Panda Ignition Switch

Currently reading:
Panda Ignition Switch

cheers (y)

we are making progress

the switch is operated by little ramps on two small plastic disc on the back of the ignition barrel

not sure how we are going to test that these are working correctly yet. Its not a straight forward on and on again as you crank the starter it cuts some power to some electrics so the starter gets more

leave it with me a few minutes
 
i read it as

with the key out


If you measure from a body earth to each pin only one will read 12V probably the middle of a row of three pins
 

Attachments

  • temp.png
    temp.png
    83.3 KB · Views: 54
Last edited:
koalar, apologies as I didn't realize there was a second page to the thread. I turn on the Panda and pull the cables from the ignition and the Panda turned off.

Edit: the Panda turned off but everything still works just the same as me turning the ignition off with my key and everything still staying on.
 
If the ignition switch is unplugged and everything is off then its the switch that's fauly
Luigi

not necessarily

The switch is operated by two plastic cams on the back of the ignition barrel

Seeing as a new switch has the same fault. We need to find a way of testing

so far we have effectively cut the 5 wires by removing the switch

but it could still be

the switch
the barrel
the plastic cams


my gut is the grease between the discs has dried up and the two discs have stuck together


as taking these discs out is worse than taking a gearbox out i would leave this until the barrel has been proved to be faulty as there is still a very small possibility of the second switch is a fail on fit


I have taken two apart. there's no visibility. The discs have no markings on the so it not obvious which way up they go and they have slot in the return spring as well. One took about 1/2 hour of trying the second only took a few minutes its just pot luck

not to mention the danger of removing the switch which isnt really designed to come off and very easy to break the lugs
 
If the ignition switch is unplugged and everything is off then its the switch that's fauly
Luigi


The Panda turned off when I unplugged the ignition but everything still works. It did it with bot ignition switches.
 
Last edited:
It is not very clear but I think op means when switch unplugged engine stopped running but fault remains.
 
Last edited:
ah i see theres an update


what is the voltage on each of the pins on the disconnect connector ?


I don't have a volt meter right now. I am in the process of borrowing one or buying one. Is hard to find one as everything is closed in Germany except Grocery stores and pharmacies. The military store on the base don't sell meters. Will update you once I am able to get one.
 
I don't have a volt meter right now. I am in the process of borrowing one or buying one. Is hard to find one as everything is closed in Germany except Grocery stores and pharmacies. The military store on the base don't sell meters. Will update you once I am able to get one.

Thanks for the update


here in the UK we have some bargain shops that have a DIY section that sell a cheap bright yellow multi meter. There not great but do the job for a couple of quid

as you are only looking 12V you could rig something with a 12V bulb
 
any more info on where to look ?
I just unwrapped the tape around the loom, as I was moving the loom the dash lights were going on and off, so it was quite easy to find the broken wire, then I soldered it and taped it back up.
 
I just unwrapped the tape around the loom, as I was moving the loom the dash lights were going on and off, so it was quite easy to find the broken wire, then I soldered it and taped it back up.

was the dash staying on with the ignition switched off and key removed ??
 
was the dash staying on with the ignition switched off and key removed ??
Yes, I had actually got out the car with the key in my hand, and as I was closing the door, realised all the dash lights were still on.
 
I don't have a volt meter right now. I am in the process of borrowing one or buying one. Is hard to find one as everything is closed in Germany except Grocery stores and pharmacies. The military store on the base don't sell meters. Will update you once I am able to get one.

Car batteries act as a surge suppressor so you don't need anything fancy for diagnosing low system voltage. One of these is adequate. It's not got the refresh rate of a professional Fluke meter and it not calibrated but it's good enough for what you need.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=402439134697&_sacat=0
 
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Thanks for the update


here in the UK we have some bargain shops that have a DIY section that sell a cheap bright yellow multi meter. There not great but do the job for a couple of quid

as you are only looking 12V you could rig something with a 12V bulb

I was able to buy one in Aldi's. I tested the wires behind the switch and is getting 12.45 volts with the car off. I plugged the battery and didn't even put the key in the switch since it works normal. Once you move the key to try and start the car that is when is acting up.

In other word, if I unplug the battery and plug it back up it is normal. Once I turn the key to crank the car, that is when the issue starts.
 
I just unwrapped the tape around the loom, as I was moving the loom the dash lights were going on and off, so it was quite easy to find the broken wire, then I soldered it and taped it back up.

Where was the broken wire at? Right at the fuse box in the engine compartment? I am going to try this and just have my wife inside the car to see if it goes off. Thank you for giving me another option to try.

I will continue to try anything and hopefully something will work. :eek:
 
pretty much the only wire that could break is from the indicator stalk as its moved up and down. Does fail on other fiats and normal leads to the lights not being able to switch off. Which is slightly similar
 
Back
Top