Very low power, engine goes into crawl mode, I used ODB2 scanner to determine the fault codes, showing misfire on 1 and 4 cylinders. I was very very very careful changing cam belt, I used the proper locking toolkit. I was told I had set the engine on cylinder 180 out... I have taken the cam belt off again and I cant see anything wrong, it all lines up. Is this because I need to get the Multiecuscan to re-learn the camshaft position. (Is it still possible I set up the cam belt '180 degrees out' as I was told by a garage - how is that possible if I used the correct tools?)
Technical Misfire on 1 and 4 cylinder, low power after new cam belt fitting
- Thread starter meatfest
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Technical Misfire on 1 and 4 cylinder, low power after new cam belt fitting
Hi 
Did you keep all the pulleys as original.. or use the tooling to shift the camshaft pulley?
Did you keep all the pulleys as original.. or use the tooling to shift the camshaft pulley?
Do you get the "camshaft assembly position" error?
One thing I've found with some cam locks is that you may end up (wittingly or unwittingly) having to put it in 180 degrees out due to the tool's baseplate being too thick to allow fit in the "correct" position (and noting the slot in the cam-end is eccentric). Being 180 degrees out is not an issue of itself but when in this "incorrect" position there is a fair bit of play in the lock (as it doesn't fit tightly in this position due to the eccentricity). Check for ability to move the cam when locked and if there is any play, set the "mean" position to be in sync with the locked crank (by loosening the cam pulley, adjusting then retightening).
One thing - if you haven't used a crank lock, note the timing setting position is NOT at TDC on cylinder No. 1, it's where all the cylinders are halfway up/down the bores (with the raised dot on the crank pulley at about 9 o'clock).
Nick
One thing I've found with some cam locks is that you may end up (wittingly or unwittingly) having to put it in 180 degrees out due to the tool's baseplate being too thick to allow fit in the "correct" position (and noting the slot in the cam-end is eccentric). Being 180 degrees out is not an issue of itself but when in this "incorrect" position there is a fair bit of play in the lock (as it doesn't fit tightly in this position due to the eccentricity). Check for ability to move the cam when locked and if there is any play, set the "mean" position to be in sync with the locked crank (by loosening the cam pulley, adjusting then retightening).
One thing - if you haven't used a crank lock, note the timing setting position is NOT at TDC on cylinder No. 1, it's where all the cylinders are halfway up/down the bores (with the raised dot on the crank pulley at about 9 o'clock).
Nick
If the timing was out, all cylinders should be affected equally.
Cylinders 1 & 4 are 'sparked' from the same coil, suggesting that this is the area of issue. The coil pack has been moved during the cambelt change. Check the connections carefully, the 12v feed especially, as it affects both cylinders.
The plug leads on these should be considered a service item. they seem quite fragile, as well as short-lived, and often break when removed from the plugs. The break can be internal, so not easily visible. Replace with a good brand, like NGK. Duff plug leads will eventually cause coil failure.
Swap the coils, if the misfire moves, you have an answer.
Cylinders 1 & 4 are 'sparked' from the same coil, suggesting that this is the area of issue. The coil pack has been moved during the cambelt change. Check the connections carefully, the 12v feed especially, as it affects both cylinders.
The plug leads on these should be considered a service item. they seem quite fragile, as well as short-lived, and often break when removed from the plugs. The break can be internal, so not easily visible. Replace with a good brand, like NGK. Duff plug leads will eventually cause coil failure.
Swap the coils, if the misfire moves, you have an answer.
Ah yes - good advice
