Technical Panda 100hp downpipe flange to centre pipe

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Technical Panda 100hp downpipe flange to centre pipe

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Hi,

I’m replacing this gasket due to a blow. Are the studs welded to the downpipe or are they removable ?

Anyone know the specs for the studs and nuts so I can get replacements. Cheers
 
Hi,

I’m replacing this gasket due to a blow. Are the studs welded to the downpipe or are they removable ?

Anyone know the specs for the studs and nuts so I can get replacements. Cheers
not sure I understand the question
Then again I have never owned a 100HP, hoping an owner would chime in
looks to me as if the flange is pulled together by nuts and bolts. I could easily be wrong

 
M10 is the size
 

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Mine has one bolt and one welded in stud. I presume the missing stud fell out before I had the car. The stud works for now, but it will eventually get drilled out and replaced with another bolt.

Unless your threads are ok, drill out the end of both studs and replace with bolts and thick stainless washers to better support the flange face. This option also allows you to make up a much better support bracket that can hang from a long bolt at the nearside of the flange.

If the catalyst outlet pipe is left unsupported it will eventually crack where it exits the catalyst case.

Ordinary 8.8 bolts are best on that flange as they don't gall (self weld) like stainless often does and they dont shake loose like stainless always does. Just use self locking nuts though (of course) not the "nyloc" type.
 
Just to update this, at the time of my OP i managed to get away without drilling/removing the studs.

However a replacement centre pipe with a thicker flange has forced my hand - the length of the current (partially rusted) threads are not good enough to secure the nuts. I am currently battling with drilling these out to replace the bolts with new/longer studs.

Will be picking up some M10x40mm bolts / nuts / washers today. The current studs are around 20mm long.

Interestingly the OEM flange is around 3mm and my Klarius replacement is 7.7mm which seems more robust than the original.
 
Any bare thread on the bolts will rust and jam the nuts next time around. When you know the correct bolt length, cut them off to show through the nut. Use a good high solids anti seize paste and smear some over the bolt end to fully protect the threads.

Fussy? You bet! Anything to make life easier next time around.
 
Any bare thread on the bolts will rust and jam the nuts next time around. When you know the correct bolt length, cut them off to show through the nut. Use a good high solids anti seize paste and smear some over the bolt end to fully protect the threads.

Fussy? You bet! Anything to make life easier next time around.
thanks dave, good tip
 
The 100HP catalyst outlet pipe support uses the usual quick rot mild steel ring clamp, but the retaining bolt goes into the aluminium sump pan with an open-end hole. Mine seized and split that part of the casting. No serious harm done but I needed to make a new bracket. I made a bracket that firmly connects one of the pipe flange bolts to a gearbox bolt. I'll try to get a picture of it.
 
The 100HP catalyst outlet pipe support uses the usual quick rot mild steel ring clamp, but the retaining bolt goes into the aluminium sump pan with an open-end hole. Mine seized and split that part of the casting. No serious harm done but I needed to make a new bracket. I made a bracket that firmly connects one of the pipe flange bolts to a gearbox bolt. I'll try to get a picture of it.
Yes, my clamp fell apart - would be interested to see pictures. Thanks
 
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