Hi! I purchased a servicemanual online that covers several engines, eg U26/673, which at least have the same power and volume as mine. But I suspect that this is not a Fiat engine? One of the procedures in the manual is involving removing one inlet valve from cylinder, and using a dial gauge to find the timing mark! I also found a procedure on Youtube by "Dave's shed" that seems possible for a home-mechanic to follow, but it is for a 1995 engine. Not sure if my 1990 is different. From eper.fiatforum.com, and the dataplate in the car, I found my engine number to be 8140.27, version 290NAJ. Hopefully my version has marks, and holes for pins like the Youtube video? Also, I notice that on some models it is necessary to remove the engine to replace the waterpump? My pump was replaced a few years ago so probably not necessary, except if it easily accessible when doing the timing belt anyway. Any other parts/belts that should be replaced at the same time?
Technical Procedure for replacing timing belt on Ducato 1990 motorhome?
- Thread starter Cyberkul
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Technical Procedure for replacing timing belt on Ducato 1990 motorhome?
Communicator
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yes, seems to be the same case as mine. I'll se if I can get the procedure from Autodata, or elsewhere.I removed the old belt today. Not that hard to do. Removed the right wheel, and the bottom plastic plate to get access. Someone had drilled a hole in the fender, to make room for an extender to go through the fender, and into the 36mm socket on the crank shaft pully. Used an impact wrench, and the bolt came off relatively easy. Have now changed the idler pully. Had to remove the bracket for the pully to get it off. BUT now I need the torque settings for the different bolts and nuts before fitting everything together. Bolt for the idler pully, and bracket bolts, nut for the tensioner pully, crankshaft bolt. The manual I got online is for a different engine, so it is not useful. There was a new tensioner in the kit. The old one seems ok, so probably not necessary to replace. I can`t figure out how it is fastened anyway..
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When I changed the cambelt on my 2.8 JTD, I used the guide produced by @FreeSpirit, who included torque setting values for the various bolts, e.g. 200 Nm for the crankshaft bolt. If lacking other info, you could use figures for same sizes of bolts.
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Took a few pictures. Maybe useful to somebody. As you can see, there has been made a hole in the inner fender(?) to be able to reach the crank shaft bolt without having to lower the engine. Got the new belt on yesterday. I found that the easiest way was to finish at the crankshaft. I reinstalled the crankshaft cover and the crankshaft pully temporarily, and checked that the guide pin fitted through the hole in the pully, and into the "loop" in the cover. The guide pin in the dieselpump also in place. I then released the tensioner, and removed the pins, and turned the engine (by hand) two revolutions. Rechecked that the pins still fitted. Tightened the tensioner nut, but I think I'll remove the nut and crankshaft cover again and double check that the washer with the rim didn't shift. I read that the washer should be held in place with glue or similar during installation.
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The washer was ok, no need to glue. But another problem is that I didn`t find a way to prevent the crank turning when torqueing the crank bolt. Some engines have a hole in the cover over the starter ring, where you can put in a bolt, but there is no such hole on my engine.
I removed the small flywheel cover, and inserted a screwdriver into the starting ring, and against the oil pan to lock the crankshaft. Only three small bolts to remove. Worked ok! 200Nm is high torque, but with a tube on the torque wrench it went ok.
