Ok so that time of year again and I'm wanting to make sure that my nice 'new' Bravo HGT stays nice for yrs to come and doesnt rust away at the sills etc. So whats the best preventative treatment, pressure washing, applications etc i can be doing to keep her at her best!
Preventative Treatment of Undercorrosion?
- Thread starter mountainmachine
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Preventative Treatment of Undercorrosion?
wrong time of the year realy, to damp and wet, for waxoiling rust prevention etc, i would powerwash any mud, dirt, from under the wheel arches, and wax it and get ready for even worse weather SNOW! then when the snow shifts clean all the salt grit again from the underneath and wait till the warm weather comes and get it waxoiled (dinitrol) (or used engine oil if you a skinflint) in all cavities, sills, door bottoms etc all cavities, it must be bone dry tho, even on a hot day theres condensation in all your panels thats why cars rust inside out theres 5 litres of the stuff on my UT keep the tinworms away he he! good luck ant!
http://www.rust.co.uk/dinitrol-products.cfm
sprays easier than Waxoyl and creeps better. I paint the heavier waxoyl onto exposed flat surfaces. Both really work, better in the summer when the car is dry but doing it now will help as both products actually chase water off the metal.
sprays easier than Waxoyl and creeps better. I paint the heavier waxoyl onto exposed flat surfaces. Both really work, better in the summer when the car is dry but doing it now will help as both products actually chase water off the metal.
Cool so i'm best for now jacking the car up and just making sure its well powerwashed down then repeating as the winter goes on and then in the spring doing the treatments?
My advice, do it the best you can now to prevent any more damage this winter, then do a really good job in the summer. Dinitrol in the cavities and around seams, buy an el cheapo spray gun.
won't be dry till summer just drive it and enjoy. i also advise against powerwashing engine bays as there are so many sensors, electric components etc, unless cleaning up for oil leak, seen loads of probs in the past nothing wrong in a dirty engine the coat of dirt and oil keeps out the damp squirt wd40 over everything and get ready for even worse weather good luck hope she a good servant for you Ant!
Sorry i ment the underside, i dont powerwash the engine, clean it by hand! Well the bits i can reach as there aint much space around the Bravo HGT engine for my big hands to squeeze. 
You could spray WD40 to displace the water before using waxoyl.
but wd40 leaves wd40 behind
will it stick to it??
my dads old delta drank about 15litres of waxoyl. it stank for months.
but it never rusted anywhere.
will it stick to it??
my dads old delta drank about 15litres of waxoyl. it stank for months.
but it never rusted anywhere.
Im not surprised it didn't that must be 7kg of the stuff and about 2in thick, as it comes out like treacle, a tip is to warm it up till its runny and then blast it everywhere, you get a lot of coverage ( tight wads, and old timers use old engine oil) and seems to give a level of protection, Ant!
faster4_tec said:but wd40 leaves wd40 behind
will it stick to it??
Should be ok used in conjunction with Waxoyl.
So? What dinitrol do I buy? theres loads
Underbody wax? Cavity Wax? 400ml - 1 ltr? Any Ideas? gonna do my punto when the summer comes in. gonna buy acheap spray gun and get prepared :yum:
Underbody wax? Cavity Wax? 400ml - 1 ltr? Any Ideas? gonna do my punto when the summer comes in. gonna buy acheap spray gun and get prepared :yum:
How about this....http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_n=405096&p_i=405096
i use waxoyl with my compressor and sprayer, but its too late to do it now, its a summer job. if you do it now and get damp or salt trapped under the sealant you will only accelerate the corrosion.
if you must do it now you need to clean the arches and underbody with sugar soap, then get it perfectly dry (at least 24hrs in warm garage to dry), then spray it somewhere warm and dry (garage), and leave it for another 24 hours before driving. also remeber to mask off the rest of the car because accidents happen, and undersealants are hard to remove from paintwork and trim, trust me i've made this mistake more than once and it wont happen again.
also remember that any existing corrosion needs to be treated before you apply the underseal, if you dont do this it will still rot. easiest way to treat rust patches is to get a wire brush bit for a drill to reomve the excess corrsion, then apply some rust treatment gel such as jenoseel. this needs to be done some time before the underseal is applied, and only once the car is dry, but its an important stage so its worth the hassle and time.
if you must do it now you need to clean the arches and underbody with sugar soap, then get it perfectly dry (at least 24hrs in warm garage to dry), then spray it somewhere warm and dry (garage), and leave it for another 24 hours before driving. also remeber to mask off the rest of the car because accidents happen, and undersealants are hard to remove from paintwork and trim, trust me i've made this mistake more than once and it wont happen again.
also remember that any existing corrosion needs to be treated before you apply the underseal, if you dont do this it will still rot. easiest way to treat rust patches is to get a wire brush bit for a drill to reomve the excess corrsion, then apply some rust treatment gel such as jenoseel. this needs to be done some time before the underseal is applied, and only once the car is dry, but its an important stage so its worth the hassle and time.
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The Dinitrol I use is 3125 brown, sprays easily and you can see where you have covered. I'll say it again, you can do some good even on a wet car and these treatment build up, a bit of dirt mixed in with them does no harm so long as it's saturated with preservative.. I wouldn't use WD40, it's too expensive and washes off very fast, it isnt even a good penetrating oil (not surprising as it wasnt designed as one) I use 3 in one penetrating spray for that, but if you do, as flump says it will do no harm at all when you use the Dinitrol/Waxoyl.
How do I apply this stuff??? I've phoned up a compressor company and there looking for £420 for a compressor that runs at 10 CFM at a constant 85psi (I dont even know what this means!)
But is there a cheaper method I could you to apply the stuff? cheers
But is there a cheaper method I could you to apply the stuff? cheers
Well machinemart do compressors:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/ranges.asp?g=102&r=2007
I dont know what pressure you would need as you'd want one that would do other tasks too.
But as you can get them from £50-4000 theres a good range!
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=000113045&r=2007&g=102
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/ranges.asp?g=102&r=2007
I dont know what pressure you would need as you'd want one that would do other tasks too.
But as you can get them from £50-4000 theres a good range!
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=000113045&r=2007&g=102
Yea im looking for a cheap one I'll try ebay and have a look at the above link to see if I can find anything
I'll try ebay and have a look at the above link to see if I can find anything Cool, i may come a borrowing in the spring If you need a hand give me a shout.
If you need a hand give me a shout.
This compressor looks good and on special at the moment.
http://www.toolsbypost.com/product.php?id=1596&category=682
Ditrinol also do spray can (non compressor) protection kits. See here as an example http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_n=405025&p_i=405025
http://www.toolsbypost.com/product.php?id=1596&category=682
Ditrinol also do spray can (non compressor) protection kits. See here as an example http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_n=405025&p_i=405025
