General Interior removal

[OzMoSiS]

need to strip the interior of my stilo to go ahead with audio installation.

any tips / guides on removing the seats, and side panels (3door).

basically need to gut the whole thing, carpets and all

 

[Sparky1483]

need to strip the interior of my stilo to go ahead with audio installation.

any tips / guides on removing the seats, and side panels (3door).

basically need to gut the whole thing, carpets and all

side and door are easy mate, just be very careful when pulling, they crack and break easily.

done the rear seats to, torque screws, big uns, and fook me are they tight:bang::bang:

 

[coyle]

what sort of intsall you doin mate? sounds like a big un

 

[volxstu]

That sounds a bit over the top i have run O gauge without having to gut the whole thing and there is a guide for fitting back speakers.

 

[OzMoSiS]

its not that big, its just comprehensive, and i want to do it good. the stripping but is to lay sound deadening throughout the whole car. OAWG has already been run, but theres still all the speaker cables from the HU to be routed to the processor in the boot and more speaker cables to be run from there back to each speaker.

i've pretty much built the false floor today, will get pics up soon.

there are 3 amps, 1 processor, 2 subs, a 3F capacitor, and an Xbox media centre to go into the boot.

ohhhh the fun!

 

[volxstu]

its not that big, its just comprehensive, and i want to do it good. the stripping but is to lay sound deadening throughout the whole car. OAWG has already been run, but theres still all the speaker cables from the HU to be routed to the processor in the boot and more speaker cables to be run from there back to each speaker.

i've pretty much built the false floor today, will get pics up soon.

there are 3 amps, 1 processor, 2 subs, a 3F capacitor, and an Xbox media centre to go into the boot.

ohhhh the fun!

What subs do you have surely you would be better using one large one with the right airspace rather than two.
If you are intent on using two are you bridging the amps together and running a lower load resistance to maximise efficiency

Oh please show me a link to the processor i really need to look into one of these to connect to my computer.

Why waste money on the cap you would have been better off doing the big three.

Let us know how the sound deadening go's i have refrained from doing it yet because the car is pretty tight. Obviously i will do the smaller speakers in the doors and the boot possibly. Where did you get it from cos i will need some soon.

 

[Morty Mort]

I'd skip the cap. But for sound quality I'd rather go for a pair of high quality 10" subs rather than one 15" (which will "boom" more). Anyway, the area of both alternatives are about the same...

I had two 10" subs in the Uno earlier which produced much higher audio quality than one 15". They were driven by the Phoenix Gold amp I now have in the Stilo. Unfortunately I blew one of the 10" to pieces while I bridged the amp to test that particular speaker. Well, 350 good old Phoenix Gold watts into 4 ohms was a bit too much... The situation is the same today, so I'm just waiting for it to say adios, and buy a higher quality sub.

Anyway, I think the seats are a couple of big bolts and some clips underneath - then a straight pullout. You will most likely save a lot of time later by using some time removing the interior now.

M.

Morten.

 

[Sparky1483]

Anyway, I think the seats are a couple of big bolts and some clips underneath - then a straight pullout. You will most likely save a lot of time later by using some time removing the interior now.

M.

Morten.

not on my 3 door it aint

lots of big bolts then the seats go everywhere when you take em ut:bang:

less weight was good for performance though

 

[OzMoSiS]

with regards to the equipment, it has already been purchased. some of it even before i got the car. so if i've got it, i might as well use it.

the cap is soley to be used as a fancy distribution block.

volxstu, equipment list is as follows:

DLS Ultimate A3 --> Polk MMC6500 components (front)
Genesis P2 --> Polk MMC650 co-axial (rear)
DLS Ultimate A6 --> 2x 12" RE SE12
Processor --> Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 (this was needed as im using the CN+)
and an Xbox media centre with 500GB for fun

Volx, that processor is AMAZING! you can control it with a windows mobile pocket pc via bluetooth!, its a wee bit pricey though

sound deadening will be MaxMat pro and some closed cell accoustic foam.
theres a second battery going in the wheel well with the cap, and thats an Optima Yellow top split charged with the front battery.

Morten, if i could go back in time, i'd do a LOT of things differently, nevermind just the car audio

but we live and learn

 

[OzMoSiS]

If you are intent on using two are you bridging the amps together and running a lower load resistance to maximise efficiency

the subs are powered with the DLS A6, which supplies them with a clean 1200W RMS at 1ohm

so thats a clean 600W RMS a piece, and is exactly what they are rated at, although the RE SE series has been known to take a LOT more.

Why waste money on the cap you would have been better off doing the big three.

in the process

 

[Morty Mort]

the subs are powered with the DLS A6, which supplies them with a clean 1200W RMS at 1ohm

What? 1200 watts RMS and still stable into 1 ohm load. That's pretty impressive.

 

[volxstu]

What? 1200 watts RMS and still stable into 1 ohm load. That's pretty impressive.

Hmm not seen the A6 but DLS is absolutely brilliant quality for an analogue amp i can vouch for that as i have the A7.

 

[OzMoSiS]

:yuck:

gotta tell you though, the person who invented the pop clip is a complete baboon!

ended up with a couple of bits of broken trim :bang:

 

[chicken_chau_mein]

I'm just curious to know if you ever got your install done... And any pictures too would be great...