Technical  Oil leak

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Technical  Oil leak

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On to the next issue which is an annoying small oil leak.
I've looked underneath and it appears to be coming from the oil boot retainers which look newish.
My query is can these be replaced while gearbox is in place or doe's it need to come out?
Alternatively as they look new is it worth undoing the oil boot retainers bolts and cleaning and applying gasket sealant to the oil boots and retightening?
Or as its only a few drips do I live with it?
Engine is a 650 with syncro box if that makes any difference.
I've dried it off and will do another check on where its coming from.
Thanks for any advice
 

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My query is can these be replaced while gearbox is in place or doe's it need to come out?
It should be possible installing new axel boots, with the gearbox in place. Unscrew the sliding piece on the axel at the wheel. And pull them out over the axle. The first 4 screws for the axle boot plate tighten up the boot so it work as a rubber seal as itself. The next plate the one with the 4 x 13mm bolts also holds a rubber ring seal, it could be that one too.
I would buy new axle boots with bushings. if you think the leak comes from there
 
It should be possible installing new axel boots, with the gearbox in place. Unscrew the sliding piece on the axel at the wheel. And pull them out over the axle. The first 4 screws for the axle boot plate tighten up the boot so it work as a rubber seal as itself. The next plate the one with the 4 x 13mm bolts also holds a rubber ring seal, it could be that one too.
I would buy new axle boots with bushings. if you think the leak comes from there
Thanks for that info.
 
It should be possible installing new axel boots, with the gearbox in place. Unscrew the sliding piece on the axel at the wheel. And pull them out over the axle. The first 4 screws for the axle boot plate tighten up the boot so it work as a rubber seal as itself. The next plate the one with the 4 x 13mm bolts also holds a rubber ring seal, it could be that one too.
I would buy new axle boots with bushings. if you think the leak comes from there
As "Vikingsen" has already explained, yes, it IS possible to renew the drive-shaft boots with the engine/gearbox still in the car. If you haven't got access to a ramp, you will need to have the rear of the car fairly high on stands (NEVER, NEVER work under a car that is only on a 'jack') in order that you can work comfortably under the car. When you remove the rubber boot, a large 'toothed' washer may come out with it---this helps hold the diff bearings in their adjusted position. The 'toothed washer' will only fit back in one position, so before you put the new seal on, ascertain where the washer should sit, When you buy new boots, get the best, the ones preferably with an ALLOY seal-holder in it. There is a very neat dodge (I have used it, and it seems to work) to help prevent oil-leakage from round the seal in the boot against the drive-shaft---look at the "u-tube" film:--- "Axle seals conversion Fiat 126p" Although the film is in Polish, it does have English sub-titles. The job is not difficult,but it is a bit 'fiddly',especially when fitting the new 'boot' and making sure that the "toothed-washer" is in the correct position. Having said all that, if it is only a very small leak, I would be tempted to "live with it"
 
That drip on the bolt holding the clutch cover has me wondering about the origin of the leak, spend some time to be sure it is the axle boots.
With an oil drip showing on the clutch-cover, there are 2 normal places for the oil to leak and gather in that pan---(1) the rear crankshaft seal and (2), the spigot-shaft seal in the gearbox (quite common). Both are "engine out" jobs. Technically, the seal in the little bush+seal housing where the spigot-shaft exits the gearbox body is replaceable as a separate part, but in practice, it (the seal) is a bitch to remove---much easier to fit a complete new housing (not very expensive) and that housing will come with a new seal and a new bush already fitted. But again, if it only a small leak, you have to decide as to whether the size of the leak justifies quite a major amount of work. Being that the "show season" is just about to start, I personally, would just keep an eye on it, and if you DO want to do the job, use it as an "over the next winter" job.
 
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