Found this below from a guide in here.
“To undo the housing you will need a 24mm socket (I used a 15/16"), an extension bar, and a UJ adapter. Get all that together and unscrew the filter housing. There will be some oil still in there, so be careful not to spill it over the engine bay.
I found it quite difficult to get the filter and housing out from the engine bay -- it is just a little too big to be lifted out easily. What I found helped was rotating the housing 90 degrees, so that the filter was pointing up and out, then worming the whole thing out.
Drain any remaining oil by standing the filter and housing on some newspaper.
The filter cartridge is held in the housing by a circular clip, and is quite hard to pull out. Give it some welly: hold the housing with one hand, and pull the cartridge straight up and out with the other.
Clean the housing with newspaper or cloth.
Remove the old O-ring and discard.
Smear the new O-ring that comes with the new filter with clean engine oil, and replace in the groove on the housing.
Smear the felt seal on the new filter cartridge with clean oil and clip the cartridge into the housing.
Smear clean oil on the little O-ring on the overflow valve and the top of the cartridge in general.
Screw the filter and housing back onto the engine. At first do it by hand, being careful not to cross threads, and not to force anything.
As printed on the housing, torque up to 25Nm.”
As promised, here is the write-up: As with all oil-changes, it helps if you take the car out for a drive first to warm up the oil -- it will drain more easily if it is warm. However, this will make working under the car more difficult, so...
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