Technical Knock sensor

[Belsell]

Hi. I got the code showing P1325 - knock sensor. Had a new sensor fitted at the garage today but code still showing. Mechanic suggested it could be broken wire or ECU problem.
It feels lumpy to drive, especially when lifting off the accelerator.
Anyone had anything similar or know what needs to be done next. Thank you

 

[Mike1alike]

Was the code deleted? And reapered after?

 

[Belsell]

Was the code deleted? And reapered after?

Hi. Yes it was. A mechanic confirmed the code was still showing

 

[ZaphodB]

It feels lumpy to drive, especially when lifting off the accelerator.

Sounds like it's an ignition timing problem and the sensor is actually simply detecting a knock (pre-detonation)

Pull your spark plugs and examine first , post pics on here if possible, keep them in order as you took them out so you can ID which cylinder might have the problem

 

[Mike1alike]

Can you (or ask the mechanic to) take a photo with the error and details of it, to know a little bit more about what's happening.
They say The P1325 code indicates an ignition timing malfunction, often linked to the crankshaft position sensor or ignition module. So there might be a problem on the engine and knocking sensor picks it up (abnormal knocks) and throws the code. Replacing the sensor won't fix it. You need to find what's causing it and fix that.

 

[Mike1alike]

It feels lumpy to drive, especially when lifting off the accelerator.

That sounds like it might be the Idle Air Control Valve malfunction or actually Throttle Body malfunction. What kind of TB do you have, fly by wire or cable operated?

 

[Belsell]

Can you (or ask the mechanic to) take a photo with the error and details of it, to know a little bit more about what's happening.
They say The P1325 code indicates an ignition timing malfunction, often linked to the crankshaft position sensor or ignition module. So there might be a problem on the engine and knocking sensor picks it up (abnormal knocks) and throws the code. Replacing the sensor won't fix it. You need to find what's causing it and fix that.

 

[Mike1alike]

That looks like a wiring problem, if the new sensor is good. The circuit needs to be tested, including the ground. Contact might be oxidized, a good clean, contact spray might do them good. Check the wires continuity, maybe the (+) one got somehow on a heated engine part and the insulation melted, now it shortcuts.
How did this happen, do you remember something specific before having this problem and reading this error?

 

[Belsell]

That looks like a wiring problem, if the new sensor is good. The circuit needs to be tested, including the ground. Contact might be oxidized, a good clean, contact spray might do them good. Check the wires continuity, maybe the (+) one got somehow on a heated engine part and the insulation melted, now it shortcuts.
How did this happen, do you remember something specific before having this problem and reading this error?

Okay will do thank you. And I’ve not long owned the car, happened a couple weeks after buying it.
The only thing i remember of note was driving over a gravel carpark and it suddenly sounding rattley and feeling off... The next day the light came on. But im really unsure if that was related.

 

[GrandePunto PL]

Another pathetic thread, where mysterious "mechanic" needs help from the internet forum?
Clown world...
Tell your "mechanic" to install original sensor, torque it to spec and check the wiring (continuity) to the ECU.

 

[Belsell]

Another pathetic thread, where mysterious "mechanic" needs help from the internet forum?
Clown world...
Tell your "mechanic" to install original sensor, torque it to spec and check the wiring (continuity) to the ECU

Mysterious “mechanic” doesn’t need help from an internet forum, I do. I had to put the car in the garage for the knock sensor to be fitted (as you may know, this requires a ramp). This is all I wanted the garage to do, and I would like to figure out the next steps myself. Hence why I am asking on here…
Thank you for your advice however, maybe you should keep your negative energy to yourself.

 

[Belsell]

Sounds like it's an ignition timing problem and the sensor is actually simply detecting a knock (pre-detonation)

Pull your spark plugs and examine first , post pics on here if possible, keep them in order as you took them out so you can ID which cylinder might have the problem

Thank you, will have a look and post pictures when I can.

 

[Mike1alike]

Thank you for your advice however, maybe you should keep your negative energy to yourself.

I think that would be very hard to him, to keep his negative energy to himself. He's spewing that here on every thread he can, every day.

Thank you, will have a look and post pictures when I can.

I don't think that check applies here, you won't find anything to help you there. That would be useful if the knock sensor error were about high or low voltage, out of the range knocking values. But your error, as shown in your picture is about open circuit or short to ground. That's what you gotta sort out.

 

[koalar]

Thank you, will have a look and post pictures when I can.

I thought it was a 1.3 diesel, first post

Or am I wrong


Does a multijet even have a knock sensor ?

 

[koalar]

It feels lumpy to drive, especially when lifting off the accelerator.

Knock sensor does nothing when coasting

It only adjusts thing while accelerating and or under load

I suspect we are missing a vital piece of the puzzle and this thread will go round in circles

For example 1.2 knock sensor (assuming a typo) can be changed from underneath or above, there's no need to pay a garage to put it on a ramp

 

[koalar]

Assuming it's not the multijet

P1325-11 KNOCK SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT LOW

P1325-12 KNOCK SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT HIGH

P1325-49 KNOCK SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE - TOO MANY TRANSITIONS

P1325-64 KNOCK SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE - TOO FEW TRANSITIONS

We are missing the last part of the code, typical with a generic code reader

P1325 does not mean a wiring fault in all cases

Dirt, oil between the block and sensor
Under torqued
Over torqued
Bad quality third party sensor
Fail on fit OEM sensor
Corroded connector sensor pins
Sensor connector not pushed on correctly
Broken wire
Corroded ECU pins
Faulty ECU connector
Faulty ECU
Mechanical knocking internally in the engine
Code not cleared correctly

Probably something I have missed

Which is why it's best to diagnose a fault as much as possible before changing anything

A garage should be able to read the live data from the sensor directly, or indirectly via the spark advance,.and see the affect of ringing the block with an iron bar, (ignition retard) or watch the signal directly on the oscilloscope

Do you have your own scan tool
Do you have a multimeter