Smart move. On the Panda/500; this is much easier than removing the bottom hose, and just as effective, with a lot less risk of consequential damage. It also means you can reuse the coolant, if still fit for service.
Technical performing cambelt change.
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Technical performing cambelt change.
Smart move. On the Panda/500; this is much easier than removing the bottom hose, and just as effective, with a lot less risk of consequential damage. It also means you can reuse the coolant, if still fit for service.
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Precisely, ethyline glycol is poisonous and cats like the taste of it. I don't want to be liable for poisoning the local moggies with puddles of coolant on the floor.
Having read what you said here, and looking at the pictures you posted, I would conclude that you didn't take the cam cover off or slacken the cam sprocket bolt? - By the way, thanks for the illustrations. Makes it all so much more interesting and I love seeing other people's tools - The ratchet looks quite old?
I prefer to "sook" the coolant out as you did - I have an excellent "sooker" which I got very cheaply at Lidl/Aldi (can't remember which) which is actually a drain clearing tool. If you have a more conventional radiator without the "header tank" on the side then I prefer to slacken/destroy the bottom hose clip and pull the rubber hose off it's plastic fitting. Personally I'd resist trying to undo the "quick release" plastic fitting itself as I believe they are prone to self destruct (although i wouldn't know as I've never tried to undo one!)
After you've run around for a while please do let us know if your CEL (Check Engine Light) illuminates won't you. My bets would be on it staying off - unless it lights for an unrelated reason of course.
Thanks for posting about this, I've enjoyed this thread.
regards
Jock
Poisonous indeed. A few years ago we had exactly that upsetting experience when a neighbour's cat died of this (I believe it's not a "nice" way for the animal to go?) The SSPCA were invited to investigate and it was them who identified the poison. It turned out it was antifreeze involved and that a number of cats around the area had also either got very sick or been killed in this way. They concluded that it was a deliberate act but were unable to establish who had done it and there were no more poisonings, probably because of the SSPCA officers making door to door inquiries "frightening" whoever it was?Precisely, ethyline glycol is poisonous and cats like the taste of it. I don't want to be liable for poisoning the local moggies with puddles of coolant on the floor.
I believe the cats like it because it tastes sweet? and I think it's now mandatory to include a "bittering" agent during manufacture? so hopefully we won't hear of this happening any more.
I just enlarged your pic of the ratchet wrench and HEY! It's a King Dick! I've got a couple of very old tools of that brand - can't remember when I last used one - and, seeing this I decided to google the company. I'm amazed to find they are still going strong! https://www.kingdicktools.co.uk/
PS Not sure why I'm surprised to see they are still going strong - good tools.
PS Not sure why I'm surprised to see they are still going strong - good tools.
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No
. I used tippex for the cam sprocket . I inherited that ratchet from my late father-in-law. It must be quite old.
lunchbeers
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That's right, it's called 'Bitrex' and has been a component of antifreeze for a few years now.
It's also in host of other products like screenwash, shampoo, laundry detergents too
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Ok. Just went for a drive around and to the shops. No problems .
.
That's great to hear - well done that man! I'm not surprised though, in that I think, as long as that top pulley is correctly located on the cam, then the "tippex method" is entirely valid. The problem comes on older and higher mileage cars where you can be pretty sure a belt will have been done at some time and, with the likes of the Haynes manual (and others) recommending slackening that pulley, you really can't be sure that whoever did it has set this up correctly. I wouldn't automatically slacken that bolt though. Check it with the old belt still in place and see if the locking tools install. If they do then Oh Happy Day!Ok. Just went for a drive around and to the shops. No problems
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I would describe the job as quite daunting and intense. Not something I would want to do again. But definately get the tool to lock the crankshaft then you just have to make sure the cam sprocket doesn't move.
Did you buy the full locking tool kit?
My car is 4 years old in October and at 21,000 miles, do you think I should do it this year or next?
My car is 4 years old in October and at 21,000 miles, do you think I should do it this year or next?
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I bought a minimal kit. No need for the full kit really. Just the crankshaft locking tool. then you only have to watch the cam sprocket when fitting the new belt.
At that age and mileage it should easily be ok to next year and then some..
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Hi Trevor - I hope you are keeping well.
Regarding change intervals, have you seen this: http://fiat.mopar.eu/contents/brand...elt_replacement/timing-belt-leaflets-fiat.pdf
For our Panda and my boy's Punto I have decided, as neither car does large annual mileages (around 2 to 3,000 miles on the Panda and 5 to 6,000 for the Punto) that I start thinking about it once the belt is over 4 years old but I wouldn't be worrying if it went over the 5 years.
Regarding belt condition I did Becky's belt (our Panda) a little over 3 years ago when she had probably around 55,000 miles on her (that's a guess - I could take a look at her service book but I'm just too lazy!) At that time she was about 8 years old and I'm pretty sure she was still on her original belt. I posted pictures of the old belt in the thread I did about changing it, you can view them here about half way down the post: https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/459903-beckys-timing-belt-ongoing-saga.html?459903=#post4338582
The old belt was looking "well used", shiny but no signs of cracking. What I did notice was that whilst the new belt's teeth were a very snug fit into the sprocket teeth the old belt had a bit of clearance, or "slop" between the tooth form of the belt and the sprocket. But I don't think it was in imminent danger of failing. When looking for belt wear if you see any sign of cracking around the base of the teeth on the belt it should be immediately replaced (That advice came from correspondence I had with Gates.) Apparently, and it's logical if you think about it - which I hadn't, the driving force is transmitted through the base of the teeth so any cracking here is serious.
Hope that's helpful?
Kindest regards
Jock
PS, just re-read that post and it looks like I guessed the mileage wrong! - sorry.
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How long would a pro take to change a belt/tensioner/waterpump?
This sort of gives a clue - basically 2 hours, and just under £250 – that includes the parts prices for a belt, tensioner and new water pump, plus anitfireeze etc on top of the labour cost. https://www.fiatworkshop.co.uk/Fiat_500_Panda_Grande_Punto_1.2_cambelt_water_pump_replacement.shtml
