General Just got myself a Uno :)

[lewey]

It is a resistor as you say. It is for the dim-dip headlights that were popular for a period. The resistor allows a few volts through to illuminate the dipped-beam headlights a little when the side lights are switched on. It was a legal requirement for one year in 1987-88!

 

[nunesaf]

It is a resistor as you say. It is for the dim-dip headlights that were popular for a period. The resistor allows a few volts through to illuminate the dipped-beam headlights a little when the side lights are switched on. It was a legal requirement for one year in 1987-88!

I see... that explains why I can still see the horizon line of the headlights with the side lights on!

This box seems to be dangling on the engine bay. It is not attached to any part of the body so I was wondering where to attach it to.

Thanks for the clarification

 

[Louie Bee]

seems like good news but remember that when there is no more oil left in the box, no more will leak out

Don't forget to replace the oil you've lost.. then make sure it don't all leak out again.

 

[nunesaf]

Hi

I've already rang the dealer and will pick up the gearbox oil on Saturday morning. In the afternoon will be flushing the cooling system, replacing the o-ring in the water distributor pipe and replace the thermostat. I'll also replace the spark plugs and the air filter. That's my plan for Saturday.

I've got other small things to do but they are minor. Sometime in November will be replacing the cambelt. Should I also replace the waterpump you think?

 

[Louie Bee]

being an 8v fire engine, it's safe, so if the cam belt fails pistons and valves won't meet. so I'd not bother with the waterpump as if it seizes and takes the cam belt out, it's not engine rebuild time.

But if you are doing the coolant anyway, it maybe worth it to save being stranded, if it goes

don't forget the tensioner when you do the belt

 

[beat]

Very nice find...
Looking good, it has landed in the right hands..

 

[nunesaf]

Thanks Beat

Yesterday I took the car to the jetwash, to prepare it for winter, and I am pleased with the amount of rust from a car from 1993.

I guess my winter preparation won't be hard. No rust at all in the seals.

 

[nunesaf]

Hi guys

Just to give you an update on my Uno:
[BEGIN RANT]
I got up early Saturday in the morning to go to the dealer. I had ordered a bleed nipple and the o-ring for the water pipe distributor. When I rang them I gave the ePer reference number... just keep this in mind. I've also asked them if they had the Tutela ZC90. They replied: we have plenty in stock so you can get it when picking up the other parts

When I got there, it was waiting for me a dust cap (instead of the bleed nipple) and an empty bag (no o-ring inside). I tried to be polite and said: "I am sorry my fault but there has been a misunderstanding as I would like the bleed nipple, not the dust cap. I can keep anyway though". The guy replied: "next time sir please give us the VIN number.". Well, I gave them the ePer numbers, how could this go wrong?!

Regarding the gearbox oil, they only had Tutela ZC75 and I've asked what was the difference. They guy goes: it's only thinner... So I decided to take it. When walking to my motorbike (yes I'm not using my Uno) I was reading the label and it said synthetic and GL-5. So I've decided to go back and return it straight way. The guy told me: ring us before noon with your VIN number and we will let you know which oil you need. And so I did... and they don't stock it and don't take orders as it would take 2 months...

Well, you get the picture... What a time wasters!
[END RANT]

I had this weekend to do this job, the next opportunity will be in November. Anyhow, I also found out that the water leak is not from that pipe. The water comes through the flywheel. A gearbox removal is in order and the core-plug will have to be replaced. I'm a bit nervous as I never did this before .

So why am I post this here? I need some sympathy and some guidance:
- are the gear linkage difficult to remove and what's the process (snap -on?)?
- do I have to remove the flywheel and are the bolts re-usable or are the stretch bolts?
- any trick I should be aware of?


On the upside I've changed the spark plugs and the air filter. Great improvement, the car now idle is regular and it's ok. I also had the speed cable leaking again as it got untight. I had to apply a bit of silicone though to make it seal perfectly.

Thanks

 

[alexGS]

Easy job but lengthy!
Oil should indeed not be GL5, so not ZC75 synth. That's for newer gearboxes. You're going to have to drain the oil as part of the gearbox removal. Perhaps see what Halfords recommend? Do they have Castrol VMX - that works well.

Gear linkages: two rods under car pry off.
Flywheel bolts can be re-used no problem.
You might want to replace the clutch depending on how worn the fingers are on the cover. This seems to be age-related rather than mileage-related.

Core plug is a special type (dealer again... groan). It looks like a paint tin lid, about 60 mm diameter.
You will probably need to replace the other core plugs as well all in due course I guess. At least they are not expensive.

It helps to have two trolley jacks plus a few blocks of wood for the gearbox removal/refitting if you are working on your own.

There is a thin steel plate that needs to come off the bell housing underneath, by the engine sump. The third 10mm bolt for this is up by the RH driveshaft and difficult to reach, but it is there.

Don't forget to remove the starter motor I think one of the bolts goes in from the gearbox side (and two from the starter motor side).

Have fun!
-Alex

 

[alexGS]

Good job cleaning - Looks ready for a nice coating of Waxoyl... Not something I've ever used, but as an oily film it should help to seal out the salty spray. We should find out what other long-term Uno drivers have used?

-Alex

 

[nunesaf]

Easy job but lengthy!
Oil should indeed not be GL5, so not ZC75 synth. That's for newer gearboxes. You're going to have to drain the oil as part of the gearbox removal. Perhaps see what Halfords recommend? Do they have Castrol VMX - that works well.

Gear linkages: two rods under car pry off.
Flywheel bolts can be re-used no problem.
You might want to replace the clutch depending on how worn the fingers are on the cover. This seems to be age-related rather than mileage-related.

Core plug is a special type (dealer again... groan). It looks like a paint tin lid, about 60 mm diameter.
You will probably need to replace the other core plugs as well all in due course I guess. At least they are not expensive.

It helps to have two trolley jacks plus a few blocks of wood for the gearbox removal/refitting if you are working on your own.

There is a thin steel plate that needs to come off the bell housing underneath, by the engine sump. The third 10mm bolt for this is up by the RH driveshaft and difficult to reach, but it is there.

Don't forget to remove the starter motor I think one of the bolts goes in from the gearbox side (and two from the starter motor side).

Have fun!
-Alex

Hi Alex

Thanks for the guidance, very much appreciated. I have already the core-plug and it is a 50mm one. I hope that's right, that's what in said in ePer . (Un)fortunately my car does come with that steel plate (you can see the flywheel straight away!

Effectively I intend doing the job on my own as I have nobody to help me. Nor garage... The challenges are there but it's worth it! I've got a hydraulic jack but I'll borrow a trolley jack from a neighbour of mine

Thanks and watch this space in the next coming weeks

 

[Louie Bee]

I did my first clutch job alone on my Uno

How are you planing to remove the drive shafts?

If it's hub nuts off you'll need a breaker bar to remove them and torque wrench idealey to replace them @ 294Nm you'll need a big un! I got a three quater inch drive onr to do the brava clutch - which I never got round to doing

I'd get a porter manual for the uno. hters one on ebay, but who knows what its doing in washington .

 

[Louie Bee]

Oh it's taking things a bit far but i stripped off my underseal from my MK1 to check for rust

Have not got round to recoating it, and am not sure what to use yet.

 

[lewey]

I wouldn't remove hub nuts to remove a gearbox. Just remove the two bolts holding the wishbone to the subframe on the nearside of the car and the driveshaft can be pulled from the box. The other will fall out when you take the gearbox off. Easy.

 

[alexGS]

Off-topic but Louie, I'd suggest Tetrosol over-paintable stone chip coating. It comes in a canister that you screw a special (but cheap) gun onto. The gun pressurises the canister and makes a lovely thick textured splattery mess. Then when dry (a day or two), you overpaint with 2K topcoat. Looks absolutely original that way but 'fresh' so will last a long time.

-Alex

 

[nunesaf]

Thanks guys for all your input

My plan is to first remove the two bolts that secure the struct to the hub and split the tie rod ball joint. With this I'll check if I have enough clearance to dislodge the shaft from the gearbox. Mental note / question in the back of my mind - with the shaft in place into the hub, I don't know if it will make my life too difficult to move the gearbox around.

As a back-up plan, I've got a breaker bar and I've managed to move the hub nut already. I am trying to avoid removing the nut as I was told that bearings dislike being re-tightened (don't ask me why, I just don't know).

Also thanks for the tips on the underseal, that might be useful in the future when my restoration project gets to that point. I have a few spots of rust to treat in the rear wheel arches. By the way, how does the plastic trim come off? Is it just a matter of splitting the plastic rivets (I assume the rivets removal is a destructive process)?

 

[lewey]

I think you should avoid splitting the ball joint unless you plan to replace it anyway. Same as you rightly say to avoid undoing the hub nut. Both are not worth the risk and bother. Bolts are easy to undo and don't carry risk. Undo the strut bolts and/or the wishbone bolts like I said and the whole hub can be pulled right out of the way.

 

[nunesaf]

Hi everybody

Sorry for keep nagging you but I'm afraid I need just a bit of help. This question should be easy for those that have done the job already. Right, so I am in the process of removing the gearbox to replace the core plug but I couldn't figure out how to open the gearlink :bang:. It has a sort of clip that turns around. What's the trick to get it out?

Thanks

 

[alexGS]

Perhaps a screwdriver between the folded-over bit and the shaft it's pushed through?
maybe a good-quality LED torch so you can inspect it more closely? I'm cheeky, I know

Keep trying!
-Alex

 

[nunesaf]

Hi Alex

Thanks for the tip . How did you guess I was doing the work at night in a barely illuminated car park (candles would be better than those lamp stands)?

Anyhow, at least I've got now a clear way to pursue. It's I didn't want to break anything and yesterday I found myself muscleing too much and the rods where emitting a few strange noises (no, they were not crying ).

Looking forward for tonight to get my Uno back on the road.

Thanks again Alex, very much appreciate it!