That is ofcourse quite possible. But I did suspect it of being on the way out when i bought the car. It had been sitting at the garage I bought it from for a little over 3 months, and the startermotor didn't sound as though it was easily turning the engine over. Like it was laking power. This is much improved with the new battery.
Technical newby with a 97 Brava, and problems
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Technical newby with a 97 Brava, and problems
skaramazoo
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Of course. It is bound to have improved with a brand new battery on. Thing is, on no account should a new battery be discharged below 80% and remain like that for long. It should be kept in top notch condition at all times even with the use of a battery charger or by disconnecting the negative (-) terminal when the car is to stay unused for more than 3-4 days.
So
Next problem, the temp doesn't seem to rise very much. When the car is idling for a long time the temperature rises to the mid point mark and seems to stay there (The fan kicks in I think, didn't really pay attention last time) but if I move at any sort of speed the temp drops almost all the way to cold. The heater does get warm but it seems to be taking longer than it should. Is this definetly the thermostat? I would rather not replace it if I don't have to as I don't like mukking about with the cooling system too much and the thing is bloody expensive. I'm trying the sofly-softly approach of a hammer and a few gentle taps on the housing this evening so see if it helps.
Next problem, the temp doesn't seem to rise very much. When the car is idling for a long time the temperature rises to the mid point mark and seems to stay there (The fan kicks in I think, didn't really pay attention last time) but if I move at any sort of speed the temp drops almost all the way to cold. The heater does get warm but it seems to be taking longer than it should. Is this definetly the thermostat? I would rather not replace it if I don't have to as I don't like mukking about with the cooling system too much and the thing is bloody expensive. I'm trying the sofly-softly approach of a hammer and a few gentle taps on the housing this evening so see if it helps.
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Yes it is thermostate. When engine reach 1/2 scale (90 degrees celsium) it should stay more or less there (80-100 degrees Celsium). You can tap it with hammer if it is stuck. If it would not help you can solve this problem only with changing thermostate. It is quite tricky to change it on 1.6 engine, so better to leave this work for Fiat service. Thermostate+ work cost around 100eur.
Apart from the thermostat, would it be sensible to change any other sensors/senders while I'm at it? (While it might be tricky job, I do intent to try and tackle it myself.)
Another question I just came up with. I was just reading up on some other problems here on the forums and read a comment about a noise under the bonnet after switching of the engine. I've had that everyt time I turn of the since I've had the car. Sounds like a steppermotor adjusting a valve or something. Since it has always done it I figured it was normal, but from what I can now find it might not be. Anybody got any idea what it might be and what can be done about it? (Throttle position sensor or something?)
Another question I just came up with. I was just reading up on some other problems here on the forums and read a comment about a noise under the bonnet after switching of the engine. I've had that everyt time I turn of the since I've had the car. Sounds like a steppermotor adjusting a valve or something. Since it has always done it I figured it was normal, but from what I can now find it might not be. Anybody got any idea what it might be and what can be done about it? (Throttle position sensor or something?)
I don't recommend you to spend any money for sensors, etc. until you are sure. Steppermotor utters a sound normally.
Thermostate is worth to change, apart from cabine heating you will improve fuel consumption, engine will run smoother, you will get a little more power, and engine will wear less
Thermostate is worth to change, apart from cabine heating you will improve fuel consumption, engine will run smoother, you will get a little more power, and engine will wear less
Is there a way to check if the coolant is actually staying too cold or if its just the gauge? I felt the radiator and engine today after a dozen or so kilometers driving, and they felt warm to the touch, so I want to be sure I really need the new thermo or if its just a weird sensor glitch or something (I tried the "give the gauges a good whack" technique, which only fixed the dim backlighting on the speedo. So theres atleast that 
)
Is it worth investing 70 something euros in a brand new thermostat or is a good secondhand unit also suitable?
I know, questions, questions, questions. Sorry 'bout that
)Is it worth investing 70 something euros in a brand new thermostat or is a good secondhand unit also suitable?
I know, questions, questions, questions. Sorry 'bout that
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Of coure, you can measure temperature if you have that kind of thermometer. A lot more simple method is to touch hoses for radiator. If thermostate is working correctly radiator and hoses should stay cold because thermostate do not allow collant to flow into radiator until engine collant temperature is under 95°C. Your rad and hoses will be heating from starting engine because faulty thermostate allows collant to flow unimpeded.
I would never use a second hand thermostat.
I managed to get my hands on a replacement fuel rail with injectors. This fuel rail is from a later type with a schrader valve at one end. My own car has a hose running from that side to the inlet manifold. Can I just swap the fuelrails over and cap off the connection at the inlet manifold or should I swap the injectors out?
And about the thermostat, how important is it to torque it down properly? I don't have a torque wrench atm, but I want to get it replaced before the winter sets in proper.
And about the thermostat, how important is it to torque it down properly? I don't have a torque wrench atm, but I want to get it replaced before the winter sets in proper.
The thermostat bolts should be tightened to 25Nm 18lbft. Its not much you would get away with using your judgement. Just dont over do it because the aluminium threads will strip easily. If it leaks thats inconvienent if you strip the threads its a nightmare.
Then keep checking your coolant engine temperature and the thermostat for leaks
Then keep checking your coolant engine temperature and the thermostat for leaks
Well, it took 6 hours (And a cold and snowy bike ride to the store for some hoseclamps) but I got the new thermostat on. Its now nice and tosty inside within a few minutes, and the engine warms up to the middle mark pretty fast.
Haven't found any leaks yet either
Thanks for all the advice Only major job left to do now is swap out the dodgy injector.
Haven't found any leaks yet either
Thanks for all the advice
Only major job left to do now is swap out the dodgy injector.