I have a Fiat Ducato motorhome: 2.2litre 100bhp, 2007. I drove it 300 miles from North Yorkshire to a campsite near Canterbury (stopping a couple of times en route and also achieving 35.4mpg). Next morning it refused to start. The engine was turning over but never fired. Battery has plenty of life in it. I called out the AA and the patrolman diagnosed a fault with the immobiliser as the warning light was on. He was unable to cure it and so we were relayed home. Does anyone know of how to fix this?
Technical immobiliser
- Thread starter RonnieK
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Technical immobiliser
Water/wiring issues behind the nearside headlight are quite common. Did the AA retrieve any error codes?
No the AA did not find any error codes. He did not have any diagnostic equipment. Don't think water behind nearside headlight had anything to do with it as, although we drove through a bit of rain, it was nothing more than any other journey.
dazid1
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My van did the same thing on thr services near Bristol a cpuple of years ago the every morning it would take up to 10 attempts until hr lamp went out. The funny thing was it was always ok at home. I ended up going for the cheaper option of changing the aerial, it clips around the key hole under the plastic casing and plugs into the imobaliser ecu under the dash. It cured mine no probs since. Mine is an older van though a 1997 with the red key so I don;t know what year they changed, or if they have changed.
yes but have you checked the wiring there? Cant believe AA had no diag equipment, don't they want to) fix cars these days
Earlier models had a code immobiliser box, yours is inbuilt to the body computer however the body computer has to receive the correct code (response) from the ECU...if it doesn't it puts the light on. The fact it is intermittent would still lead me to a wiring rather than component fault. Obviously without seeing the vehicle it is hard to be tell and I would be using diag equipment to monitor 'data' to see what is and what is not responding. I would still be looking be looking behind that headlight just purely from experience.
Hi. I know this may seem strange, but try adjusting the steering wheel. I've tried this after a couple of non-starts and the warning light has went out and let me start van. Obviously I have a broken wire or bad connection but haven't had time to check further yet.
Hi. Thanks for your tip about the wiring behind the headlight as this does seem to be where the problem was! I cut open the wiring harness, examined all the cables and found three suspect ones, pulled them tight and they snapped. I stripped the ends and twisted them back together; the key light (immobiliser) then went out and it starts every time. Have now put the wiring harness back together. Thanks again.
Your very welcome
Re: immobiliser key flashing but no central locking working,
Hi I'm new to fiat, I have got a 56 plate Ducato van, the key fob is flashing but the cental locking is making noise nor working, I place the key into the drivers door and only that doors locks, should even this method lock all the doors spas I truncated the key, I need help, please.
Hi I'm new to fiat, I have got a 56 plate Ducato van, the key fob is flashing but the cental locking is making noise nor working, I place the key into the drivers door and only that doors locks, should even this method lock all the doors spas I truncated the key, I need help, please.
Toukolanttu
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I have the same car (Jumper/Relay) and similar problem except:
I have the key with remote: works always.
And a key without remote. This key is the problem. If I try first to start the engine, immobilisier light stays on. And starter is turning but not start engine.
If I use the remote key and only turn to ignition and take the key off and now change to the key with problem: now it will work perfect! Strange..
I have the key with remote: works always.
And a key without remote. This key is the problem. If I try first to start the engine, immobilisier light stays on. And starter is turning but not start engine.
If I use the remote key and only turn to ignition and take the key off and now change to the key with problem: now it will work perfect! Strange..
That would suggest the passive chip that is scanned by the immobiliser coil is located in the remote rather than being moulded into the key. Try holding the remote close to the ignition lock barrel whilst trying to start with the non-remote key.
Toukolanttu
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I used my Lexia 3 to check the problem. BSI-module gave fault code 9003: key cancelled.
It would be easy to reprogram the cancelled key but I dont have that "Citroen-card" which has numbers to use in Lexia reprogramming
It would be easy to reprogram the cancelled key but I dont have that "Citroen-card" which has numbers to use in Lexia reprogramming
I used my Lexia 3 to check the problem. BSI-module gave fault code 9003: key cancelled.
It would be easy to reprogram the cancelled key but I dont have that "Citroen-card" which has numbers to use in Lexia reprogramming
Do you only have one key? You can order the code card from the dealer.
You might be as well off getting an autolocksmith as they will be able to read the pin code for you and reprogram the bsi if its corrupted.
Toukolanttu
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The "key cancelled" can not be reprogrammed
I bought my car from a dealer and they will get me a new key for free
I bought my car from a dealer and they will get me a new key for free
K333fer
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What your are doing when you key on with the remote key and then put the other key is called "piggybacking" basically your putting the non functioning key in before the info has reset . As stated a good auto locksmith can sort you a key .
