Technical Oil change

[F30Msport]

I guess an oil change is due. If so...

What type of oil is required?
I see there is no "filter" to be changed, but is there something do be done with the filter at the top of the engine (where the oil goes in) or the screen in the pan?
Does the drain plug need any kind of washer?

Anything else or a general guide on this?

Thanks.

 

[The Whitakers]

There are lots of debates about oils on here as what to use, it may be worth perusing some of the old threads as there are great conversations regarding. However to answer your question I use a straight forward 20/50 mineral oil.

There isn’t a filter as such but the main pulley acts as one, it is recommended to clean that out also.

Rob

 

[F30Msport]

So 20w50 is the proper weight?

 

[JumpJet]

I’m currently running Mobil 1 15W50 in mine. She’s got the slowest seep around the front main bearing (transaxle end), but it was there before I switched to synthetic. Not worth the fix.

 

[the hobbler]

Yes, for the standard 500/126 engine, a 20/50 oil is fine. As the whitakers pointed out, there isn't a filter in the normal sense. Both the 110 and 126 engine types use a centrifugal oil-filter/seperator, which is remarkably effective. The main pulley at the front of the engine has an alloy cover on it, held on with a number of 10mm (head size) bolts. Remove that cover and inside you will see a rubbery looking gunge---that is the muck which has been spun out and seperated from the engine oil. The inside of the pulley will also need cleaning out. The alloy cover will only fit on in one position as the bolts aren't equi-distant around the cover---but trying to find that position to refit the cover can be tedious, so mark both the cover and the pulley with a bit of tippex (or similar). There is a rubber 'O' ring seal between the cover and the pulley---this will need replacing. The job can be done with the engine cover removed and the engine still in situ--tedious, but possible. Don't forget to have something under the rear of the engine when you take the cover off as the contents of the pulley/cover will come out--not a lot, but enough to make a mess!

 

[F30Msport]

So it needed to be changed for sure...used a conventional 20w50. Easiest oil change ever. Next month I think I will probably clear the pully and cover and maybe switch to synthetic. Thanks for the advice.

 

[ClassicFiat500]

Just collected my Fiat 500 with 650 engine from Middle Barton Garage who have a very reputable name, they removed the engine & stripped the top end of the down & rebuilt it
then filled her with 20/50 MILLERS CLASSIC PISTONEEZE I have full confidence in their expert recommendations.
Forgot to mention they also rectified the annoying oil drip after fitting FUEL PUMP SPACER 500R/126 PUSHROD TUBE OIL SEALS SET 500/126 THIN
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL

 

[the hobbler]

That is a very good oil, which due to its "higher than normal" zinc content, can also be used as a 'running-in' oil. On my tuned 126 engine I use Millers 10/50 'Nanodrive' oil' Very pleased with it, and even when idling 'hot', i get about 25psi oil pressure.

 

[F30Msport]

Does anyone know what the o-ring for the pully cover is called? Trying to find it on Mrfiat.com.

 

[Fiona500f]

Oil filter “o” ring found it for me when I search Ricambio site.



https://www.ricambio.co.uk/image/ca...63/main/2e29-oilfilterseal-0-1-1000x1000w.jpg

 

[LiteRye]

Does anyone know what the o-ring for the pully cover is called? Trying to find it on Mrfiat.com.

I think this is what you are looking for

https://m.mrfiat.com/italian/fiat/fiat-500/engine/fiat-500-centrifugal-oil-filter-seal.html

 

[the hobbler]

Fiat 500 centrifugal oil filter seal----part number EG-500-072-3. Cost is $6, but it seems that he wants $8 to post it! I would be tempted to look through the site, see if there is anything else that you need and get a decent sized order to justify the postage cost.

 

[JumpJet]

Fiat 500 centrifugal oil filter seal----part number EG-500-072-3. Cost is $6, but it seems that he wants $8 to post it! I would be tempted to look through the site, see if there is anything else that you need and get a decent sized order to justify the postage cost.

You'll always pay more on MrFiat.com - just the tax of being in such a small US market. If you have a large order, you can often save ordering from the UK or EU vendors. The shipping isn't cheap, but the cost of parts is less. It's just figuring out the tipping point. The nice thing about places like Ricambio is that they ship DHL and has often arrived 2-3 days after ordering.

 

[Veloman518]

I almost always use Ricambio unless it's something really small. They are always cheaper than Mr. Fiat and the shipping is strangely reasonable so I often end up saving in the end. As Matt pointed out the DHL shipping is very fast from the UK and I usually get my parts as quick as a U.S. shipment and sometimes faster.

 

[wingless]

Just completed my first oil change on my new-to-me 1968 Fiat 500L.

In my case I removed the oil pan to permit extensive cleaning and internal inspection, after removing / replacing the oil pan drain plug.

The internals were in great condition. As expected, there was a very small amount of sludge on the bottom of the pan, below the slightly higher drain plug lip.

The oil slinger (filter) cover was removed and the internals were cleaned w/ a toothbrush and solvent. The internals were not that bad. A new O-Ring seal was used prior to cover replacement.

VERY much like the easy engine cover removal / replacement to improve service access. Disappointed that the rear engine mount restricts access for cleaning the engine side of the oil slinger. Will use my engine lift to permit temporary rear engine mount removal for inspection / cleaning during the next oil change.

Used Penn Grade 1 20W-50 Synthetic Oil during the change. I like the high phosphorus and sulfur of this ZDDP oil.

 

[createcartel]

Good work, it’s a job I need to crack on with.

 

[the hobbler]

Just completed my first oil change on my new-to-me 1968 Fiat 500L.

In my case I removed the oil pan to permit extensive cleaning and internal inspection, after removing / replacing the oil pan drain plug.

The internals were in great condition. As expected, there was a very small amount of sludge on the bottom of the pan, below the slightly higher drain plug lip.

The oil slinger (filter) cover was removed and the internals were cleaned w/ a toothbrush and solvent. The internals were not that bad. A new O-Ring seal was used prior to cover replacement.

VERY much like the easy engine cover removal / replacement to improve service access. Disappointed that the rear engine mount restricts access for cleaning the engine side of the oil slinger. Will use my engine lift to permit temporary rear engine mount removal for inspection / cleaning during the next oil change.

Used Penn Grade 1 20W-50 Synthetic Oil during the change. I like the high phosphorus and sulfur of this ZDDP oil.


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I notice "Wingless" that you have use a 'cork' sump-pan gasket-----from experience I would suggest that the 'rubberoid' is a better choice. The cork gaskets tend to get squashed and pushed out when tightening the sump-pan retaining screws----the rubberoid gasket does not rally suffer this problem

 

[wingless]

I notice "Wingless" that you have use a 'cork' sump-pan gasket-----from experience I would suggest that the 'rubberoid' is a better choice. The cork gaskets tend to get squashed and pushed out when tightening the sump-pan retaining screws----the rubberoid gasket does not rally suffer this problem

Thanks for the info.

The image shows the "original" gasket. A replacment gasket has been received that is also a "cork" material.

My limited search has not located a rubber gasket for this location. Is there a link for a rubber gasket for my 1968 500L oil pan?

For the valve cover I did get a very nice silicone rubber gasket that should hold up w/ removal / replacement when adjusting the rocker arm tappets.

 

[the hobbler]

Thanks for the info.

The image shows the "original" gasket. A replacment gasket has been received that is also a "cork" material.

My limited search has not located a rubber gasket for this location. Is there a link for a rubber gasket for my 1968 500L oil pan?

For the valve cover I did get a very nice silicone rubber gasket that should hold up w/ removal / replacement when adjusting the rocker arm tappets.

If you look on the "Ricambio" web-site-----part number 'RIC-188'

 

[wingless]

If you look on the "Ricambio" web-site-----part number 'RIC-188'

Here is that rubber RIC-881 gasket.

Thanks for the reference. I'll keep that in mind for the future.