General New 4x4 Cross Underseal - Dinitrol v Lanoguard v Waxoyl

[Mouse1903]

I'll be getting my new Cross 4x4 undersealed to protect it long term. I got Dinitrol done on my RS Megane last year which was 6 years old at the time. Only the rear beam was a bit crusty and they treated any corrosion before applying the Dinitrol then doing the cavity wax. I'd read Dinitrol was overally a better product hence I chose it over Waxoyl.

Now someone recently mentioned Lanoguard to me so I'm interested to see how this compares to Dinitrol? What experiences do people have here?

 

[mj2k]

None except with waxoyl but I'll be getting my car rustproofed sometime soon, so I'm watching this with interest...

 

[lunchbeers]

I'd not heard great things about Lanoguard, I'll see if I can rember what it was that was the problem.

From what I recall from rowing the landy forums, I think it wasn't particularly robust, and as it's active ingredient is lanolin, it hums a bit and needed frequent reapplication, the best part was it was easy to apply, but also easy to overdo it.

I think Waxoyl is not the product it used to be (along with hammerite paint and actual red oxide primer). I've not used Dinitrol, but hear it's a commonly recommended treatment.

Watching with interest as have also considered this.

 

[mj2k]

Ah, is Lanoguard the stuff which smells of sheep?

 

[lunchbeers]

Ah, is Lanoguard the stuff which smells of sheep?

I think so, I've never smelled a sheep so can't comment if it's a nice smell or not

 

[mj2k]

I think so, I've never smelled a sheep so can't comment if it's a nice smell or not

I wouldn't recommend smelling one to find out

Wow, this drifted OT quickly, from rustproofing to sheep sniffing

 

[Motorcyclist Colin]

Look at Bilt Hamber products, if doing it yourself.

 

[jackwhoo]

Dynax ub

 

[Tom95]

Another thing to bear in mind is that anything animal-based has the potential to attract unwanted critters into the vehicle

 

[mj2k]

Another thing to bear in mind is that anything animal-based has the potential to attract unwanted critters into the vehicle

Good point there, I live out in the sticks so the chances of attracting unwanted attention from rodents (or stag parties) with the smell of sheep would be a big negative, at least for me.

BTW totally OT but a big thumbs up for the Pug 504 in your signature - very tough, under-rated classic with an interesting drivetrain; always fancied one

 

[gar074]

Good point there, I live out in the sticks so the chances of attracting unwanted attention from rodents (or stag parties) with the smell of sheep would be a big negative, at least for me.

BTW totally OT but a big thumbs up for the Pug 504 in your signature - very tough, under-rated classic with an interesting drivetrain; always fancied one

Thumbs up on both these points. I was travelling in Southern Africa a few years ago and was struck by how many 504s I saw, battered to hell (many of the roads are gravel, and extremely punishing) but still soldiering on. They seem indestructible.

 

[RalphM]

No experience of the others but did the Pandas rear axel with Waxoyl about 12 mouths back,
its part way through it's second winter now on our rough dirty and often flooded country
lanes and still looks good.

 

[The Panda Nut]

I am injterested if they treat exisiting rust. We ahve cars in teh family that are not new and not particularly rust so it sounds like an excellent idea. Waht di the RS Megan cost to do please?

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

The body shell itself is fully galvanised, so you shouldn't need to be treating that or the box sections of the shell (so can save a few quid). But, as we have seen in other threads, the suspension beams, bars etc, and on the 4x4s the metal sump guard, are very clearly not protected and certainly any form of rust protection there would be money well spent. Interested to see the 'best' answer as I may well do mine sometime (bt not until winter and its salt is well behind us -- don't want to be covering (and so, trapping) anything salty against the car.

 

[TTR]

Eh up all,

From years of experience from using old engine oil to waxoyl, on Mk1 Escorts onwards, I have used Dinitrol on my Cross 4x4 and it’s the best by far.

Like spraying prep is everything - clean, treat surface rust, mask up, apply top coat.

Finish is great really tough and lasts well.

HTH

 

[Mouse1903]

I am injterested if they treat exisiting rust. We ahve cars in teh family that are not new and not particularly rust so it sounds like an excellent idea. Waht di the RS Megan cost to do please?

I'm sure I was around £650 including VAT. These are the guys I used:

Car Underseal Specialists, Underbody Protection Glasgow. Waxoyl & Dinitrol

Waxoyl treatment centres Scotland. Dinitrol Approved Applicators. Rust protection and Car Underseal specialists. Vehicle treatment centres. RUST nightmare.

preserveprotect.co.uk

 

[Mouse1903]

I think I will stick with the dinitrol as the protection is good and it's reasonably prices from the professionals

 

[lambou1d]

Well, being a sheep farmer with a life long history of Land Rovers I have used Waxoyl, Dinitrol, Bilt Hamber and Lanolin based stuff, all have their pro's and con's.
Waxoyled my Panda 4x4 two years ago and it's like I applied it yesterday and only cost £30.
I use Bilt Hamber aerosols for in-cavities as it creeps really well into seams and you don't need to clean the spray gun.
Dinitrol for the exposed parts of the Landy chassis but it can peal and get water behind it and I wouldn't use it on any existing rust even if treated - cos that's a waste of time (treating only converts the top surface of the rust, trust me).
However, by far the best for using on areas which already have rust is Lanolin (various brands) applied thinned and in hot weather. it seems to soak into the rust and stop it going further but will need application every 2 years min. Doesn't smell - or I don't notice it!! Anything metal left out for sheep to rub against never rusts. Lanolin is quicker and easier but some people are allergic to Lanolin so do a test (on your skin) before spraying!
I think that any of these treatments are only really cost effective if you are prepared to do it yourself. For the price you pay someone else to do it, you can buy a pressure washer, compressor, spray kit and the product and you'll have the kit for next time. It's not hard, just messy.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

A long time ago (so things may have changed) my late mum's Renault was Dinitrol protected. But, as @lambou1d says above, it forms a skin which can crack and peel, letting water in behind. This led to some fairly spectacular rust forming in the front wings that I always said would not have happened if left as from the factory and the mud washed out now and again. Car bodies weren't galvanised then, but are now, and that offers by far the best protection to the bodywork (including box sections). However, the thin black paint on the suspension parts (especially the rear beam), and the 4x4 under tray, is appalling and there, some from of non-setting coating (wax/lanolin or similar), reapplied now and again would seem to be an excellent precaution to take. I plan to do mine in the summer when everything's warm and dry.

 

[KPat]

Cosmoline. If you can find it.