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JohnDragonMan's Dispatch/Scudo Micro Camper Conversion

Introduction

Hey everyone.

Well a year or so ago my brother and i had the idea to get a van to convert into a camper. so we bought an Iveco Daily mk4 (2008). this was a refrigeration van. when we took apart the back of the van it had rather nice 50mm XPS insulation that we ended up recycling with much spare left over.
cut to a few months back, we still have the Daily which is still in the conversion stage but im enjoying it that much i want my own van. so i start looking at small vans. i originally was looking for a Doblo XL but i wanted something a little older, without advanced ECUs and emission controls. i went looking on Gumtree and saw this van for sale very cheap. i decided to go and have a look.
he told me it was being sold with faults. somehow over night it was draining its battery, and it over time started lacking in power. the chap had it in to a garage and they told him that it needs a complete new ECU to fix it. he was retiring from his self employed gardening business so the van was not needed as much as it used to be. fearing the cost of a replacement ECU and other faults that needed fixing he decided to sell it.
he also told me that he had the van a good 10 years or so and he religiously serviced it each year even if it did not clock up the required service mileage. on checking the dip stick i have never seen an engine so clean internally. not one bit of tarnish and the oil still a nice pleasant honey colour. little to no blow by and no noticeable oil leaks. Very Impressive.
on that i bought it.
i now was the registered keeper of a 2005 Dispatch "Enterprise 900" HDI with 99k miles on the clock for £325 with 12 months MOT.



my plans:

first off i wanted to install 2 extra seats to the van to make it a 5 seater. (more on that later!)

now i have some interesting wild Insane plans for this van. i love electronics. i cant help myself. so heres a little list of what i plan:

i plan to cram in a 48v leisure system to this van. the main component will be a heavily modified hacked and slashed 48v backup UPS (an APC SRT3000RMXLI)which will pretty much do everything for me. already having a mains charger built in, it also has a built in inverter at 2.7kw and being a UPS, if the electric hookup power fails, it will instantly switch over to battery power and keep all my 240v stuff working.
i will be using a "wind turbine" controller that i will use to tap directly into the alternators 3 phases to charge the 48v battery bank which i plan to store under the van in the gap the spare wheel usually hangs. ill be using gell cell / SLA, but if i can get my hands on some tasty AGM batteries i will use those.

the solar photovoltaic array i plan to have is also going to be pretty insane:
i plan to have a lot of solar power. i will be using a full sized roof rack on this van (that i may extend a little over the windscreen), and on that i plan to have a large roof box for storage (maybe 2) and maybe the spare wheel (though i may mount that to one of the rear doors). i plan on covering the roofbox(es) with semi-flexible solar panels. ive calculated that i should easy get 5x 18v 30 watt panels per roof box. each roof boxes solar panels will be linked in series so should get a nice 90 volts. if i do get another roof box i will add it in parallel to give my twice the amps output. i will then feed it into a Victron solar charger.

if that was not enough!
i will also have large pull out solar panels. these will be dual use. not only will they be able to be pulled out from under the roof rack for extra power, but they will also double up as a rain cover above the doors. i even have the plan on making them "push button deploy and retractable" using DC actuators. this however is something to do at my leisure as its more for "showing off"
im unsure of the total amount of watts all the panels combined will give but when the van is parked up at home it will be fed into our home self built solar array and power the house.

it does not end here however.
the van will also have a pressurised water system using a pump and bladder tank, both hot and cold running water. i will be using an old office drink water dispenser for the heating system. which has 2 modes, a 300w "instant heat" mode and a 30w "keep hot" mode where it stores water at a constant 60.c to 90.c (adjustable)

and lastly. yes there's more
i also plan to build my own refrigeration system in the van to run a fridge freezer. it will purely be a 48v system. the compressor and condenser (radiator on the back of a fridge) will be under the van (for noise and the coldest place giving the maximum efficiency) also saving internal space. ill be using a pre-built fridge i think. though not very well insulated (to my standards anyway) it will just make things easy.
i also plan on having a microwave grill too. that will be ran from the UPS inverter. should just about manage.

hacked and slashed ;)





now that's out the way, here is what i have done so far:
the evening i got it home i was sat in the van for a while reading through the booklets and various paperwork when i started hearing a buzzing/clicking sound. i traced the noise back to the rear left of the van, behind the lights. turns out the tow bar had an auto voltage detector for charging a caravans battery. this was looking pretty rough and quite melted to look at. i left it in place but pulled out the fuse. over the next 2 months i can report that the battery has never gone flat yet i have never really driven or even started the van up! will be an easy fix!

my first priority when i got the van home was to change the cam belt. 99k miles and a 15 year old cam belt is not odds that i like to play with. turns out its a really easy job on these vans. i locked the cam but never bothered locking the crank as i just used the visual timing mark to line it up. i replaced the water pump, tensioner and idler.i used a Gates timing belt kit. (we all know that they are the best!)







i also noticed that the throttle cable was very slack so "pegged" that back up a few notches. :) sadly this did not fix the engine power issue.
i also noticed that it had replacement discs and pads too! :D



now that was done i set about taking all of the original plywood out of the back. all in fantastic condition, all i planned to reuse again.
after cleaning the whole of the inside of the van with meths, my next priority was to install the extra 2 seats to the back. i wanted these seats totally removable as i still wanted to use it as a "lite van". my issue was that i wanted to have seats that could fold flat so i could lay a bed over the top of them. i also wanted them to have built in seat belts. all of which are quite rare things. i went into massive research looking for vehicles that have fold flat removable seats with built in seat belts. i eventually found out that Ford Transit Tourneo custom vans made after 2010 had just them! after contacting a few people i managed to buy two seats.
the seats fit perfectly in the original van floors "corrugation".
i welded in rather thick plate under the floor onto the chassis of the van so i had some very substantial seat mounting points. this did involve taking the fuel tank off in which i took advantage of the situation and repaired the very rusted fuel tank brace support, undersealed and rust proofed all chassis box sections using Dynax S50.
i bolted the seat runners in and installed the seats to test them before building the floor and its insulation.





i then set to insulating the back of the van. remember that 50mm XPS insulation i had left over? we that is what i used! this got used on the roof and the sides of the van. it fits perfectly depth wise.
i used expanding insulation foam (not the normal builders expanding foam) to hold the XPS in place. it also filled any missed cavities in the insulation due to my bad cutting skills.



for the floor i used 25mm square wooden batons and 25mm Celotex. then laid the original plywood flooring over the top of it all after cleaning and cutting out the holes for the now fitted rear seat mounting points.



i also insulated inside the steel cavities using polyester "teddy bear" stuffing as it does not hold moisture and remains breathable.



After all that was done i "sealed" everything in with thin plastic sheeting as a vapour barrier using aluminium tape to cover all of the holes into the cavities. (i also dynaxed some of the cavities, just for rust precaution)
i then covered all of the steelwork with 6mm closed cell foil lined foam. to give it a "warm/soft" touch then covered it all with Auto Carpet. no cold hard steelwork to touch in the middle of the night!





i did the same with the original plywood side panels after cleaning them and cutting them down to size to lay on top of the insulation vapour barrier.
i went for a dark grey auto carpet for all metal covering and a cream auto carpet to cover the plywood side panels. i will be using black auto carpet around the bottom of the "walls" of the living space. about 20cm from the floor up. i will disguise the colour change line using a thin strip of "ornate" aluminium checker plate.

i started work on a bulkhead with a plan to make a sizeable over head cupboard. before that i took out the old headlining, sound proofed and insulated the aerial with dense sound deadening sheeting and 10mm closed cell foam.







while i was under the van i had a poke around at the rust and made quite a "holy mess"... holy sh!t. well i can weld it all up but having done that much of it i am at the point where i just do not want to do that kind of thing anymore. i ordered new sills and planned to take it to a body shop to repair as they would make a much neat job of it than i would.





i planned to leave the roof with some plywood over it and then stain it a darker colour. however i am unsure with this idea and may change it.
from the photos you will notice that the van has a spinning roof vent. i have great plans for this. swapping out the vent for a low profile one so i can still fit my roof rack on. i plan to use it as an air intake system. now i suffer greatly with hay fever. so i will be building into the roof a HEPA air filtration system and aircraft style air vents. i am the kind of person that likes to sleep with the noise and feel of a fan blowing on me (i am really very highly strange). this in the summer months will be quite nice.
i have recently fitted a 2kw diesel air heater under the passenger seat. having cut out the "storage basket" to make way for it. i had to hammer flat some of the vans floor corrugation so it fit in nice and level. i did this using a trolley jack and a brick so i could hammer flat without concaving it. it fits in the gap really well but is close to fuel and brake lines under the van. i plan to make a heat shield for them. can never be too cautious. the heat output should blow nicely down the central walkway. between the seats and the kitchen units.












ok so as of today i have had the van for about 2 months and finally insured and taxed it. its insured as a camper in the conversion stage but still has SDPC specs so i can drive it to work :D
so far i have not looked into fixing the engine power issue. i took it out for my first drive in it and i was a little worried about it being as slow as it was. thankfully i know a thing or two about modernish diesel engines so i started to unplug sensors. well first sensor to unplug was the Mass Air Flow sensor (just behind the air filter box). low and behold it was like i hit LAUNCH on Saturn 5 rocket. that was easy. too easy. well i have ordered a replacement MAF sensor and a replacement inter cooler. i will fit them when they get here.

That is as far as i have got! on Friday i will be taking it into the body shop for the welding work to be done. the body shop specialises in repairing E7 Eurotaxis so no stranger to these vans. they also have many scrap taxis around the back. i may even buy all the bits to retrofit air conditioning to my van from them! just for the filtered air mainly!

thanks for looking! i will be sure to add more updates as it progresses.

just to note, i am keeping Vlogs on this hosted on Youtube.
see the playlist here:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLq_C4DcbSFgILFitaYNBnZSO2ISNI3vhn

-JohnDragonMan
The one thing we wish we have on the van is AC. Insulating the roof with good foil materials helps considerably though not enough in weeks like this.

Have given this a lot of thought, the nuclear option of course getting a different van!

Furlough has reduced long term spending appetite while also offering more time to tinker. Hopefully have cleared the gremlins from this one and at 160,000 or so now want to get 200,000...which will take a while.. So have fitted a 2000W AC true sin inverter under the passenger seat, wired direct to the battery under the floor nearby. It runs the 800W microwave ok with the engine running! It is satisfying how the engine control unit raised the revs from tick over to sustain exactly 12V while the microwave was running.

Have just ordered the lowest power true compressor portable AC unit I could find, 7000 BTU at 750W electric consumption, once here will plumb the hot air pipe out of the van somehow and we will have AC for on the move and when parked on site supply :). Will have to monitor battery health closely though pretty sure daytime cruising with it on will be OK, and will consider top up charging if on a site hook up.

So some chunk of spend but transferrable assets which can be used in the home too.
 
It is satisfying how the engine control unit raised the revs from tick over to sustain exactly 12V

if thats the 2.3L or 3.0L they have some pretty nice alternators on them. we have the iveco daily with the 2.3 (basically a ducato, but with a dedicated chassis) that we just upgraded the alternator on. we also have a 2nd alternator on it that gives out 28v for the leisure battery system.

i still have to work out how i am going to make 48v from my single alternator. ill find a way!

so on the dispatch. well things have happened.





the gearbox somehow fell out. ... ... actually it took quite some getting out. one of the more harder vehicles to remove a gearbox on sadly.

after moving the ABS pump and a few strengthening bars it did come out.

anyhoo the flywheel ended up being a solid flywheel so i had to return my clutch kit and get a different one.
also the crank shaft seal was weeping so i replaced that too.

well used...



still life in it, but the spring plate had gotten very hot and warped the spring tips.



while i was waiting for the parts to come through the post i decided to do some cleaning up. de-rusting and painting.

after a jet wash i was left with this.. nice



and when i removed the strut i found this.. nasty!



thankfully not eaten through!



and if you look here, this is on the inside of the engine bay on the back of the suspension strut location.




just reclaiming sheared off bolts in the best way ever.. Fire!



seen these things in the scrap yard with more left on them.. geez..



just uploading a video now.. all 4K stuff so rendering and uploading takes a while!
 
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Hi, you need the 48v for the fridge compressor right? So you have one already to use? What kind, that's interesting. How many amps? 12 to 48 step up converters exist, of course, I will keep my eyes open for a decent professional one as I have work with power electronics suppliers if you like.
The problem will be noise.
Thermoelectric peltier would be a lot quieter though not as electrically efficient as a full compressor, and you wouldn't get a freezer compartment very easily, guess you will have thought about that.
For a fridge though perfectly fine. Good ones are still worth paying well over £100 for, pulling around 100W, and will cool a well insulated space very well.
 
i looked into peltier tech years back, played with it and made some interesting things due to its inefficiency (constant duty cycle and high wattage) though it puts me off them. the compressor i am looking at uses 60 watts and depending on how good you insulate the cool space can remain off for a long time. i can get a DC compressor in most voltages, 12,24,36, and 48 volts. the 48v is because its what the UPS uses.
though not very efficient, i have a DC-DC boost that can take the 12v and make 48v. right up to 40 amps given the 12v side can handle it.i mean whats that.. thats like 160 amps at full draw haha. well given all the solar i am putting on this thing, it should only be needed as a float charge pushing a max of 15 amps into the 48v battery bank. though that would be a hefty 60 amps being drawn from the 12v side. ill have to make it so when the headlights are on it kills the power to the charging system. ill admit that i do not know the alternators current output.


due to "legalities" i had a plan of running a refrigerant line from the low pressure side of the vans (soon to have) aircon system to the fridge system its self with a valve able to isolate the 2 systems. legally speaking then it will be part of the vehicles aircon system that can be "topped up" by a user with no certificate or training needed. i will however also have a top up point on the refrigerator unit in the back too. theres always ways to get around rules and regs.


heres the video:

 
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I’m my experience and I do have a fair amount from helping my brother out converting vans from time to time, this is all sounding far too complicated. Fitting aircon is definitely a good idea for a leisure vehicle, makes for a much more comfortable camping trip. But in a micro-camper there is usually only one person. You really don’t need a big fridge you can easily install a 12v leisure battery with a split charging circuit and solar panels on the roof, that would provide ample power for a little 12v pettier fridge or something like a waeco compressor fridge, both being designed for camping and both designed to be whisper quiet.

Then you need a bed and some storage for all your camping odds and sods. Some sort of cooker and some sort of sink. Many people in micro campers build little pull out units that you can use beside the van or in an awning. Others build everything into the van. One thing you have yet to encounter is weight and space, if you start trying to fit some huge custom built fridge with external pipework and dc-dc bucks for 48v systems and running lights on 12v systems, having water and cooler and sink and waste water and all your stuff stored as well as camping kit, you have to wonder where you will find space to sleep.

The reason most campers use the same set up of batter, split charge relay, solar, and a cheap little fridge is because they work and they are tried and tested set ups, fitting a dedicated 48v system just to run a fridge is totally unnecessary, complicated, risky from a wiring perspective and using an old UPS is Basically an load of old lead acid batteries joined in series, just take one big lead acid battery and have a more reliable set up.

Obviously you are free to do it however you want but my presumption is you want to get it finished at some point and you want to have something you can use that doesn’t weigh as much as the Bismarck and will still accelerate and steer and again a presumption but something that will have space to camp and sleep.

Realistically most people build the bed first and then slot in everything around it, working out what they need as they go, a fridge is not the most important this and shouldn’t really be dictating huge modifications just to fit it. If you’re only going out for a night or a couple of nights then you’ll rarely need anything more than a little Peltier fridge for some milk and bacon
 
the 48v was purely down to the UPS i wanted to have a mains 13 amp supply in the van. i have to admit that i am thinking of doing away with it for a smaller 24v 700 watt supply. would half the amp draw.. and be more easy for solar cells to keep a high voltage on. i could still be making 150v from the solar array but because its 24v and not 48v, in low light i will still be making above 24v where as if its a really rainy dark day the array may only produce 50v which would not be enough for a 48v system as most need battery voltage +5 volts so it charges.

most of my lighting is 24v too. the higher the voltage, the less heat is made where voltage drop happens ;)

i could still also work it so that the 24v 700w ups i have would still be the main filter system for power when on electric hook up would be nice if i could find one with a built in AVR so i get a nice stable mains voltage at all times... (dont ask)

well i already burned out my 48v water pump so i guess a 24v conversion would work in my favour.. shame ive already bought and modified a server PSU to be a 48v to 12v (@ 163 amps) voltage converter.

if i could make a sound recording i would let you hear what i sleep with. its a montage of 5 server fans 2 of have really bad bearings. i pretty much sleep through any noise.. and i already have a mini compressor fridge and freezer in my room haha

i have some mental electrical redesigning to do...
 
the 48v was purely down to the UPS i wanted to have a mains 13 amp supply in the van.

Two things to consider with that is,
1. How long does the UPS last on battery power especially at 13Amps.

From my experience with UPSesses back in the late 90's early 2000's you might get a few minutes to make sure you have time to shut things down, depending on what you run off it. Also unless you are running a washing machine off it, then you're never going to need a 13 amp supply, speaking of which 13 amp at 240 volts is going to draw ~62Amps even at 48volts which is going to draw a lot of heat and kill the batteries very quickly.

2. you can easily fit an inverter for not a lot of money to provide power to anything that does need a 240V supply, but once you start camping its unlikely you will have much that does need a 240v supply. something like a laptop uses about 2amps but then you can get a car charger for most models, virtually everything else these days runs off a 5V usb or only actually uses 12 volts if meant for automotive use.
If using camp sites then you can fit an electrical hook up for £45, pair that with a battery charger and that can charge your leisure battery when parked up or charge off solar.

Its only a little van, so space and weight are going to be major hurdles to over come if you go mad fitting lots of random kit. A leisure battery, Split-charge relay, solar charge controller battery charger and 240v hookup can all be fitted neatly in a corner or under a bed.

While you have the dash out its a great opportunity to put a very large gauge live wire in from the engine battery live through to the back of the van (make it longer than the van so you have spare cable for routing) then fuse it at both ends. This can then be connected up to any second battery you have to charge that, and you can make a very nice well protected and sealed hole in the bulkhead to route it, The fusing at both ends is to prevent any fires if the cable gets damaged in anyway and grounds out on the chassis of the van.

Also look at getting something like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Car-...423721?hash=item4dadfb84e9:g:Mb8AAOSwsrBev7Zh

Perfect for powering phone chargers and other USB devices and a good quality socket for anything running off a 12V car lead.
 
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ahh yes i already have loads of modified USB ports to use. most of those USB ports take a direct 12v input but i really do not like that. the DC dropper circuit is usually not that great and susceptible to external interference causing the 5v on each unit to fluctuate. i will be using a single 40 amp 5v supply and running a dedicated 5v open ring around the whole van. 40 amps is a bit high but the supply i built is pretty efficient and made very over engineered.

note i am not having any windows in this van so it will all be LED lit. i will mostly be using the "Jansjö" lights found at ikea as they are one of the most efficient LEDs i have come across that takes a direct 5v. (4.9v yet only using 9mA, i am using one now as my main desk light!)
i will also be running a digital RGBNW (SK6812 144led per meter) strip and a strip of 24v high CRI LED strip too too around the roof of the van. to be used when i need lots of light.

i have a plan on using the leisure system to also run external lighting, should i need it. they are all 24v

a lot of the power cables and other things are going to be ran under the van. i am building this not just for camping in but it is also going to be a mobile radio shack so i have to have everything earthed and filtered to reduce all RF noise. all of the wiring will be military grade using a lot of nato plugs and switch. its why i wanted the 48v system again as a lot of my radio gear is made for 48v. however i can modify it all to run lower

ive already made a laptop charger to run from the 48v system, wont take much to convert it to 24v but i will have to changed out all of the filtration capacitors. sigh.

space should not be an issue.. i have it all worked out.. i think...
 
well cut a long story short i have had the box out, replaced the flywheel and clutch i have it all together and tried to start it but nothing, just cranking.
so i get the code reader out (hello darkness my old friend, ive come to talk with you again) and sadly i am getting the dreaded P0230 "Fuel Pump Primary Circuit" fault code in the ECU.

this sux.

this sux for a few reasons as i have just put the front back on.
hmm well i tried the red fuel cut out button and sure enough it was tripped so i pressed it in and was damn sure that was going to be the end of my issues. sadly the same fault code persists. however the fuel system now primes when the key is turned.

i must have somehow damaged the wiring on the high pressure fuel pump on the engine. no idea how though as i have not touched any of the engines wiring.

hmm so i need to figure this out :/
 
My understanding is the code you have relates to the ecu controlled solenoid part of the fuel pump relay. Wierd because it is now working.
Check crank position sensor.

You will find problem , you just never give up . Good man


Jack
 
OK so.

the issue has been fixed. the new flywheel has timing lobes that are too tall for the CPS.. causing the CPS to rub on it. fixed it by packing out the CPS with some washers. and there we go, a running engine!
i did have to clean the magnet fragments from the flywheel though








heres a few more pictures of various fixed and being fixed bits of the van











alarm wiring.. fun




this is the AC compressor i have. its pretty nice as its a variable displacement compressor



this is the rather nasty looking very moisture saturated oil that was in it :/



draining the old oil



hey look its me, and the compressor now home.




have been making a few videos on this project too.. heres the latest 2



 
so this.



i really need to lock the socket set away.

i though for what it takes, ill just completely take off the rear axle. its a rather easy job if you can get your brake pipes off. i hate "crimping" brake flexi hoses but i thought with me replacing them, like it matters. hand brake is a pain to disconnect as you have to undo the 10mm adjusting nut all the way off on the shorter cable to get it off.
Abs sensors are pretty easy.

just ordered myself some bushes, cant seems to get bushes for the anti sway(?) bar, the bar that sits above the rear axle.
my one is pretty rusted and the small bushes at each end are pretty rough.

heres why the axle came off. so i could get under i and clean before treating and painting









theres a video on its way too!
 
alright. so heres the pictures of the rust protected finish.

all i can say is its not a very pleasant job chipping, wire brushing and filing away all of the rust.

so i pretty much got everywhere i could back to shiny metal. i then painted everything with a paint that has a built in rust converter and inhibitor (2x coats). i then went over the paint after a few days of drying with a thick brush on underseal. theres a few cavities in that area too that you can get the dynax tube in and give it a good internal coating. stop and prevent any bastard rust in its tracks.














i have the rear axle kinda back in now. i spent most of today cleaning up the coil springs and those 2x bars that slot in above the rear axle. both really rusty. then just cleaning up other bits on the rear axle and painting. this job is 90% waiting for paint to dry and 10% doing the work.

while i was waiting for paint to dry i decided to wire in door pin switches on the rear doors for my newly fitted alarm. now my alarm knows if a back door has been opened. this is good for 2 reasons.. 1, the obvious theft factor. 2, the alarm has an auto lock feature, so if you unlock the vehicle and never open a door it will auto lock the vehicle after a while. all well and good till you unlock the van, throw your keys in the back, the alarm does not know a door has been opened then locks the van via central locking.... then keys locked in back of van... thankfully that will never happen now. phew.

thats all for now...
 
so a few days ago in my local scrap yard a dispatch van came in... which had a full after market bulkhead in it. no curves all angles.

all well and good but my van was not on the road.. i still had it up on ramps, with all the brakes disconnected and all of the hand brake components hanging up from yesterdays de-rust and paint-a-thon that i was doing. so hit the ground running when i woke up this morning and checked my facebook to see my local scrappers had this van in.

yesterday i managed to wire brush and de-rust the whole length from wheel to wheel on the drivers side, then repaint rust patches with metal paint (with built in rust converter). it was all dry by this morning so i undersealed the lot then set to rebuilding the hand brake. when that was done i changed the rear brake flexi pipes then bled the brakes.. it was getting on for 3pm by this time and the scrap yard closed at 4pm so the test drive for the van was going to the scrap yard to get the bulkhead..

and it worked flawlessly.

it felt so good. great engine power, nice suspension, corners lovely. real nice.



called into costco on the way back home. :D

its a shame the van i got the bulkhead was scrapped to be fair. it needed rust repairs but all seemed pretty easy work. just the outer sill needed cutting out and a new bit welding in. the van started and drove quite nice. brakes needed changing on the back as the handbrake was a bit strange maybe stuck adjusters. had the DW8 engine. sadly i dont think they would sell the whole van cheap though. for a car its a minimum of £500.

though i have had some absolute cracking cars from this scrap yard in the past as we all know ;)


so this is the bulkhead. its pretty beefy! kinda a shame that i am going to cut it up a bit for what i have designed.. but oh well..



so the plan is to make it so the drivers seat can fold flat, so i can get access from the back into the front by dropping the seat back should i need to (because i am too lazy to get out and walk around to the drivers door haha)

now i just need to get it in here.. hmm.


 
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Yuletide Blessings to you all on this rather overcast midwinters day.




well i have not done much since the last update. i have however upgraded the speakers which is quite nice it also has a nice android head unit.

heres how they have been installed. quite nice with the little crossover box hidden behind the door card to make it all neat.






when was the last time you saw a Gismo air freshener?! :D

still working on that bulkhead.. i tell you its been in and out of the van more times.. sigh. i just hope all the new brackets i have welded to it all align up to the bolt holes...

till next time!
 
Been having a little bit of fun..

so i am pretty disappointed with how the lights preform.. high beam is pretty good but low beams are just bad.

so i bought some brand new headlights. not to fit to the van, but to modify.

so this happened..



then this



to give a end result something like this




and as i know someone out there in the future will want to also do this, i made a kinda how too video.



when i can, i will take the bumper off and fit the new lights. some wiring relay adaptors or modification is needed to run bi-xenon type lighting however.
just waiting on the wiring adaptors and the engine under tray.. do all the jobs in one go :D


till next time!
 
MOT pass with the new lights! they look awesome too!



After finding out that the tyres i have on the van are only 56MPH rated with no load indicator.. combined with the fact they are about worn out and have no grip..

i bought some new ones. probibly the best van tyres you can buy.. and yes i did pay for them. only 2 for now, i will have to wait till next month to buy some for the other axle.





bit overkill.. but should last well.
 
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