Technical Poorley Marea

[bulldog5046]

My poor baby isnt feeling well.

i've got the injector light comming on for the first minute or two at the start of the jernouy and tonight she felt like she was really holding back when i put my foot down at 4.5k

When i fitted my BMC CDA she felt alot different, like she had lost power but seemed to be performing the same so i guess you could say she became 'smoother'

i've gone from Tesco 95 RON to Tesco 99 RON to V-Power over the last week running about £40-50 of each.

when i fitted my CDA i used the wynn's spray carb cleaner to clean my MAF.

i'm dubious of my current air intake setup as i think its taking some of my power away as its trying to pull air from around the chassis and through the wheel arch, which if i'm correct in thiking there will be a vortex where the wheel is spinning stopping it pulling air?

i did have the injector light problem before any of these changes but it went away for a little bit after running injector cleaner

so now i'm stuck and need help, could this all be down to the Lambda?

Cheers,
Ryan

 

[Mr c]

Don,t know spec of car, or your mods but could there be increased work load being subjected to injectors through increased air flow.
Could it be running too lean?
More air through intake, no way of increasing fuel richness? Therefore lean mixture = Injector warning light? Possibility?

Andy

 

[jug]

i dont think your airfilter has anything to do with it, or your fuel changes, or your lambda.

why?

the airfilter issue has never happened on anyone else's car.
i know what you mean about the vents in the wheel arch liner, but i'd be willing to bet a lot of money that it has nothing to do with it. however you should block those holes up once the airbox is removed to stop dirt entering the engine bay. driving through puddles = very mucky engine bay, wet battery and relays, and generally you're asking for problems. i made this mistake on my previous bravo.

other people change the fuel they use just as much and have not had any problems. it make no difference except to your pocket, thats proven. it cant cause problems since you're still running the same map and still using the same sensor's, so the ecu compensates by reducing the fueling when you stick 99RON in. realistically that cant be the problem.

the lambda is ignored for the first few mins because it is not up to temp. your light comes on for the first few mins, so that suggest slambda is not the issue, plus you dont have any of the other lambda failure characteristics such as high idle, warm starting problems, loss of mpg.

so that leaves your MAF. this could be an issue, especially if you've been spraying it with stuff. isnt it a hot film type MAF? if it is you really should not get anything on it, it usually makes them burn out. it would be good to test it.

personally i think its a sensor is giving a bad signal, due to damage, dirt, wear, incorrect gap or position, dirty connector, wiring fault, etc etc. it could be the MAF, it could be something else. try attacking the MAF first.