Technical Lambda sensor wiring colors

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Technical Lambda sensor wiring colors

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Hi I have got a Punto mk2 1.2 16v elx speedgear year 2000 cvt automatic car with one lambda sensor (upper). The car wire colors are

1-Yellow
2-Yellow Green
3-White
4-Brown White

Sensor Genuine Bosch 0 258 006 206

Can anybody help me to wire the 4 wires of Bosch sensor Black, Gray, White,White to the car please?.
 
Hi I have got a Punto mk2 1.2 16v elx speedgear year 2000 cvt automatic car with one lambda sensor (upper). The car wire colors are

1-Yellow
2-Yellow Green
3-White
4-Brown White

Sensor Genuine Bosch 0 258 006 206

Can anybody help me to wire the 4 wires of Bosch sensor Black, Gray, White,White to the car please?.

This video gives a wiring table at 50 seconds.



I think you can therefore be very confidant wiring the sensor as follows.

Yellow to black. Signal wire.
yellow green (European colour code for Earth) to grey. Signal wire Earth.
The white and brown white are the 12V heater cables. Either car wire with white can go to either white wire.
 
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Wiring is correct voltage not very rapidly fluctuating it is mostly 530mv and still open loop. I did ecu reset by disconnecting battery and car was not driven after ecu reset. May i know what is the issue? Will it be closed loop after running fes miles?
 
Can i ground the gray wire to the chassis. Doing that goes closed loop. What is the issue
Open loop - engine ecu is ignoring readings till correct temperature reached

Closed loop - engines warmed up and is now monitoring the sensor to try and reach lambda1 (stiochometric ration - a.k.a. the perfect burn)

If fault codes still stored it may never go to closed loop

Ziggy
 
Wiring is correct voltage not very rapidly fluctuating it is mostly 530mv and still open loop. I did ecu reset by disconnecting battery and car was not driven after ecu reset. May i know what is the issue? Will it be closed loop after running fes miles?


I am supposing the sensor has been damaged or is too old. From youtube you can take these sensors out and heat them with a blow torch to see if the sensor still works. You can buy a ring spanner with a slot to remove the sensors from the manifold pipe.


But re reading the thread is seems you fitted a new sensor recently..............................
 
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Its new bosch genuine validated one bought from ebay. After adding seperate ground to engine for grey wire it goes closed loop but stay mostly above 500mv and below 750mv. When i disconnect the seperate ground it goes open loop and reading is 437mv or 456mv. I cannot understand what is the issue. If i clear the p0130 it comes again after driving.
 
No mate. How to check it?. There are two connectors on the top of the engine and i can see seperate black wire is connected to the ecu housing from one connector but not from other. Please advise.


That separate black wire connector will be the ECU earth. With the engine running you should have a very low voltage between the metal body of the ECU and the negative pole of the battery because of that Earth.
 
Yes i checked that and very low voltage is there. Lambda wiring also correct but when i checked the voltage when ignition on and not engine running between the car connector wire 4 (brown and white) and wire 2 ( yellow and green) it does not show 12v.But when i checked the same between wire 4 and chassis it shows 12v.
 
Open loop - engine ecu is ignoring readings till correct temperature reached

Closed loop - engines warmed up and is now monitoring the sensor to try and reach lambda1 (stiochometric ration - a.k.a. the perfect burn)

If fault codes still stored it may never go to closed loop

Ziggy
Yes i am getting p0130 and that mean it never goes closed loop what should I do?
 
Hello when i attach seperate ground wire from engine block to yellow green wire lambda sensor goes closed loop and function properly so lambda sensor is working and not faulty am i correct?. But when i disconnect the seperate ground wire lambda goes open loop.
 
Is there a relationship between coolant temperature and open/closed loop status?
Yes
Open loop occours when engine is cold
The ecu ignores lambda readings and runs a base program to get engine warmed up, the information is there but it goes nowhere so the loops open

When on wide open throttle - again it ignore this sensor as well, alot of cars do as your wanting full power not low emisions....


Closed loop is when criteria is met about the engine
When warmed up the ecu wants to see the fueling
If the lambda say its too rich - ecu cuts injection time and recieves the new signal from sensor
Typically it now says lean condition and tue injection time opens up
This is going on soo many times its called closed loop


Earthing the sensor straight out will often just confuse the sensors readings as i believe the ecu is actually the negative switch on it


Most lambdas have 4 wires
Usually 2 white or 2 grey are the heater element - not polarity sensitive as its just a coil of wire

Then there are 2 more wires for the oxygen reading bit of the sensor - colours differ so a diagram may be needed to identify the sensor circuit
This is a polarity sensitive circuit as there is often a full time power and ecu controlled negative switching

Whats the fault code you getting?
What makes you say lambda at fault?

Ziggy
 
After i removed the engine ecu connectors and checked as per autodata i feel the lambda sensor is working. Just after reconnecting engine started with hesitation like unstable RPM and observed closed loop with MES but after minute or two the engine RPM became stable and lambda went open loop.
 
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