Technical P0101 & p0404 but no power issue?

[minimad99]

Evening all,
I have had an odd starting issue over recent months on my jtd, on 3 occasions but weeks apart.

Symptoms are mildly warm engine after only covering 2-3 miles, on restart it won't fire but strong turn over. After 60-90 mins starts fine. When engine runs, it is great, lots of power, no cut outs even on 35 mile runs to work.

This all seemed to start after I ran the diesel tank down to nearly 30 miles left, but not sure if coincidence.

The only other thing recently is an irregular engine warning alarm, comes on at lowish revs in 3rd or 4th gear but disappears if you dip clutch and rev engine.

So to try and tackle this, I've bought myself the full set of obd cables from gendan and downloaded multiscan. What a great product!
Found the following vehicles codes; p0101 which I know is maf, p0404 which is egr and something about timing revs synchronisation but I forgot to write the whole description down. I cleared all 3 but first 2 came straight away and have stayed despite me cleaning the maf and egr connectors.

Does this combination ring any bells with anyone? I hate the feeling of not knowing whether it will start when I turn the key?
Doesn't feel like crank sensor as I've had that before, I'd sort of disregarded fueling due to the number of miles I've covered since and it runs fine when started.

I'm going to clean the egr and take a look at maf, anything else you guys would suggest? Sorry for the long post.

 

[sussexa]

id be tempted to clean the egr as you plan but try it with a blank when refitting, if it makes no difference its only minutes to remove the blank if you want to keep egr working.
also Im not sure on the 115 but can you disconnect the maf and drive it might revert to an ecu table to replace missing maf values from map sensor and revs. youll probably get another code for the maf being disconnected.
clean the map sensor anyway as your right there on the manifold to do egr.
also not sure if p403 or p404 is resistance value error in egr , like solenoid is open or short circuit, or disconnected from loom / connector.
whilst cleaning egr or before even just test with a multimeter across the 2 pins in the solenoid plug of the egr valve , resistance value should be somewhere in the range of 8 ohms to 8.5 ohms.migt save you cleaning a knackerd egr.

 

[minimad99]

Thanks sussexa,
Would you expect either of these to cause the starting problem I've described though?

As a side note I forgot to include, I've been getting daily errors from oil level sensor, high, low and not working at all! Also water in fuel filter light.
By any chance do the maf , egr, fuel filter and oil level sensors work of a shared junction box or earth?

I've already cleaned earth's at battery end, the small black box next to battery and the ecu one. Can't work out how to get at the gearbox one as has a pipe above it, assume have to go from underneath but haven't had chance.

 

[richydraper]

Water in diesel fuel filter sensor (Multijet versions)/flow meter (Multijet versions), F35, 7.5amp Mini Blade fuse in the under dash fuseboard.

if 'Flow Meter' actually is 'Air Flow Meter' then this *could* be your issue. easy enough to check either way.

 

[minimad99]

I've got an 8v bit worth a check, ta

 

[minimad99]

Update:
Well, last week I removed and cleaned, EGR, Maf, Map Sensor, gearbox earth, main earth below battery, also cleaned out the throttle body pipe above stat (solid black plastic pipe to intercooler) and changed the fuel filter.

The car runs much better, more power and have lost the stutter at 3200rpm................ but still have the same EGR p0404 and Maf codes p0101 so I guess they are both knackered. whats weird is that I have no running problems??? and no starting problems since the clean up, MPG is 55, Yes 55 with over 180,000 miles on the clock....... ideas?

When I rechecked the codes I found P1320 was back, multiscan describes it as Timing/Revs synchronisation. Now a search on the forums shows this to be an issue with the cambelt potentially which is due to be changed soonish. could this cause the car not to start?
I'd like to locate and clean the sensor which I think is a magnet type, can anyone point me in the right direction? can it be accessed from above?

 

[sussexa]

could be your egr had failed in a slightly open position creating problems and the egr code, when cleaned it may now be sealed shut but still be failed electrically needs checking resistance to solenoid as mentioned before.
the maf code could possibly be the fact the egr is not opening and car is not getting the maf drop in flow it is expecting.

 

[minimad99]

Cheers sussexa I did forget to test the resistance actually. It's running so nice at the mo, really smooth but I've lost all trust in it with this intermittent starting issue, grrrrr.

You got any thoughts on p1320? If the cambelt has stretched, would the light stay on? since the clean up I've had it flicker at startup only 3 times??

 

[sussexa]

ive seen loads of threads that ended up being crank sensors , but most id say seem to be running with no issue until engine warms then either cuts out or fails to restart when up to temps.
don't know where it is but guess its access from underneath.
try this as a guide should be similar location ?
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-mk2...jtd-crank-rpm-sensor-removal-replacement.html
this guy used it for his 156 jtd so should be close enough
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa...2-crank-sensor-replacement-1-9-jtd-156-a.html
might be worth chucking in a new crank sensor when doing the belt anyway , looks like a lot fail eventually.

this sounds similar
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa...s-got-p1320-fault-this-may-be-the-answer.html
guy near the bottom sounds to suspect timing between crank and cam as you mentioned, maybe wait and see if new belt sorts it first.
found a better thread on here
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/113257-1-9-jtd-suddenly-dies-crank-sensor.html