General Oil sump!!!
- Thread starter l0586
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General Oil sump!!!
I'd say it's time to change that sump!
Parts are cheap, the labour perhaps less so if not fixing it yourself.
Parts are cheap, the labour perhaps less so if not fixing it yourself.
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Iam afraid it’s time for a new one is your under tray missing
Yea, obviously didn’t have one when I got it.
DIY under £50; independent garage using aftermarket parts, £200 - £250, main dealer using OEM parts £600-£800. Add to that the cost of an oil & filter change.
Check also the condition of the rear twist beam around the spring pans; if that's in a similar condition it's going to need replacing soon and whilst the parts aren't that expensive, labour charges will be if not doing it yourself.
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It doesn’t take the salt long to eat it away
They didn't galvanise the sumps on these... I remember it happening to mine. But it could be worse... VW uses alloys ones that crack altogether which I bet can lead to some horrific failures.
Local motor factors part is your best bet, likely in stock too as it's a common repair.
Even after a few years, depending where you live and the salt in the air / on the roads, they can look pretty rough on otherwise fresh cars
Local motor factors part is your best bet, likely in stock too as it's a common repair.
Even after a few years, depending where you live and the salt in the air / on the roads, they can look pretty rough on otherwise fresh cars
sandeel999
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I0586 NICK HARPER, Norwich looks after abarths and fiats and alfas, a lovely chap to have a chat too as well.
Always lots of abarths I there, hes got some lovely motors. Alfa 4c, Aries atom, ferrari abarth, another abarth special.
Reasonably priced I thought on work on my abarth and panda
Always lots of abarths I there, hes got some lovely motors. Alfa 4c, Aries atom, ferrari abarth, another abarth special.
Reasonably priced I thought on work on my abarth and panda
Having done this job recently myself, I'd say that's a very good price. It's the amount of time and items like the exhaust that you have to remove first that can cause the problems, the nuts on mine didn't even resemble the look of a nut for example, breaking that seal anyhow, you'll need a new gasket and paste for example.
WitleyPanda
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Any specific tips? I have just cleaned off and given 3 coats of hammerite to the very poorly item. I note the one tucks into a recess, do the brackets around this need to be removed? Are there screws under there? Do you use a gasket or sealant or both? From where?
If you're attempting to prolong the life of an existing sump, use a grease/oil/wax based product; not paint.
With paint, moisture inevitably gets between the paint and the metal, allowing corrosion to continue unseen beneath the paint.
You need a non-hardening product that is capable of self repair if (when!) it gets chipped.
You can do a lot worse than wiping an oily rag over it after every oil change.
WitleyPanda
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That’s why I went for the hammerite, it more a chemical coating than a paint in the conventional form. The other option, but I have run out would be POR15 chassis black. Waxes/oils coats are only temporary coatings. With the sump being hot wax will trend to migrate. Better in chassis cavities, sills, doors etc. They do add an additional level of protection, but better over a welI prepared paint or simple coating. have lanolin coated over the paint on the new sump guard I fitted.
WitleyPanda
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Engine sump, below the bottom end, not the filter. 2012 diesel 100k+ miles.
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Mine's ahd waxoyl on the sump since new. 10 years on and no sign of corrosion. It seems to have hardened off now
