General Problems with Wheel bolt Holes

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General Problems with Wheel bolt Holes

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Hi All,

I've got no thread in one of my bolt holes in my front left wheel and I'm not sure if I need to get a whole hub axle or just a wheel hub?? Can anyone help please? I've been informed that it may be possible to get a wheel hub but the mechanic told me that he'd need to remove the wheel first to see if my wheel hub was bolted to the axle
 
Hi All,

I've got no thread in one of my bolt holes in my front left wheel and I'm not sure if I need to get a whole hub axle or just a wheel hub?? Can anyone help please? I've been informed that it may be possible to get a wheel hub but the mechanic told me that he'd need to remove the wheel first to see if my wheel hub was bolted to the axle

You need a new one of these... item 8 in the diagram.

Or, when it's dismantled it might be possible to retap to a slightly larger thread, weld-fill and retap, or stick one of those insert thingy helicoils?
 

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You need a new one of these... item 8 in the diagram.

Or, when it's dismantled it might be possible to retap to a slightly larger thread, weld-fill and retap, or stick one of those insert thingy helicoils?

Thanks guys. I have wobbly bolts so I reckon I might have a bit of a problem finding one that'll fit a slightly larger hole.

I've found a replacement wheel hub on Ebay for £25.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FIAT-FRONT-WH...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item25571a0856
Do Puntos and Bravos use the same hubs as Stilos? If they do then I might pop down to the breakers.
 
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If you have a friendly mechanic and/or decent workshop, you could convert that wheel to studs. Drill out the threads and insert headed studs (no risk of pull through, just needs a dab of mig weld to hold it). A set of studs is £3 delivered (ebay 300296575548), but you'd need nuts to match the thread so call it £5-6 for parts.
 
If the threads have gone, your only safe option is a new hub, or a helicoil. Helicoiling is cheaper, and takes less time. Most decent garages will have the ability to do it or have a contact. You'd be surprised how many sumps, and spark plug wells are helicoiled without the cars owner being informed!
 
Hi guys,

Just spent the whole morning with my mates and this bloody hub. :cry:

Bought a used hub from a breakers and and found out that for some reason the disc is about an 3cm wider than the one already on the car. Called the breakers yard and they sworn that the disc they've sent me has been taken from the correct side and same car as my one???

So we decided to get the old disc from the knackerd hub and press it onto the hub I received from ebay but.... We cannot remove the nut from the one that's already on the car. It just wont budge. We've broken two Torque wrenches already and had to give up and put the old wheel back on, with only three bolts!!!!! :mad: This is so annoying and my dads not going to be too pleased when he finds out about his tools.

We're having to stand/jump on it while one person has a foot on the brake pedal. Is there a knack to getting this nut loose???
 
To repeat my post No.2

Thought about an easylok insert?
http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsMetal/installVideo.html

Torque wrenches are best kept for tightening, they're an expensive bit of kit. For loosening then a 3/4" or 1" drive breaker bar and a scaffold pole will give you more torque and you'd have no chance of breaking those

But then again an easylok or helicoil insert can be done in a few minutes, you use the same size bolt afterwards and it makes it even stronger than the original. A good garage or engineering workshop would have that done in 15mins but it's really up to you
 
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For loosening then a 3/4" or 1" drive breaker bar and a scaffold pole will give you more torque and you'd have no chance of breaking those

That is exactly what I use. The breaker bar was about £10 on ebay and I found a 1m Scaffold pole in the garden of a house I used to rent. Never found anything that I couldn't undo with them.
 
To repeat my post No.2

Thought about an easylok insert?
http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsMetal/installVideo.html

Torque wrenches are best kept for tightening, they're an expensive bit of kit. For loosening then a 3/4" or 1" drive breaker bar and a scaffold pole will give you more torque and you'd have no chance of breaking those

But then again an easylok or helicoil insert can be done in a few minutes, you use the same size bolt afterwards and it makes it even stronger than the original. A good garage or engineering workshop would have that done in 15mins but it's really up to you



Ok thanks, I'll try that. I did think about it but three 3 out of the 4 holes are screwed and I've got the other hub now and I'm not prepared to send it back to Leeds from London .
 
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No joy!!!!:bang:
My dad and I have just broken the ends of three normal drive breaker bars and a much thicker power bar. The power bar is the one he uses at his garage to crack the nuts off of Black Taxis and transit vans. Each time the same thing happens. The little square head breaks off inside the extension socket.

I know this seems like a stupid question but it is anti-clockwise to unscrew this bloody nut isn't it?

EDIT: After closer inspection of the nut he's informed me that it has been over tightened. There are two metal flaps on the nut that should sit over two grooves in the peg. Once they're sitting over the grooves nicely they should be tapped/ bent into the grooves to lock the nut inplace and secure the hub. Some idiot's over tightened it and the flaps have gone half way around the bloody peg.
 
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thats pretty seriously tight then.....is it the actual bar thats breaking??? ive got a breakers bar, cheapo one off the bay, tried to undo a nut, with a half meter scaffold pole on the end jumpped on the bugger, (im 14stone, so not light) and it wouldnt budge, breakers bar still intackt....when ive taken hub nuts off before, the flaps that have been bent in just giveway and bend back again, destroying the hubnut...try bending the flaps up...also to my knowledge the nuts dont have "flaps" its is a complete circle and once its at the correct torque, your meant to bang the nut into the recesses with a chisel/screwdriver, creating the flaps...so the fact that the flaps dont line up with the grooves either means youve tightened it :O or someone previous to you has re-used the old hubnut (BIG no no.....) and yes its anti-clockwise to loosen.....
take a picture and input will be thick and fast :)
 
somehthing tells me your doing it wrong....all the hub nuts ive taken off ive NEVER managed to damage one, you need ot make sure ure using a hexagonal socket not one of those splined ones, as the splined one will REALLY mess it up, needs to be 1/2" drive breakers bar or bigger with no adaptors give it a tug and off it comes, no way your gonna snap a 1/2"

take a pic of the tools ure using if it still wont budge....
 
Am I missing something as the drive shaft nuts
rotate in clockwise and anti clockwise direction
depending which side of the car they are fitted
is one a right hand tread and the other side
a left handed thread - so are you trying to tighten
it up instead of undoing it.

John
 
It was anti-clockwise after all.:rolleyes: Got it off in the end with a bar that was about a metre long. The end of it was slightly bigger than a snooker ball but at least it didn't break. My dad said he's never ever broken any tools removing a hub and cannot believe someone had screwed it on so tight.

Just in case anyone ever needs it, the part number is 7608131.

f465_1.JPG


Fiat quoted me an £70 for this so you'll understand how happy I was when I found a brand new one for a fraction of that price on Ebay. :slayer:
 
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