Technical Operate a CN+ out of the Car ????

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Technical Operate a CN+ out of the Car ????

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Anyone know if it's possible to operate a Connect Nav+ unit while it's not fitted in a car? I'm doing some repairs to one and it's a pain having to keep taking it out to the garage and plugging it back into the car to test it.

I've tried connecting it to a power supply indoors. It gets to the opening screen (blue screen, Fiat badge and 9.8) for about 10 seconds then shuts down. I suspect it's because it needs the CAN line to continue operation.

Any ideas how to bypass this?

Dave.
 
They work fine out of the car. Connect both the +12v and ignition lines to a 12v supply. They draw about 2 Amps when running so make sure your supply can handle this.
 
I thought of that John, but when you connect the ignition line (Key+ signal) it asks for the Master Code which I don't have for one of my CN+s. It works in the car with the ignition off (gets past the blue screen and almost everything works) As soon as I turn the ignition on... "Master Code"

Dave.
 
I thought of that John, but when you connect the ignition line (Key+ signal) it asks for the Master Code which I don't have for one of my CN+s. It works in the car with the ignition off (gets past the blue screen and almost everything works) As soon as I turn the ignition on... "Master Code"

Dave.
That is correct. It will do that. No way around it apart from getting the code.
With the ignition off, it will run for 20 minutes before powering itself off, but will not communicate with the car at all.
 
@....... John

When you say "it will run for 20 minutes before powering itself off", do you mean in the car or on the bench power supply or both?

I have 2 CN+s, one with a code and one without. On the bench without the ignition +ve, they both only run for about 10 seconds then shut down. In the car, the one with the code will run OK and when I turn the ignition on will continue to run because it's code is stored in the Body Computer. The one without a code will run OK in the car until I turn the ignition on then it locks up and asks for the code. I haven't tried yet, but I suspect that if I run them on the bench with the ignition +ve connected, they'll both ask for a code.

Dave.
 
My CN+ works out of the car fine, doesnt ask for a code or anything. I have both permanent/switched 12vdc connected. I do have the code etc
but it has never asked for it. I have had it on the bench running for hours too when I was messing around with it in bits. - must have done this 5 times at least now.

It came with the car (abarth), wasnt retrofitted if that makes a difference.

Dan
 
Hmmm.... most strange, so it seems as though it's only my 2 (1 normal and 1 Abarth) that don't want to play in the kitchen.

I'm running them off a RS Components Thulby regulated power supply but it is only rated at 2.4 amps although the voltage and current readings aren't dropping off when they shut down at about 10 seconds. Think I'll bring a car battery up from the garage tomorrow to try anyway.

Dave.
 
I just had a look at the PSU I used last time and it is a 12v thats designed for an external USB CD drive, the rating on the sticker says 2.2A, but it works. Mind you i didnt actually have any speakers connected, but did have a navigation cd in the drive and a dension icelink/ipod photo hooked up.

In the diag menus it did say that the switched/ignion feed was ok so it definately knew it was there.

Only thing I can think of is depending what that CD does that ozmosis has, my unit might have been updated/flashed with it, so it doesnt ask for a code?

Ill bring mine in over the weekend and hook it up if yours still doesnt get going.

Dan
 
Hmmm.... most strange, so it seems as though it's only my 2 (1 normal and 1 Abarth) that don't want to play in the kitchen.

I'm running them off a RS Components Thulby regulated power supply but it is only rated at 2.4 amps although the voltage and current readings aren't dropping off when they shut down at about 10 seconds. Think I'll bring a car battery up from the garage tomorrow to try anyway.

Dave.
Use the bench Supply. yours will be fine and it is much safer. If you use a car battery and accidently short something out, you will kill it instantly. If you want to reduce power consumption on the bench, run it with the CD player and GPS/ GSM receivers unplugged. It will still start up and the radio work.

You have to connect both Switched and unswitched +12v lines to 12V.

They ask for a code after they communicate with the body computer over the can bus and find that it is a new unit installed in the car. i.e when you turn the ignition on.
Out of the car they will definately never ask for a code.
 
I thought of that John, but when you connect the ignition line (Key+ signal) it asks for the Master Code which I don't have for one of my CN+s. It works in the car with the ignition off (gets past the blue screen and almost everything works) As soon as I turn the ignition on... "Master Code"

Dave.

It is working correctly then
 
Thanks John and Dan, I tried them again today on the bench and as you said, they both run with the ignition +ve connected.

The problem I've been trying to resolve with these 2 CN+s is that on one of them, none of the buttons work and on the other only some of them work. I've narrowed it down to the front panel PCBs.

I've spent most of today searching for the faults and finally found that some of the pins on the ribbon cable connector on one of the units had been dry soldered. So, a large magnifying glass and small soldering iron (I hate Surface Mount Devices) and that one is now fully working. Unfortunately I still can't find the fault on the other PCB so I need to source a replacement.

Dave.
 
I've now found and repaired the fault on the CN+ that only some of the buttons worked on. It turned out to be the PCB switch behind the 'ENTER' button.

Having traced the circuit on the front panel PCB, it would appear that the 32 buttons and 2 rotary switches are divided into 4 circuits that share the same multiplexer IC. If 1 switch goes down then a quarter of the keyboard goes down with it.

I discovered that the original switches were made by Panasonic and ordered some from a company in America on Wednesday and they arrived today. I have some spares, so if anyone has a similar problem, I may be able to help.

Re. the power supply discussion above, I don't understand why, but you only need the ignition +ve signal to start the units when on the bench. Once it's running, you can disconnect it and the unit will continue to run.

Dave.
 
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