T cuts good 
you just need an electric mop to make it all easy XD
you just need an electric mop to make it all easy XD
how to use t-cut
- Thread starter Brooky
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how to use t-cut
tommypope
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T cuts good
you just need an electric mop to make it all easy XD
ok.....t-cut or anything like that shouldnt be used all the time as you will end up down to bare metal in a month..
G3 gives a good finish
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G3 is abbrasive like t-cut so that applies also If all you want to do is get a bit of shine and your paintwork isn't screwed then a polish like Autoglyms Super Resin Polish is more than sufficient since it has very little abrasives.
If all you want to do is get a bit of shine and your paintwork isn't screwed then a polish like Autoglyms Super Resin Polish is more than sufficient since it has very little abrasives.
maharg null
New member
The best way to use T cut is to open the dustbin and lower it in.
Get yourself some Autoglym Super Resin Polish and at least 2 microfibe cloths, wash the car thoroughtly and not wish washing up liquid and give yourself a couple of hours to polish the car. Dont do it on a sunny day. Apply the polish all over the car and take your time, leave it to cure for an hour and then polish off. the result should be excellent.
T cut is ok for polishing the silencer, nothing more
Get yourself some Autoglym Super Resin Polish and at least 2 microfibe cloths, wash the car thoroughtly and not wish washing up liquid and give yourself a couple of hours to polish the car. Dont do it on a sunny day. Apply the polish all over the car and take your time, leave it to cure for an hour and then polish off. the result should be excellent.
T cut is ok for polishing the silencer, nothing more
T-Cut isn't a polish.
It's a cutting agent.
It's a cutting agent.
Use standard T-Cut for badly oxidised and non clear coat/ non metallic finishes. Use Metallic T-Cut for clear coat finishes. Simple!
As has been mentioned, T-Cut is only as good as the application. Use it in the wrong conditions and the wrong way and you'll make a mess. Use it too much and you'll go down to the primer. Don't use a decent polish afterwards and the paint will oxidise again. Most people also don't really read the instructions as it's supposed to be applied with a damp cloth rather than a dry one. It makes the job much easier.
I've used T-Cut with a lot of success. See pics below of my old Uno that had badly oxidised red paintwork that just needed a good going over with T-Cut and some ancient Turtle Wax Super Shine polish I found lying around (had to be at least 10 years old!) Took a lot of work to get it as shiny as it is, but the shine seems to have lasted well for a 21 year old red car
As has been mentioned, T-Cut is only as good as the application. Use it in the wrong conditions and the wrong way and you'll make a mess. Use it too much and you'll go down to the primer. Don't use a decent polish afterwards and the paint will oxidise again. Most people also don't really read the instructions as it's supposed to be applied with a damp cloth rather than a dry one. It makes the job much easier.
I've used T-Cut with a lot of success. See pics below of my old Uno that had badly oxidised red paintwork that just needed a good going over with T-Cut and some ancient Turtle Wax Super Shine polish I found lying around (had to be at least 10 years old!) Took a lot of work to get it as shiny as it is, but the shine seems to have lasted well for a 21 year old red car
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SRP is still abrasive same as T-cut just less so - its all down to the effort that you put in - most people do not use cutting compounds properly and unfortunately expect good results from very little work. the quality of your paintwork is all down to the work and effort and detail put in to getting good results! Unfortunately there seems to be a lot of bo11ocks spouted by people who have no real idea what they're doing. There are a lot of good products out there but some of them are fast becoming more like fashion items - it is possible to get a fabulous finish from the cheapest materials if your willing to put the effort in!
as for the above - SRP is mild cutting compound - the results come from the effort in application - nothing to do with leaving it to cure.
Jug and Dawes have the right idea - clay , polish then wax to seal - its not rocket science - it's reading the instructions and putting the time and effort in.
1986uno45s - fabulous results from basic materials - it just proves that you don't need to spend a fortune on whatever products are trendy to get good results.
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I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with restoring faded paintwork on the body coloured bumpers with t-cut or anything similar.
I've got an 03 plate Punto in red (got to be the worst colour for fading) and have been a bit lazy in looking after it. I wash it, but have never polished or waxed it and now i'm paying the price :bang:. The coloured bumpers have started to fade and i've tried t-cut, but no joy. Didn't know how much i was supposed to work at it though.
I rang a valet place that does paint renovation and things, but they said that they wouldn't be able to do anything with the bumpers. He said i could use a heat gun and that may bring the shine back, but at the risk of melting my bumpers i'm not going to try that one. It didn't make any sense to me as it's the same paint, but just on plastic rather than metal.
Any advice is much appreciated.
I've got an 03 plate Punto in red (got to be the worst colour for fading) and have been a bit lazy in looking after it. I wash it, but have never polished or waxed it and now i'm paying the price :bang:. The coloured bumpers have started to fade and i've tried t-cut, but no joy. Didn't know how much i was supposed to work at it though.
I rang a valet place that does paint renovation and things, but they said that they wouldn't be able to do anything with the bumpers. He said i could use a heat gun and that may bring the shine back, but at the risk of melting my bumpers i'm not going to try that one. It didn't make any sense to me as it's the same paint, but just on plastic rather than metal.
Any advice is much appreciated.
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he only said that because he didnt realise you meant painted bumpers!
get a cotton cloth (asda sell a roll of it in the car section that is ideal for this job), some red t-cut, and prepare to get a sore elbow. rub the t-cut in using the cloth in circular motions. for the first stage rub fairly hard, spend 20mins on each bumper. next stage rub less hard and in quicker motions to buff out the minor scratches that you made during stage1, again for 20mins per bumper. then it will be scratch free, the same colour red as when it was new, and ready to wax, then you're done.
then he is an idiot, the heat gun trick only works on unpainted plastic.
FLEMING no1
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one of my frends used t-cut on his hole car ones it looked realy nice for a few days but then it went realy dull. i red some where that t-cut just eats through the top paint layer of pant to bring up the nice shiny stuff but then it also eats through the clear coat. i never use t-cut or any thing i just get out the buffing set and get going with some hot sopy water. brings it up realy nice and cleans the car
You read wrong that is complete bull****, it doesn't eat clearcoat, probably spun by someone selling something similar to t-cut in an expensive tub.
t cut does wear out clear coat as does any cutting compound, and hot water also destroys it and will make it peal off
Just some pointers..
1, T cut is not always recommended by bodyshop pro's as it has a high ammonia content. Not brilliant for water base paint types. Farecla is the preffered option.
2, Technically polish is a very mild rubbing compound (cutting agent). Wax is a top coat.
3, When paint really fades the Laquer is usually non existant anyway hence the fading. You are cutting straight into the paint, look at the colour left on your rubbing cloth.
4, compounding a car is fine just dont do it too regular. I have used 2000 wet and dry followed by compound polishing before and brings a new finish. Don't recommend this though!!
5, Compound paste is liquid sandpaper.
6, I personally see no reason why not to use Tcut on 2Pack paint types. I however prefer Farecla but hey, thats just me.
1, T cut is not always recommended by bodyshop pro's as it has a high ammonia content. Not brilliant for water base paint types. Farecla is the preffered option.
2, Technically polish is a very mild rubbing compound (cutting agent). Wax is a top coat.
3, When paint really fades the Laquer is usually non existant anyway hence the fading. You are cutting straight into the paint, look at the colour left on your rubbing cloth.
4, compounding a car is fine just dont do it too regular. I have used 2000 wet and dry followed by compound polishing before and brings a new finish. Don't recommend this though!!
5, Compound paste is liquid sandpaper.
6, I personally see no reason why not to use Tcut on 2Pack paint types. I however prefer Farecla but hey, thats just me.
Any ideas the ratios between G10 and rubbing complex and water, I just dont wanna messup
Thankies :slayer:
Thankies :slayer:
ratio's? just guess work. lol when i did it, i dipped cloth in water, put on g10, then a tiny squirt of the harsh rubbing compound, im sure theres better way to do it, but it didnt cost me much and worked brilliant.
unless its that bad id just use g10.
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Sweet!
I will try that on the weekend
:slayer:
I will try that on the weekend
:slayer:
just keep it wet, a flower or ironing spray bottle is good to use
