Technical injection system red light

[rockabillygilly]

can any one help i was driving along fine then all of a sudden the dash light came on i lost power but car still got me home? what causes this ????????????:bang:

ps i own a multipla 1.9 diesel

 

[pete123]

Prob means cylinder 4 is not working time for a injector change u can sorce a whole rail for around 40 quid and any DIY person can fit them if not they r 80 fitted by fiat being a guess or r u saying its gone in to limp mode witch limits the revs and speed what does light look like

 

[rockabillygilly]

Prob means cylinder 4 is not working time for a injector change u can sorce a whole rail for around 40 quid and any DIY person can fit them if not they r 80 fitted by fiat being a guess or r u saying its gone in to limp mode witch limits the revs and speed what does light look like

Hi pete yes its gone into limp mode the light looks like a spraying injector

thanks

 

[momoe]

Pete, why the No. 4 cylinder injector?

If there's an engine management light showing, there should be a diagnostic code to be read. I'd get the code read and go from there.

 

[pete123]

Over the years I've ha injectors go a few times and needles to say when my injectors go and others should no it is always number 4 its like it is a common injector to go. And I've been reading it all wrong it's a 1.9 d just used my nozzle and checked I see its in limp sorry about that ???????

 

[Darth Bas]

Over the years I've ha injectors go a few times and needles to say when my injectors go and others should no it is always number 4 its like it is a common injector to go. And I've been reading it all wrong it's a 1.9 d just used my nozzle and checked I see its in limp sorry about that ???????

Hello guys! I'm a newbie here from the Netherlands. I own 2 Multipla's, both 1.6 petrol.
One has the same light coming on. But only when the engine is warmed up a bit, and you start it again, i.e after shopping. When it's still cold, no problem. When i turn it of and start again, its starts to run erratically and the light comes on. Also the injector?
I had one occasion where i had to drive for some distance, and after 10 minutes it went out again and the car was running fine al the way home?
Disconnect battery to reset system? Injection cleaner?
Thanks in advance!

 

[rockabillygilly]

had it plug into computer today and came up air flow metre so at least i can get it sorted now thanks

 

[momoe]

Darth and Rockabillygilly,

You need to get the codes read, this will help you narrow down the problem.

There are various sensors/conditions that can cause limp mode and a process of elimination takes a long time, especially when you're communicating via the forum!

Any OBDII reader that can read KW2000 protocol should be good or you can use MultiEcuScan (shareware) and a VAGCOM interface cable on a laptop. VAGCOM interface cables are available on Ebay for around £10-12.

 

[rockabillygilly]

Darth and Rockabillygilly,

You need to get the codes read, this will help you narrow down the problem.

There are various sensors/conditions that can cause limp mode and a process of elimination takes a long time, especially when you're communicating via the forum!

Any OBDII reader that can read KW2000 protocol should be good or you can use MultiEcuScan (shareware) and a VAGCOM interface cable on a laptop. VAGCOM interface cables are available on Ebay for around £10-12.

if you read my last post momoe ive had it on a computer today and its the airflow meter

 

[rockabillygilly]

Right the light is back on and now gone back into limp mode when i had it pluged in came up with air flow so replaced the airflow meter and was fine now back on today and wont go off any ideas as soon as its sorted its going cost me way yo much money

 

[QinteQ]

- limp mode in my Chrysler is 1100RPM and bottom gear automatic
- limp in the the Multi you can still get 40MPH in a manual gear box
- check the little white plug fix .. .. in #13 & 14 .. .. it just may be it

 

[momoe]

Rockabilly, last posts crossed but moving on.

Can you advise what the error was because there are two airflow sensors (MAF and MAP), MAF doesn't normally give errors although it can if parameters are way out.
MAP which measures the air pressure at the manifold is normally the one which causes limp mode, this is only secured by a single torx bolt - It's to the left of the EGR assembly on the manifold.
You could try cleaning it out but new units are about £35 so cheap (compared to the MAF).

 

[rockabillygilly]

Rockabilly, last posts crossed but moving on.

Can you advise what the error was because there are two airflow sensors (MAF and MAP), MAF doesn't normally give errors although it can if parameters are way out.
MAP which measures the air pressure at the manifold is normally the one which causes limp mode, this is only secured by a single torx bolt - It's to the left of the EGR assembly on the manifold.
You could try cleaning it out but new units are about £35 so cheap (compared to the MAF).

all i was told was the airflow meter so i changed the one thats attaches to the air box cost £70.00 and the red light went off then all of a sudden its back on and am limited to 40mph ive got another guy due out to plug it in again so will let you know what other codes come up

 

[rockabillygilly]

well had it plugged in today and came up with the following things so the car is is going as im fed up of spending on it

map sensor
egr
p0220 pedal position sensor
glow plug heating device
ui600 electronic key

 

[pete123]

Momoe is the best one for this these r all related in one way or the other and they ain't hard jobs do u have manual on disc

 

[momoe]

Rockabilly,
MAP already discussed.
EGR can be blanked, car will probably run better although you may need to clean it first so that the EGR valve doesn't stick.
P0220 is probably the throttle potentiometer (basically, an electronic device that tells the ECU how much throttle your giving it), this is normally down to a bad connection on a white plastic connector behind the centre console trim.
Plenty of posts on this, and I think Qinteq posted up some pictures.
Glow plugs, don't worry about - unless the temperature drops to -10 or more you don't need them.
ui600 is new on me, however I'm wondering if this is the key code fault that is occasionally seen, behind the ECU trim there is a small wiring loom with a small red relay on the end. There should be a duplicate in the engine fuse compartment on the N/S suspension tower behind the battery, swap these and see if the fault disappears.