General Mk2 running gear into mk1 shell?

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General Mk2 running gear into mk1 shell?

faster4_tec

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Think the best way to sort my (more rotton than I was expecting) UNOt out is to reshell it.

I've located one in the right colour as my mk2, but its quite pricey and its also not compelty rust free :rolleyes:

I've also located a MINT mk1 n/a uno in WHITE, that I like the look of, and apart from one door bottom a bit blistered its IMMACULATE and also within budget so....


will my mk2 engine/loom/g'box/interior fit the mk1?
 
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Think the best way to sort my (more rotton than I was expecting) UNOt out is to reshell it.

I've located one in the right colour as my mk2, but its quite pricey and its also not compelty rust free :rolleyes:

I've also located a MINT mk1 n/a uno in WHITE, that I like the look of, and apart from one door bottom a bit blistered its IMMACULATE and also within budget so....


will my mk2 engine/loom/g'box/interior fit the mk1?

Engine, gearbox and running gear = yes.

Loom = should do, but you might need to replace the entire wiring loom.

Interior:

Seats = yes.

Door panels = yes at the front ONLY if it is a late mk1 shell with fittings for both mk1 and mk2 hardware. This also includes the electric window motors. Earlier mk1 doors only have the pressings for mk1 hardware.

Dashboard = don't know. I suspect it will but it is fitted slightly differently at the top left and right. On the mk2 it is screwed in at these points (under the speaker grills), on the mk1 it is pressed into clips that are a right pain to release again.

If the mk1 shell is a minter it might be worth it, though as mentioned before you'll end up with a bitsa. If you intend to keep the car then that's no problem! If the mk2 shell has rot then don't bother with that. What you see on the outside is probably festering more where you can't see it. As I'm sure you've already found out with yours :(
 

Kalel

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Go for the re-shell. Cheaper in the long run. As you mentioned that one door was blistering you could just put 2 mk 2 doors on the mk 1 (they fit straight on - so i'm told)

Not sure about the dash...
 
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the whole lot will fit onto the mk1 shell mate, engine, running gear etc. swap the complete looms over as mk1 and mk2 are different. the actual shells are the same, it was just the front panel, wings, bonnet, boot and the insides of the doors that were slightly different. the actual shell IS the same, so therefore everything will fit

Dunc
 

thepottleflump

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The other alternative for the car which might be a better idea based on rotten shell and shagged out engine is carry out some minor repairs to obvious corrosion, clean up the other rust and slap some hammerite Kurust to try and hold it back, bit of primer and paint, put it all back together.

Pull all the crappy stickers off, polish her up, maybe refurb the wheels if needed, nice chunk of underseal in the arches and on the floor pan and then resell. With some nice pictures and a well constructed advert you should get your money back, maybe even more and then you can go find a decent one. You'll know where to check for rust next time.....everywhere :D

Ok so you'll be passing off a less than perfect car but atleast it will be better than when you bought it and hopefully if it looks nice you'll have a buyer at atleast the price you paid.

End of the day reshelling isn't a 5 minute job, depends how much your time is worth and how attached you are to the car. Mk2 Uno Turbos really aren't that rare (there are normally quie a few on ebay at anyone time) so if you really want to own one a better one will come up within a few months and at not a huge premium. This will save you having to spend out time and money reshelling which will devalve the car by the fact that it'll be obvious the car is not in an original shell to anyone but the most naive of buyers; not a problem if you are keeping long term. Do you want to own and drive a nice UT or do you want to spend 100's of hours just getting it into a reasonable state?
 
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faster4_tec

faster4_tec

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thanks for the top advise all :thumb

pottleflump, yeah I weighed that up, even so far as planning what I would do. but TBH th risk is too great that no one will buy it, let alone for an increased price, unless they're a complete muppet (like me for instance LOL).


IF I can get hold of a good shell locally mk1 or mk2 (woul LOVE a mk1 in WHITE and then copper tint the rear window, metro turbo style :yum: ) then I will go th whole hog for a completly mint'd model, and then what i'ev spent it'll be at least worth in the near future. wheras if I only go for a semi good new shell, then again I'm probably wasting my time..

time, well I'm a uni student, I'm only in uni 12hours a week, and TBH there isn't that much work (which I hate, I love having proper work to do, otherwise I just lounge around and get fat). my time is pretty much free, I enjoy working on cars, even when they are hulking great rusty sheds :rolleyes:

at first I thought a reshell would be overkill, but TBH I have the skills to do a reshell and minor rust repair. but what I'm faced with with teh blue one is more than beyond me, rust stopping I can do, but precision welding panels into already soft adn thin russian tin is pretty damn hard by all accounts.


anybody seen/got a minty mk1 in white they don't want to erm, let me have :)
 

thepottleflump

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thanks for the top advise all :thumb

pottleflump, yeah I weighed that up, even so far as planning what I would do. but TBH th risk is too great that no one will buy it, let alone for an increased price, unless they're a complete muppet (like me for instance LOL).


You bought it so someone else will, a bit of tidying up and a well constructed advert will have that car sold no problem! When I sold my UT the bloke hardly even looked at it.

time, well I'm a uni student, I'm only in uni 12hours a week, and TBH there isn't that much work (which I hate, I love having proper work to do, otherwise I just lounge around and get fat). my time is pretty much free, I enjoy working on cars, even when they are hulking great rusty sheds :rolleyes:

12 hours a week, I think I did 8 hours in my second year. 3rd year was when the real work was done :D

Have you got somewhere to work and store the stuff, stripping out a car takes quite alot of space, plus you'll potentially need to store the 2 full shells and all the stripped parts. Maybe the best approach will be to start stripping all the stuff out the car, get it cleaned and prepped e.g. suspension arms in hammerite, new bushes etc before looking for a new shell. Once you've got the car in pieces, send the shell off to the scrap man, you should get a few quid these days, then get the new shell in. Didn't you say the college had a mint shell, get them to hang onto it for a few weeks and buy that/
 

oldskoolmk1unoturbo

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yeah I second to that, tart it up and sell it on, you bought it so some other mug will too, spend some more money and get a decent one you'll be better off in the long run
 
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well, when it comes to reshells i have a pretty good idea on costs etc ;)

but then again, i went for it and went to the extreme.

its taken ages, with loads of probs, but in the end its worth it. i love knowing that my uno is 100% rust free, and i love knowing that i can see the complete floor so theres no hidden areas. so on that basis, im so glad i reshelled and didnt try fixing as once rot is there, u can never really get rid ;)

Dunc
 
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faster4_tec

faster4_tec

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hold on, I/m realising something.

mk2 unoT front bumper, will it fit on teh mk1 front end? or will it look erm odd?

there seems to be quite a few around so I'm gonna bide my time till I find the perfect one! as it'll just mean less hastle when it comes to reshell time!

I was tempted to do it up with some underseal make it look superficially good, but the rear bumper ain't going back on without new metal in place, as theres great big gaping holes!
 

thepottleflump

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You might have to drill extra mounting holes maybe. I think they mostly changed the wings, bumper, grill, lights, probably bonnet but you'll probably find the sheel remained unchanged.
 
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