Technical Panda 169 - 12v piggyback fuse power sources?

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Technical Panda 169 - 12v piggyback fuse power sources?

gas panda

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Dear wise forum,

I have a dash (front & rear) cam needing both 12v <always on> and <ignition on> sources to enable the parking sensor.

i'm also without a boot light and the 12v taped up lead hidden behind the lining isn't liking the LED Spot Light 12V 24V Touch Switch Dimmer 70mm Downlight Campervan Caravan Boat i'm hell bent on installing after a late night fleabay purchase. Works fine from ciggy lighter 12v but it needs an <always on> circuit to work appropriately.

My Panda has a piggyback fuse under the steering wheel for the ciggy lighter already, so i'm guessing i'll need to be using the engine bay fuses for these power needs.

Can anyone suggest which fuse slots to use? or is it a case of trial and error? I'm assuming (hoping) someone's been here before.

Thanks in advance. I've a pic of the fusebok but unable to post as a newbie - i guess it's a standard layout?
 
Oops! Should've mentioned it's a 2008 RHD model in the title.
 
Oops! Should've mentioned it's a 2008 RHD model in the title.

1.1 active and 1.2 dynamic have totally different fuse layout. Although they are functionally the same


permanently on and switched is odd for a dashcam. Dashcams that have motion detection for recording suspicious activity while the car is off. Normally also have a G sensor so it know when you are driving ?? and only need a permanent 12V
 
1.1 active and 1.2 dynamic have totally different fuse layout. Although they are functionally the same


permanently on and switched is odd for a dashcam. Dashcams that have motion detection for recording suspicious activity while the car is off. Normally also have a G sensor so it know when you are driving ?? and only need a permanent 12V

I'm creeping ever closer to being allowed to post a photo of the fusebox layout to help with id.

I was a little surprised to seeing the Thinkware F100 hardwire bundle asking for two connections to enable the g-shock parking sensor feature. I guess the <ignition on> alerts it to a driving state and starts loop recording. At around £100 it's not the smartest of devices, but hopefully functional. Time will tell.
 
by far the easiest way is with a volt / multi meter


one lead on chassis ground or negative battery terminal


then go down the fuses and any that are 12v or -12v both sides are Good to go


same with the ignition switch. 0V when ignition off and 12 both sides when on


you could do this with a 12V test lamp also.
 
What each fuse does is imprinted in the inside of the cover. Hard to see and also in the owns book. Both will be correct. Fiat had a habit of swapping the fuse box around from time to time.
 
by far the easiest way is with a volt / multi meter one lead on chassis ground or negative battery terminal...

Yes, i'd seen that technique described elsewhere to identify the circuits. Alas, none of my existing fuses have the bare terminal ends on the printed face. Easily rectified by using newer fuses! Sometimes we need to just share a thought to move the thinking forward!

(woohoo! i can post pix) here's my engine fuse box ...
oTS7hMTJ_o.jpg


i'm wondering if the empty fuseholders are wired? i'm gonna be busy with the volt meter!
 
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rarely the empty one are wired. Usually there no contacts in them or only on one side

I suspect as much but having seen a number of other fuseboxes with fuses filling my spare sockets i feel it worth investigating.

Thanks. It's been helpful bouncing ideas around and you've helped identify a sound approach to the task..
 
wouldn't it be easier for the cabling to use the fuse box near the steering wheel

Probably, but there's only a couple of active fuses in there, and one of those is already doubled-up for the ciggie lighter. Again, the empty sockets need a voltmeter test to see if there's any signs of life.

I know the power is in there. It's just the findint!

I'd hoped someone might have had the fuses mapped out but my reading around has revealed the lack of standardisation within models.
 
Probably, but there's only a couple of active fuses in there, and one of those is already doubled-up for the ciggie lighter. Again, the empty sockets need a voltmeter test to see if there's any signs of life.

I know the power is in there. It's just the findint!

I'd hoped someone might have had the fuses mapped out but my reading around has revealed the lack of standardisation within models.

one of the internal fuses is normally for the body computer this is live all the time. Usually a 5A
 
Ciggy lighter can pull a fair bit of power. Probably best taken direct from battery with its own fuse. You can feed a wire alongside a gearshift cable. That frees up an "ignition on" piggyback fuse for the camera.

Alternatively, run power from the battery to your own fusebox fitted somewhere convenient inside the car. That can feed your piggy lighter USB** or whatever.
Something like this (other brands are available) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373618018404?hash=item56fd5e8864:g:MFIAAOSwqhFgXaNv

** Make sure the USB powers down when not in use or you could find your battery goes flat.
 
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Ciggy lighter can pull a fair bit of power. Probably best taken direct from battery with its own fuse. You can feed a wire alongside a gearshift cable. That frees up an "ignition on" piggyback fuse for the camera.

Alternatively, run power from the battery to your own fusebox fitted somewhere convenient inside the car. That can feed your piggy lighter USB** or whatever.
Something like this (other brands are available) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373618018404?hash=item56fd5e8864:g:MFIAAOSwqhFgXaNv

** Make sure the USB powers down when not in use or you could find your battery goes flat.

Excellent idea, which would also remove the need to piggyback from factory circuits for always on power. Much tidier!
 
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