm bolts that hold the cam in place. Once loose pop the oil line out and carefully lift the cam' from the distributor end so the timing belt falls from the cam' wheel.

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Starting from the top centre and working your way outwards undo all the head bolts and carefully lift the head from the block.

If I were replacing the gasket I would have made a few precautions like locking the engine in TDC (not that much of an issue with the FIRE engine as it's non-interference) and giving the had a good clean and ensuring the block surface is free from debris, bits of old gasket and ready to refit the head later. Due to the damage to the block I can't use it again so...

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...it's out. I removed the nearly new clutch from the 4x4 999cc block to try and fit it to FrankenFiat II but...

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...the flywheel mounting holes were incompatible. So the FrankenFiat engine came with...

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...an AP Racing clutch. I guess it will have to do. ;)

Just as well I made the car a van. This load space has come in very handy indeed.

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Two problems I'll need to address. There is no profile on the end of the 866 cam' to run a mechanical fuel pump. If I use an electric pump there's nowhere on the carb' for a return pipe. :confused:
 
It's the one I was going to use with the bike carb's (they have separate returns from the top of the float chambers. I also have a CBR1000 pump in my shed "just in case". I don't know if it will be up to the task.

It came off an MGB so I guess it should be fine.
 
Following a typical transition day marathon. I was up at eight in the morning and got to bed at quarter to eight this morning.

For those who don't know; "transition day" is the day of the week where I swap from day shift to night shift. There are two methods, stay up the night before or have a nap in the afternoon. Yesterday I did neither. I was enjoying my Pandaing too much to notice it was starting to get dark. ;)

I've overslept today and life is getting in the way. Hopefully I'll have chance to work on the van tomorrow. :)
 
Just use mechanical fuel pump from 999 engine, bolt it to the head where it should be bolted on 999 engine, it will not work, but it has the return pipe to the tank, and the electric pump will just push the fuel to the carb through the old pump, extra fuel will return to the tank after closing the needle-valve in the carb in the same way as before{before swaping the engine}
 
I already knew there was a slight gearbox oil leak. Most Pandas do from time to time. This one I tracked back to small tear in the driver side inner CV boot. Again this is a common occurance and not an issue as they're only £12 or so each and while I have the engine out a straightforward task.

Hmmmmm.... Straight forward?

It took fifty minutes to undo the two upright bolts. One with a 19mm socket and the other with an 18mm that I had to hammer on and chisel off due to rust. The bottom ball joint had no rubber seal on it at all so the whole assembly is now out. The two 13mm bolts for the track control arms took 13mm, 1/2 inch, 12mm and 7/16th to get off. I'm thinking of getting a plasma cutter because I couldn't get a grinder in there. I took the whole assembly apart and this...

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...was all that's left of the brake dust shield/backing plate. :rolleyes:

Oh and the leak. It was a slight one considering the tear in the CV boot was about two inches long. Bodged with black silicone of course. :bang:

The chap who I bought this car from is organising a classic car show next Mayday weekend. I was going to take the Fantasia but now I'm so annoyed with how the 4x4 has been treated I'm going to put everything right, take it to the show and shove it up his nose instead!
 
Some jobs can't be done on a damp driveway...

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...ready for final clean and paint. :)

I'm going to replace all the bolts with Stainless Steel ones as well so in five or so years when it needs doing again it will be geofin' sight easier. ;)
 
Make sure about the toughness of the stainless steel bolts, they may not corrode but most of them are not tough enough to meet at least 8.8 toughness of the carbon steel. In other aplication I've used stainless m8 nuts for exhaust, I did not use torque wrench and damaged most of them just by tightening "by hand" the same way I do with normal m8 nuts, without any harm to the threads
 
That's a very good point. I'll check with Optima Stainless Steel (plug plug) they guys who made the carb' plates for Guff II to make sure they're strong enough. :)

In the mean time I'm sorry for being a moaning git about this car and the state she's in. The fact is this is the single most dangerous vehicle I have ever known to have a valid M.O.T certificate. So much so I'm seriously thinking of sending photo's and a full report to VOSA with the test stations details. I took my nephew out in this car. If the loose brake shoe locked the wheel or anything else had happened while he was in the car I would never have forgiven myself.

Yes it has annoyed me that a car this dangerous is on the road.

Lucky she's a Panda. Anything else would have been recycled by now. I'm more determined to put all the wrong things with this car right. I'm still convinced that beyond the twenty five years of abuse, neglect and bodges there's a decent little Panda waiting to be rescued.

Any further critique will be observational rather than opinion based as this is now a rescue mission.

Thank you for sticking with this thread. Rest assured none of my fleet of three (two and a half) Pandas will face the scrap heap. :)
 
That's a very good point. I'll check with Optima Stainless Steel (plug plug) they guys who made the carb' plates for Guff II to make sure they're strong enough. :)

I wouldn't bother with stainless, plenty of copper slip and you'll be fine. I've never had too much bother taking mine off, especially as you have to take them off all the time to do various jobs; replace lower ball joints, drive shaft boots, clutches, dampers, etc etc. No sooner than I have put them on I am taking them off :rolleyes:
 
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