General Knock Knock

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General Knock Knock

Fiatcromahull

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Feb 13, 2011
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i am fully aware of all the other posts on similar cases but i what others have suggested hasnt given me an answer
ive got a knocking type noise when i go over bumpy road surfaces or rough roads. it appears to be coming from nearside rear wheel. car been in garage but the guy said hes checked springs, shockers arms, bushes etc to no avail.
is there anything else anyone can suggest. its a kind of metal on metal knocking. smooth roads and even cornering sharply is ok but anu undulations on roads and the knock is there. can be quite loud too. theres no play on the wheel and just had new shoes fitted to rear (noise was there before) so pads can be ruled out too (ive read some people suggest the pads may be rattling)
 
Usually drop links, connecting the anti roll bar ends to the suspension. I would have thought this would have shown up.
 
I have a similar effect on my Croma, I was sure something had broken or worn out so I had the car on a ramp and checked everything, the car then went through the MOT with no problem in this area. I am putting it down to extra compliance in some of the bushes as they have got older, having checked it as I said I am not too worried but will look at changing the bushes at sometime in the future. Tyre wear is not unusual either so I will live with it. Bob
 
I get occasional funny noises in mine. I'm happy to "let it develop" as they say.

It could be a marble in the ashtray - sounds reverberate so much in cars that you are often fooled into "knowing" where they are.

I was certain my front brake was squealing. It was the back one in the end, after paying a garage to strip it down and reassemble. I eventually found it by driving without touching the brakes, then checked which disc was hot.
 
Probably not your particular issue in your case but I would add that some tyres do actually transmit/cause new and not heard before sounds. I had this when I put my Pirelli P7 tyres on.

A lot of suspension noise is related to transmission (no not gearbox) speed/rate. Sometimes a little compliance/resistance change in a tyre, spring or shock absorber can really accentuate and energise those parts of your car that you never thought existed.

In your case I would suspect a 'drop-link'. If you can't check or prove any movement then you could remove the n/s/ and o/s droplinks and see if the problem goes away.

Removing the drop links is not a safety issue. You just lose the anti-rolebar. If the cars still knocks then you know it is not a drop link issue.
 
is it a diy job or garage? if it is a diy i will look for a guide
thanks for advice
 
Drop links are fairly easy to remove HOWEVER before going there I would encourage you to have a real good look at your front suspension. This is quite easy to do and if/when you have a knowledge of the setup then you will be in a far better position to understand and diagnose issues yourself.

For the time being forget your specific issue.

Do the following.

1) crack / losen the wheel nuts - N/S or O/S - suggest the side you think is the noisiest
2) jack car up and remove wheel
3) carefully examine exactly what you see regarding the front suspension setup.

You will see a vertical tube (the damper) with a coild spring going upwards from the wheel hub into the top inside of the wing. This damper & coil assembly is generally called a "strut".

At the bottom of the strut you will see that it is attached viat two bolts onto the wheel hub assembly.

The bottom of the hub assembly is atttached to a wishbone (track control arm) via a single swivel/ball joint.

The wisbone/track control arm, which in total takes the shape of a 'Y' is attached to the chassis at two points (the tips of the Y).

Attached to the hub via an integral arm you will find on either side a 'rod' (the steering rod) that connectos to the steering rack.

Having got/recognised all of these the you have the basic minium component requirements of the front suspension setup of a typical car.

The piece that is missing in the above is the 'anti-roll' bar. This is a bar that attaches to either the yoke, hub or strut and connects the N/S and O/S suspension/hubs together.

This is always/mostly linked or connected to the yoke/hub/strut by a rod or link bar, the drop link.

On the Croma the drop link is attached to the strut/damper just below the spring coil plate and drops down to the anti-roll bar, hence its name drop-link.

4) now that you can see how the front suspension hangs together you can do some simple tests yourself to try and identify any loose or worn components. With the hub/suspension hanging freely you can grab it and manipulate it by hand looking and feeling for any floppy parts. It is unlikely you will initial find anything but if you place some bricks under the hub to make a platform about 3 to 4 inches below the free hanging hub then you can place a wooden lever between the brick platform and the hub lower arm and then start levering up and down the whole hub/strut assembly.

In additon to looking for play in joints it is far more important to feel for play. You do this by gently placing the fingures of one hand ACROSS the ball joint/flexible joint whilst levering with the other hand. Any excess play should be easily spotted.

5) Repeat 4) for both sides.

This is difficult to explain but once you get the wheel off and study what is there and think about how it all hangs together then I'm sure you will quickly understand how it all works and where all the up/down and twist/steering movement joint points are and thus where possible play in connecting components could be producing noise if worn.
 
i'll tell you what though...the above is a great help for me and others i guess. i am gonna have a look tomorrow at the front and do what you suggested to see if there are any issues up front

thank you
 
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