Technical New clutch kit replacement 80sx 1.2

[circolo]

I've a feeling my clutch is on it's last legs.

Symptons:

1. From cold I sometimes get judder when lifting the releasing the clutch peddle, and setting off in 1st gear. This stops, once the car has run for a while, and warmed up.

2. Idleing, and in neutral. If I depress the clutch peddle, there's a definite moment of resistance about half way down the peddle travel, push through this and the resistance eases back to a normal amount of resistance.

3. Sometimes I can hear a rattling sound, when I push the clutch peddle to the floor, with the engine running. (This doesn't matter if it's in gear or in neutral).

4. The peddle feels a little stiffer, and springy than it used to.

It's been like this for about 8 months now, and not getting worse. But it's clearly not right, so I'd like to get this fixed.

I've a feeling one of some of the springs in the actual clutch plate, (the anti-shock springs), have either broken or become dislodged.

Couple of questions for anyone with experience of the Bravo 80sx clutch:

(a) Do you guys think this is a possible DIY job?
(b) If so, with a set of ramps, a few jacks, and plenty of tools - is this possible?
(c) I thought the engine need to be supported from the top by a hoist when doing the clutches on Bravos, is this right? Or can a workaround be done with this?
(d) Apart from Haynes, is there a (shorter route) guide to replacing the clutch on the 1.2 Bravo?
(e) How much would be a good price for the clutch kit for this car? I've seen prices ranging from £75 to £175.
(f) How much would you expect to pay for the clutch to be replaced on the Bravo at a garage? (If I decide to go this route).
(g) Any recommendations of outfits that would do this work? Or is this a "Kwik-Fit" or similar type of job?

As always the help on here is much appreciated.

 

[arc]

(a) Do you guys think this is a possible DIY job? yes, def

(b) If so, with a set of ramps, a few jacks, and plenty of tools - is this possible? yup, forget the ramps and i like to have at least 2 trolley jacks and 2 axle stands

(c) I thought the engine need to be supported from the top by a hoist when doing the
clutches on Bravos, is this right? Or can a workaround be done with this?

no, it doesn't. Get a bit of wood and lay it along the sump. Put a trolley jack under this and then jack that till it takes the weight of the engine.

(d) Apart from Haynes, is there a (shorter route) guide to replacing the clutch on the 1.2 Bravo? Haynes will say take the driveshafts totally out. You shouldn't need to. If you release the CV boots off the inner CV joints, and remove both front wheels, remove the bolts that hold the hub carrier to the suspension strut, you can then pull the driveshaft far enough to release it from the inner cv joint. once you've done that, bag up the inner end of the shaft so it doesnt get dirt in it.

(e) How much would be a good price for the clutch kit for this car? I've seen prices ranging from £75 to £175

shop4parts do a kit at £60, and that is about all i would pay for one.

 

[circolo]

Thanks for your reply.

Regarding the DIY side of this, it's not so much the technical side, but more the number of heavy parts that need supporting, and I'd hate to get to a point of no return. For example, transmission drained and off, engine supported, then realising I need another jack or something. I guess that's down to planning.

I've a couple of other quick questions - again any help is much appreciated.

1. Buypartsby have a clutch kit at £37.24 plus vat, it's a LUK clutch kit - any good? For me as long as it lasts for at least a year that's fine.

2. How long do you think it would take someone like me to do the job? (Previous experience with lots of other mechanical jobs on cars - just not gearbox/clutch stuff).

3. And although I'm pretty much decided on doing this myself - if it were to be done at a garage, what would be the expected cost including the parts & labour?

Once again any advice and help is much appreciated.

 

[The Professor]

LUK are a quality manufacturer, you shouldn't have any trouble with a clutch from them. Time-wise, based on similar installations I've worked on before, if I were doing it I'd expect to take 6 hours or so. You can do it much, much quicker than that, but I don't always want to work like it's a pitstop and like to clean things up a bit whilst they're off the car and take a few breaks. Saying that, I paid around £350 to have the clutch changed at the local clutch centre - it went mid-week and I needed the car back on the road, so took the path of least resistance (physically, not financially!!!)

 

[arc]

Thanks for your reply.

Regarding the DIY side of this, it's not so much the technical side, but more the number of heavy parts that need supporting, and I'd hate to get to a point of no return. For example, transmission drained and off, engine supported, then realising I need another jack or something. I guess that's down to planning.

I've a couple of other quick questions - again any help is much appreciated.

1. Buypartsby have a clutch kit at £37.24 plus vat, it's a LUK clutch kit - any good? For me as long as it lasts for at least a year that's fine.

2. How long do you think it would take someone like me to do the job? (Previous experience with lots of other mechanical jobs on cars - just not gearbox/clutch stuff).

3. And although I'm pretty much decided on doing this myself - if it were to be done at a garage, what would be the expected cost including the parts & labour?

Once again any advice and help is much appreciated.

no problem

To remove the actual box, it is much easier with two people. With regards to supporting everything, like i say. Axle stand on each sill. Trolley jack and bit of wood on sump. Then i normally use another jack to take the weight of the box whilst loosening it. But you dont *need* do to that as it does sit on dowels on the engine. When removing the box, if you remove the rear mount arm / frame, the job is *much* easier. You'll see which bit i mean when you look at it.

You don't need to drain the gearbox oil as you are NOT taking the diff cups out, just pulling the shafts out of them.

 

[bridges]

I've a feeling my clutch is on it's last legs.

Symptons:

1. From cold I sometimes get judder when lifting the releasing the clutch peddle, and setting off in 1st gear. This stops, once the car has run for a while, and warmed up.

2. Idleing, and in neutral. If I depress the clutch peddle, there's a definite moment of resistance about half way down the peddle travel, push through this and the resistance eases back to a normal amount of resistance.

3. Sometimes I can hear a rattling sound, when I push the clutch peddle to the floor, with the engine running. (This doesn't matter if it's in gear or in neutral).

4. The peddle feels a little stiffer, and springy than it used to.

It's been like this for about 8 months now, and not getting worse. But it's clearly not right, so I'd like to get this fixed.

I've a feeling one of some of the springs in the actual clutch plate, (the anti-shock springs), have either broken or become dislodged.

Couple of questions for anyone with experience of the Bravo 80sx clutch:

(a) Do you guys think this is a possible DIY job?
(b) If so, with a set of ramps, a few jacks, and plenty of tools - is this possible?
(c) I thought the engine need to be supported from the top by a hoist when doing the clutches on Bravos, is this right? Or can a workaround be done with this?
(d) Apart from Haynes, is there a (shorter route) guide to replacing the clutch on the 1.2 Bravo?
(e) How much would be a good price for the clutch kit for this car? I've seen prices ranging from £75 to £175.
(f) How much would you expect to pay for the clutch to be replaced on the Bravo at a garage? (If I decide to go this route).
(g) Any recommendations of outfits that would do this work? Or is this a "Kwik-Fit" or similar type of job?

As always the help on here is much appreciated.

1, Clutch judder on the 1.2 is common. I have myself replaced a clutch on a 1.2 punto. Judder occurs in 1st and reverse.

On examining the clutch, I noted. The clutch friction plate seemed fine. The clutch pressure plate was worn, particularly on the diaphragm springs (fingers) themselves.
Also the springs were worn where the release bearing was making contact with them.

I suspect its the pressure plate giving resistance. i suspect the release bearing is the sound of the rattle.

Once I had changed the clutch it was fine and still is 2 years on.


Am I right in thinking that you recently changed the slave cylinder?
If so we can eliminate it.

What is the mileage on your car?

As far as DIY. It is a lot easier than the coupe due to the components being lighter the bravo is the same chassis as the coupe so with just a 1.2 there is more room. Personally I have an engine hoist and this makes manouvering a gearbox far easier although i'm sure it can be done taking more time and using jacks etc.
remember in worst case scenario you can hire a hoist.