Andrew as advised by Peter I went to Halfords and bought some R03 refills. They are 16" long so you need to cut them down but they fit perfectly in the stainless steel wipers from Axel Gerstl.
General Murphio's Meanderings
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General Murphio's Meanderings
Andrew as advised by Peter I went to Halfords and bought some R03 refills. They are 16" long so you need to cut them down but they fit perfectly in the stainless steel wipers from Axel Gerstl.
I have been tinkering again with the 650 engine and it's currently sitting on top of a pallet on a wheel dolly but I noticed that the sump gasket is leaking. It's a brand new sump and gasket but they do have a tendency to sort of fold in on themselves in places as you tighten the bolts up. I remember when I was putting it on, it was a real pain as the bolts were only just over a little over finger tight and the thinner parts of the gasket were getting squeezed inside.
Do you reckon this Permatex silicon sealant would help in getting a better seal? I have read reviews online from guys in the US saying how good it is. It sounds ideal in the fact that you apply it and tighten it up a bit, then leave it a while, even as long as over night before you torque it up. Which in theory it should prevent the gasket from getting squeezed, as it should have bonded quite well to the metal before the final torquing.
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OP
OP
There are several grades of this sealant but this "high torque" version was one recommended for a chainsaw repair. This has no gasket at the base of the cylinder and that joint is the equivalent of the head and sump gasket combined. In a two-stroke engine there can be no gas leak at joints because there are pressures within the crankcase on which the delivery of fuel depends. The same or similar sealant is used by the manufacturer for this application and my repair, after fitting a new piston and barrel is working well.
Because you tighten it by hand initially, the squidging out is not so bad. The consistency is reasonably firm and you can keep an even bead quite easily. The next day's final tightening of the screws or nuts is then putting the cured sealant under a stress that it's designed to withstand and which increases its resistance to leakage.
If I did my sump again I would consider doing without the gasket completely. That might require a wider bead than I have used until now but I'm confident it would work. Something similar has been used at the factory on the 5th gear cover on my C3 Picasso gearbox. I've bought a replacement and taken the cover off to check the gears so I will be re-doing that.
It sets harder than standard sealant and the light grey stands out so you can see the extruded sealant easily and have confidence that it's done a continuous seal. Although I have only done about ten miles since sealing the timing cover, I thoroughly degreased the front of the engine so that any leak would be obvious. There's not a trace at the moment, which you would also expect from a traditional gasket, so only time will tell.
As you can ascertain..I'm a convert. My next use of it will be to replace the rear cover on the gearbox. I've got a 126 cover (don't tell anyone
) , and once the seal for the selector rod has been replaced, that will be going on without a gasket.That should see me with a completely oil-leak-free Fiat 500...but for how long?:bang:
Ok good to know Peter. Off the back of this I have just ordered some from eBay. It doesn't seem to be very widely available in the UK, the seller on eBay is UK based but called US Automotive, they seem to have a lot of stuff from the US that looks good.
Thinking about it Permatex are the same guys who made the adhesive I used for sticking the weather strips in the front side windows and that was decent stuff.
Thinking about it Permatex are the same guys who made the adhesive I used for sticking the weather strips in the front side windows and that was decent stuff.
OP
OP
First, just an "exciting" photo of the extruded sealant now fully cured. I used a bead only about 4mm wide so it just shows how tight the joint gap must be and hence, how little product you need.
PT1_2064 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
I am determined not to risk again, the potentially dodgy incident I could have caused when the centre roof bar dived onto the road. I need a secure fixing and won't ever trust those rivets again, so a couple of M5 screws surplus from our kitchen unit handles are a reasonable compromise. I'm using nyloc nuts and I have drilled out the original bottom rivet as a washer. I've cut the tail off the black header of the rivet and will stick that over the flat-domed, screw-head using PU sealant. I had some thick rubber to make pads for where the bar rests on the roof; even the original rubbers quickly wear through and cause scratches and dents.
PT1_2061 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
I've decided to live with the chipped paint on it, caused when the bar fell on the road and will touch up whn I get the right colour. I may have to adjust the bend at the tips if the bar if the thick rubber doesn't settle a little, but at least it's all back together and looking right again.
We will be back on a meander tomorrow, with a visit to a private castle planned. So I hope I can get close enough to get a photo of the ancient structure next to the castle.
PT1_2064 by Peter Thompson, on FlickrI am determined not to risk again, the potentially dodgy incident I could have caused when the centre roof bar dived onto the road. I need a secure fixing and won't ever trust those rivets again, so a couple of M5 screws surplus from our kitchen unit handles are a reasonable compromise. I'm using nyloc nuts and I have drilled out the original bottom rivet as a washer. I've cut the tail off the black header of the rivet and will stick that over the flat-domed, screw-head using PU sealant. I had some thick rubber to make pads for where the bar rests on the roof; even the original rubbers quickly wear through and cause scratches and dents.
PT1_2061 by Peter Thompson, on FlickrI've decided to live with the chipped paint on it, caused when the bar fell on the road and will touch up whn I get the right colour. I may have to adjust the bend at the tips if the bar if the thick rubber doesn't settle a little, but at least it's all back together and looking right again.
We will be back on a meander tomorrow, with a visit to a private castle planned. So I hope I can get close enough to get a photo of the ancient structure next to the castle.
Sealant looks like it will work well. So did you use a gasket as well?
So to apply, if you are using a gasket spread a bead around on both sides of the gasket. Tighten the nuts or bolts up until they are just a little over finger tight or finger tight? Leave overnight and then torque up. Does that sound right?
A friend of mine has a classic Mini with a supercharger fitted and it keeps sucking in the gasket between it and the inlet manifold causing an air leak, so I have told him to try this sealant.
So to apply, if you are using a gasket spread a bead around on both sides of the gasket. Tighten the nuts or bolts up until they are just a little over finger tight or finger tight? Leave overnight and then torque up. Does that sound right?
A friend of mine has a classic Mini with a supercharger fitted and it keeps sucking in the gasket between it and the inlet manifold causing an air leak, so I have told him to try this sealant.
OP
OP
Tony, I didn't use a gasket but maybe it would be a bit too brave to leave that out on the sump
I have obviously misread the instruction slightly as it says finger tight for an hour and then full tighten.
For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a residue-free solvent such as Permatex® Brake & Parts Cleaner.
Cut nozzle to desired bead size. Gaskets are best formed using a 1/16" to 1/4" (2 to 6 mm) bead.
Apply a continuous, even bead of silicone to one surface, surrounding all bolt holes. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet. Finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around flange. Allow to dry for one hour then retighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Silicone will skin over in one hour and fully cure in 24 hours under normal conditions. Allow more time for cold or very dry conditions.
I had everything as clean as a whistle. Don't smooth it flat and keep the bead as neat as you can. I left the nozzle at its narrowest. I suppose you'll have to do the sump then carefully place the gasket and repeat on that. Take a deep breath and try to hit the right spot first attempt when placing the sump. There's a temptation to overtighten thick, soft gaskets like that. So I use a weak threadlock on clean screws when tightening them not much more than handtight even at the finish.
I have obviously misread the instruction slightly as it says finger tight for an hour and then full tighten.
For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a residue-free solvent such as Permatex® Brake & Parts Cleaner.
Cut nozzle to desired bead size. Gaskets are best formed using a 1/16" to 1/4" (2 to 6 mm) bead.
Apply a continuous, even bead of silicone to one surface, surrounding all bolt holes. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet. Finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around flange. Allow to dry for one hour then retighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Silicone will skin over in one hour and fully cure in 24 hours under normal conditions. Allow more time for cold or very dry conditions.
I had everything as clean as a whistle. Don't smooth it flat and keep the bead as neat as you can. I left the nozzle at its narrowest. I suppose you'll have to do the sump then carefully place the gasket and repeat on that. Take a deep breath and try to hit the right spot first attempt when placing the sump. There's a temptation to overtighten thick, soft gaskets like that. So I use a weak threadlock on clean screws when tightening them not much more than handtight even at the finish.
OP
OP
My modified roof-bar connection worked well...good start to the day.
A replacement gearbox selector end cover arrived first thing. It has the little seal for the rod rather than relying on an "O" ring so helping prevent leaks. It is off a late 126 so has a tapping which I presume is for a reversing light switch. I'll need to work out the thread size or get a switch just to fill the gap.
I didn't have time for pics but will get some when fitting it.
BUT I didn't get to my castellated destination today because we BROKE DOWN
About two miles from home there was a very slight miss and then a steady loss of power like when you run out of fuel. First instinct was that I've been messing with the points and timing so I must have got something wrong. But a thorough check eliminated points gap, timing, spark at plugs and king lead. There was fuel gushing into carb when the engine was cranked and fuel flooded out when the main jet was removed.
So Murf was towed home on the A-frame to the bemusement of other car drivers
At home I've gone further and had a mini-stripdown of the carb and completely gone back to first principles setting the points and timing. But there's not even a splutter from the engine.
The spark is good but it's not blue and there is quite a bit of crackle when you open the points. So have we been attacked by the infamous condenser gremlin?
I'll not get much chance to play tomorrow so for the present Murphio is in a coma.
A replacement gearbox selector end cover arrived first thing. It has the little seal for the rod rather than relying on an "O" ring so helping prevent leaks. It is off a late 126 so has a tapping which I presume is for a reversing light switch. I'll need to work out the thread size or get a switch just to fill the gap.
I didn't have time for pics but will get some when fitting it.
BUT I didn't get to my castellated destination today because we BROKE DOWN
About two miles from home there was a very slight miss and then a steady loss of power like when you run out of fuel. First instinct was that I've been messing with the points and timing so I must have got something wrong. But a thorough check eliminated points gap, timing, spark at plugs and king lead. There was fuel gushing into carb when the engine was cranked and fuel flooded out when the main jet was removed.
So Murf was towed home on the A-frame to the bemusement of other car drivers
At home I've gone further and had a mini-stripdown of the carb and completely gone back to first principles setting the points and timing. But there's not even a splutter from the engine.
The spark is good but it's not blue and there is quite a bit of crackle when you open the points. So have we been attacked by the infamous condenser gremlin?
I'll not get much chance to play tomorrow so for the present Murphio is in a coma.
H A
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That is bad luck, I buy the most expensive condensers that I can find.
Cheap crappy condensers are rubbish, fail when hot, I am sure you will be out and about again soon.
If you have fuel, compression and spark, then it must run, just be thankfull that there is no ECU with loads of sensors attached.
H A
P.S. Any water in the petrol? that caught me out once.
You know what you need? Now that your doing all this modding on Murphio!!!!
My only concession to modding so far, 123 ignition. It's a mechanical piece of artwork.
:rumour: this comes from the man who can fry electronic ignition modules.
My only concession to modding so far, 123 ignition. It's a mechanical piece of artwork.
:rumour: this comes from the man who can fry electronic ignition modules.
the hobbler
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Where do you buy your condensers from H.A.? I have been using a 'Swiftune
Competition' condenser--absolutely NO problems at all.
Competition' condenser--absolutely NO problems at all.
H A
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I use these, have had no issues, I tend to go for the most expensive option when there is a choice.
http://webshop.fiat500126.com/katalog/artikelinfo/7622/capacitor-made-by-beru
The main issue with 500 restoration, is that a lot of the available parts are not that great, chrome that does not last longer than a year, as an example.
If you are using competition quality condensers, they should be expensive and good.
H A
OP
OP
Where do you buy your condensers from H.A.? I have been using a 'Swiftune
Competition' condenser--absolutely NO problems at all.
The recommendations you give, Tom, and the description on the website point to this being the most perfect solution other than a full electronic distributor.
The catch being that the current price, including delivery, is over £40.
...and then, that might not be the problem in my case?!?!?
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But would a bad condensor explain fuel gushing out of the carb? No saying this is the issue, but I had my float fill up with fuel from a tiny hole. It caused fuel to stream out of the drip tray and tube.
OP
OP
Luxe, what I meant by that was that I know I had fuel in the bowl by removing the jet in situ. Later I check and the float is OK.
In fact I have no Idea what's wrong as everything seems good to go. :bang:
Ok got it now. Regarding the condensor, I mixed up the leads at my coil when installing my rebuilt engine and this caused my condensor to fry. With the condensor bad the engine just would not start, ie no spark.
OP
OP
SOLVED.....
@H A, hold out your hand and put it there! You were on the mark....ie. water!
I had been puzzled to see a thin film of emulsified oil under the rocker cover....wierd on a Fiat 500, especially one that gets the use mine does. After swapping nearly everything electrical; condenser, coil, rotor arm, cap, old points back on etc etc. And checking and re-checking timing, adjusting the one tappet that was a bit tight, I thought more about that wetness.
After my recent sealing of the timing case I degreased everything down there. I only used an old squeezy bottle to wash it off but I think the engine was running for part of the time and will have sucked in some water through the joints in the cowling and possiby around the spark plug holes in it.
So I replaced the air filter as a precaution and completely stripped the carb. On various jets there was a definite sign of something less volatile than petrol. Murf was still reluctant to start but at least he was coughing now and clearing his throat. I decided that a tow-start might be the thing but couldn't wait for Sheila. Eventually it was like when the rebuilt engine first started, I had to just keep the starter revving like you're not meant to for a continuous 45 seconds or so and away he went again.
Lesson well learned but I must admit to be still leaning towards the 123 ignition after reading up on the "quality" of modern condenser and knowing the terrible quality of the dizzy cap and arm I first bought.
[ame]https://youtu.be/FghjfkJ4Zyc[/ame]
[ame]https://youtu.be/KMj5zL7fZr4[/ame]
.....@H A, hold out your hand and put it there! You were on the mark....ie. water!
I had been puzzled to see a thin film of emulsified oil under the rocker cover....wierd on a Fiat 500, especially one that gets the use mine does. After swapping nearly everything electrical; condenser, coil, rotor arm, cap, old points back on etc etc. And checking and re-checking timing, adjusting the one tappet that was a bit tight, I thought more about that wetness.
After my recent sealing of the timing case I degreased everything down there. I only used an old squeezy bottle to wash it off but I think the engine was running for part of the time and will have sucked in some water through the joints in the cowling and possiby around the spark plug holes in it.
So I replaced the air filter as a precaution and completely stripped the carb. On various jets there was a definite sign of something less volatile than petrol
. Murf was still reluctant to start but at least he was coughing now and clearing his throat. I decided that a tow-start might be the thing but couldn't wait for Sheila. Eventually it was like when the rebuilt engine first started, I had to just keep the starter revving like you're not meant to for a continuous 45 seconds or so and away he went again.Lesson well learned but I must admit to be still leaning towards the 123 ignition after reading up on the "quality" of modern condenser and knowing the terrible quality of the dizzy cap and arm I first bought.
[ame]https://youtu.be/FghjfkJ4Zyc[/ame]
[ame]https://youtu.be/KMj5zL7fZr4[/ame]
H A
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SOLVED
@H A, hold out your hand and put it there! You were on the mark....ie. water!
I must admit to be still leaning towards the 123 ignition after reading up on the "quality" of modern condenser and knowing the terrible quality of the dizzy cap and arm I first bought.
Glad you got it going, I had condensation in the tank, might be worth pulling the tank out and emptying it.
Using a 123 ignition is an admission of defeat in my mind, much rather stick with original system, works well if setup and maintained correctly.
And no electronics, must be my LandRover mentality
H A
OP
OP