It is.
The main body loom is different to allow the sub & anp to plug in, also the speakers are slightly better on the Interscope equipped cars & the software in the head unit allows for more adjustment.
General Installation of Blaupunkt sub Thb200a = Interscope?
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General Installation of Blaupunkt sub Thb200a = Interscope?
It is.
The main body loom is different to allow the sub & anp to plug in, also the speakers are slightly better on the Interscope equipped cars & the software in the head unit allows for more adjustment.
I'm also guessing you just "T" into the speaker wires, with something like scotch locks
Looks like I'll be fitting the sub tonight & if time allows the speakers too, bought 6.5" Infinity Reference components.
Let us know how you get on Mark.
The more detail the better!!!
K
The more detail the better!!!
K
OK, so here goes.
Remove the plastic sill covers, there is screw at each end (posi drive) then a sharp (but carefull) upwards tug.
The reamove the centre console (the bit in front & beind the handbrake) by removing the nuts (10mm) under the rubber cup holder liners & the two screws (torx head) at the leading edge (carefull to unplug the cigarette lighter & the Blue & Me plug)
Loosen the rear bolts on the seat runners & remove the front bolts completly (allen head screws).
Feed the R/H speaker pickup wires (grey/ggrey & black out into the right hand loom run (I have left these disconncted at the moment as I cannot find what wires are the R/H speaker wires, but the bass is normally non stereo anyway & the manual says this is OK to do)
Then you should be able to pass the wires through the hole in the carpet where the drivers seat wiring goes & along the cross member.
Connect the two red wires into the wire the goes into the cigarette lighter (grey/red wire) the run the L/H speaker pickup wires (white/white & black) & the earth wires (black) right across the car to the L/H side.
T into the yellow (+) with the white wire from the sub, and into the yellow/black (-) with the white & black wire from the sub.
Finally connect into the earthing point at the front of the door aperture that will be clearly visable (10mm nut), I used a 6mm crimp on connector.
Then locat the sub under the drivers seat with some hook velcro pads to stop it sliding aroung & plug in the check the function.
If it all works it's time to but your 500 back together again
. Being carefull that the wires are running behind the seat runner pickups & are not being pinched as you tighten the seats up again.
Remove the plastic sill covers, there is screw at each end (posi drive) then a sharp (but carefull) upwards tug.
The reamove the centre console (the bit in front & beind the handbrake) by removing the nuts (10mm) under the rubber cup holder liners & the two screws (torx head) at the leading edge (carefull to unplug the cigarette lighter & the Blue & Me plug)
Loosen the rear bolts on the seat runners & remove the front bolts completly (allen head screws).
Feed the R/H speaker pickup wires (grey/ggrey & black out into the right hand loom run (I have left these disconncted at the moment as I cannot find what wires are the R/H speaker wires, but the bass is normally non stereo anyway & the manual says this is OK to do)
Then you should be able to pass the wires through the hole in the carpet where the drivers seat wiring goes & along the cross member.
Connect the two red wires into the wire the goes into the cigarette lighter (grey/red wire) the run the L/H speaker pickup wires (white/white & black) & the earth wires (black) right across the car to the L/H side.
T into the yellow (+) with the white wire from the sub, and into the yellow/black (-) with the white & black wire from the sub.
Finally connect into the earthing point at the front of the door aperture that will be clearly visable (10mm nut), I used a 6mm crimp on connector.
Then locat the sub under the drivers seat with some hook velcro pads to stop it sliding aroung & plug in the check the function.
If it all works it's time to but your 500 back together again
. Being carefull that the wires are running behind the seat runner pickups & are not being pinched as you tighten the seats up again.I'll just add my experience of this as I have just come in from fitting this sub (23:45 )
Sub's under drivers seat. I fed all wires bar the (R) + and - wires through a pre cut slit in the carpet that must be there for the people that order interscope.
Most of what the other guys have said I agree with. Theres 1 bolt under the rear cup holder liner and a further 2 bolts under the forward cup holder. Theres two torx screws on the front of the centre console that also need to be removed.
A note on removing the wires from the Blue&me and cig lighter. Pull the blue and me socket upwards and remove the connector. The cig connector needs to be removed from underneath before you lift the console away.
The colour of the wires on the left loom is ORANGE and ORANGE/BLACK. I think Mark got confuesed and wrote yellow/yellow black instead.
I used scotch locks for a more, less permenant solution. Just remember to press these hard with pliers to make connection on the wires.
Thanks to the other 2 guys who told of their experience as I wouldn't of attempted this without their guides.
If anyone finds out the right rear speaker wire colours then please let me know. I presume it will involve someone taking off the right rear panel and seeing what colour wires go into that speaker.
Kieran
)Sub's under drivers seat. I fed all wires bar the (R) + and - wires through a pre cut slit in the carpet that must be there for the people that order interscope.
Most of what the other guys have said I agree with. Theres 1 bolt under the rear cup holder liner and a further 2 bolts under the forward cup holder. Theres two torx screws on the front of the centre console that also need to be removed.
A note on removing the wires from the Blue&me and cig lighter. Pull the blue and me socket upwards and remove the connector. The cig connector needs to be removed from underneath before you lift the console away.
The colour of the wires on the left loom is ORANGE and ORANGE/BLACK. I think Mark got confuesed and wrote yellow/yellow black instead.
I used scotch locks for a more, less permenant solution. Just remember to press these hard with pliers to make connection on the wires.
Thanks to the other 2 guys who told of their experience as I wouldn't of attempted this without their guides.
If anyone finds out the right rear speaker wire colours then please let me know. I presume it will involve someone taking off the right rear panel and seeing what colour wires go into that speaker.
Kieran
Oops, you are right, I was thinking about front speakers too at the time & got confused.
The front left speakers are yellow/yellow & black.
Sorry for digging up an old thread.
I am about to get a Blaupunkt EMB 800A sub (can't post URLs yet..), and wondering how to connect it to the head unit. As it has two hi-inputs it should be connected with two channels in the back of the unit (i.e. left & right rear), but should it be connected alone to those channels or can it work pararelly with the speakers? And will it have enough signal power to work properly and not use too much of it for the speakers?
I am about to get a Blaupunkt EMB 800A sub (can't post URLs yet..), and wondering how to connect it to the head unit. As it has two hi-inputs it should be connected with two channels in the back of the unit (i.e. left & right rear), but should it be connected alone to those channels or can it work pararelly with the speakers? And will it have enough signal power to work properly and not use too much of it for the speakers?
I'd think again about buying that item if I were you, and consider one of these: http://www.bluespot.co.uk/car-audio.aspx/tha555-amplifier
These can be fitted with a dedicated wiring loom which clips into the back of your stereo - so no need to cut wires. The wiring kit you need is listed as a Panda part, but suits the 500 perfectly (and many others, too). It'll provide increased output to all of your speakers, so you will benefit from upgrades if you wish to go that bit further, plus run 200w RMS to a subwoofer (400w max).
I'm running one of these units at the moment - the amp fits under the passenger seat (even with the storage type seats). I've fitted Hertz component speakers to the front doors, and a small boxed 8" Hertz subwoofer in the boot (Hertz is a very good Italian speaker manufacturer). As I'm running a subwoofer I've run a dedicated power feed and earth cable to the amp too, but you'd need to do this with the unit you're looking at in any case.
I appreciate this'll cost you a fair bit more, but the unit you're looking at is really not great. the output (75w rms) is very low, and may not provide what you're looking for.
Thanks for the advice. That would be nice, but it costs 3 times more than the whole sub, and I'm not having anything near that whole of money for just one component. I'm not looking for some monster basses, just something that would help the two Helix sets (62.1 & 6.1) already fitted in replacement of the stock speakers.
So I am still staying with the question how to fit the EMB 800A.
So I am still staying with the question how to fit the EMB 800A.
In that case, take a look at this for speaker wire info: http://www.nexxia.co.uk/More_Information/ISO_wiring.htm
However, don't hold me responsible for any problems you may experience tapping into the wires, particularly as it's very tight behind the 500's stereo - you will have trouble using a soldering iron in such a small space. You may be able to locate the rear speaker wires as they run along the sills (I believe another thread contains these details) but again I am taking no responsibility for any errors made.
Bare in mind that you'll also need a hole in the bulkhead for the power cable. There are very few already available - there's one above the passenger's footwell, but on my model it was already occupied - sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't.
You could try going through the main loom's huge grommet, situated behind the wiper panel, but be EXTREMELY careful - one slip, or boring in slightly too much, could well end up in a damaged wiring loom.
If you're not entirely sure I recommend you pay a professional to do this work. However, to be honest with you a far better alternative would be to buy purpose made equipment in the first place, as I suggested above.
For those who are concerned, I accept no blame for any errors that may arise in the fitting of subwoofers etc, and am not taking any sort of responsibility for errors made during the time of fitting, or after that date. The above is provided for information only. My recommendation is that if anybody is unsure about this sort of thing either pay a professional to do it or not bother at all.
Why would you need to get behind the radio for the speaker wires (I'm assuming this is for the sub signal input).
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Because that's the easiest way to get to a pair of channels, which is what you need for the active subwoofer in question. It's also the professional way of doing things, rather than hacking into the loom along the sills, as it's easily tracable. If any problems occur in the future, when the car has been passed on to others, how are they supposed to know that you've hacked in at some obscure point along the sills?
Oh, and don't use scotch locks either -they may work initially, but they're bound to give problems eventually
Hacked in? Who mentioned "hacking"
How about if you cut, soldered & carefully insulated.
There's more than one way to skin a cat.
How about if you cut, soldered & carefully insulated.
There's more than one way to skin a cat.
It's bad practice to take the feed from anywhere other than behind the stereo, for the reasons already mentioned. It may seem the easiest way to do things, particularly when fitting an under-seat unit like yours, but I wouldn't recommend it.
I also have issues with your suggestion to take a feed for your type of small subwoofer unit from the cigar lighter's feed. You are correct in saying that the lighter unit provides enough amps, but as soon as you plug something with a large draw into the cigar lighter you'll be very marginal indeed. It is accepted practice to run a fused feed directly to the battery. In my opinion the method you suggested is potentially dangerous
Why, the feed is fused. But lets face it, it's clear I'm an idiot.
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So you like to blow fuses? I can see no logic in that.
If you wish to recommend that sort of practice so be it. Personally, I'd avoid it. There's absolutely no reason why anyone shouldn't run a fused feed directly from the battery. This is the safe, accepted, industry-wide way of doing things. It ensures that the feed is fully capable of supplying the current required, is covered by a fuse of sufficient ampage and looks far more professional to boot.
Well all I can say is after two years of owning a 500 with the sub installed as I said I have not blown a fuse, or for that matter been electrocuted.....to death.
