Technical Manifold blowing?

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Technical Manifold blowing?

Wayneybabe

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Mar 22, 2013
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Hey all

We just purchased a cheapie V reg 1.2 Bravo. The exhaust sounded like it had been blowing, but the chap we got it from said one of the bolts needs replacing in the exhaust.

Anyway took it to a garage today, who said it was missing 2 bolts from the manifold, that cant be replaced. Therefor would need to replace the manifold itself. Anyone know if this is a big or expensive job? i know it was a cheap motor, but really dont wanna be spending out much money :(
 
Missing bolts from the manifold?
They mean the hole the bolt goes through the manifold to the head has cracked off?
If the bolt has snapped and half of it is in the head, it going to be fun.

Or do they mean the part where the manifold attaches to the rest of the exhaust?
Cat in manifold/cat under the car, dont know about the british "V reg" things?

If youre handy, grab one from a scrap car or weld the old one.
Snapped bolt inside the head is going to be pain to do.

Here is pic of the cat one, in front of the engine with room, so not too hard to change.
https://www.jetex.co.uk/jetex/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=14660
Older one has the cat under the handbrake lever, so the manifold is just piping.
 
hehe, ill get another garage to look at it next week, I'ts my girlfriends first car, she's on a provisional license, so would be nice to get it running good. at the moment its very boy racerish lol
 
ok, it turns out its the studs on the manifold that have come off?

OK,
so it's a 2000 / 2001 16V 1242 cc,
and there are broken . missing studs,
is this on the 4 x ports that bolt the manifold the the cylinder head,

or - as I suspect - on the "downtube" where the 1st section of exhaust bolts on,
if it the exhaust joint then yes it could be drilled / bolted,if the studs are sheared off,

and to be frank - even welded solid - manifold to exhaust if there is major damage to the lower mounting edge of the manifold mounting face,

either way avoid that last garage as they are NOT doing you any favours,
Charlie
 
i have no idea :s but will take it to another garage on Monday and get a second opinion. Thanks for the advice and help folks :)
 
took it to the garage today, apparently 2 bolts have broken off, so they need to remove the manifold (hoping it doesnt break) first, then drill the 2 holes and put in new bolts... have been quoted up to £150...
 
lol Dave, i struggle to put oil in, wouldnt have a clue where to start, plus dont have the tools :*(
 
I've often wondered how you go about drilling out a sheared bolt.

I may learn but it doesn't mean I'd get round to doing it - at least not in the foreseeable future. I live in a 3rd floor flat with street parking only & in an area where I wouldn't dare leave even a screwdriver more than a couple of feet from me for fear of getting it nicked.

So the practicalities of stripping bits off a car are pretty much nil really
 
First, if you can, you try to rotate it with chisel and hammer untill it comes out (useful its on level with the surface).
If that doesnt work out, you try with small hole in it and lazy remover (the thing that looks like fat lefthanded screw, dont know english name for it, cheap ones you can forget as they stand no chance against harder bolts).
Then as that fails you drill it bit bigger (unless the previous tool was soft enough to not make any mark on the stuck part) and use the proper remover (hardened axle with grooves sticking out).
After the hardened rod has snapped and youre removed as much as you can, you give up and drill along the whole thread.
Start rethreading and then notice you dont have a bottoming tap.
After you've made yourself a bottoming tap from normal one with the spare lathe you had lying around and bottomed the hole, you are done.

True story, except the fat lefthanded, didn't bother as I've never had those work.
 
First, if you can, you try to rotate it with chisel and hammer untill it comes out (useful its on level with the surface).
If that doesnt work out, you try with small hole in it and lazy remover (the thing that looks like fat lefthanded screw, dont know english name for it, cheap ones you can forget as they stand no chance against harder bolts).
Then as that fails you drill it bit bigger (unless the previous tool was soft enough to not make any mark on the stuck part) and use the proper remover (hardened axle with grooves sticking out).
After the hardened rod has snapped and youre removed as much as you can, you give up and drill along the whole thread.
Start rethreading and then notice you dont have a bottoming tap.
After you've made yourself a bottoming tap from normal one with the spare lathe you had lying around and bottomed the hole, you are done.

True story, except the fat lefthanded, didn't bother as I've never had those work.


In the UK - the "fat left handers" are called "EASY-OUTS" obviously termed before any trades description legislation..;)

I've NEVER had any luck with these:bang:

so I have bought "american pattern "ones,

which are essentially a square section steel rod with a taper on the business-end, and a forged "tooth" on each face,

you knock it into a hole and then turn it out,
work VERY well as long as the thing is NOT rusted solid - always pre-soak with "plus-gas" or similar penetrating fluid.

£ 150 does seem a LOT of money for a couple of snapped bolts..,

Charlie
 
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